Not Charging

[bmaverick]

Recalling back and checking into my Chrg. light problem there was several ways to setup these Yanmars. The Org. YM series,Rice patty tractors was hard on the Elec. Sys.. When digging in deep of my dash and Fuse panel I found out this to be true. Both VR. Old Mech. style still up in the Dash and the New SS attached around the Stering column. Found the bad connecton and then curiousity had me check the old one. Works fine!! So now I have both and then seeing my Alt. is actually 12V 35Amp. Which is Huge for my needs. No wonder My old battery lasted so long. Only 550cca. New 700cca now. Cold start is Minimal for the oil light to come on. I was actually shocked looking at the parts book. My Alt. is AL-1235 35Amp. and seen the next common Alt. is a AL-1215. It was much smaller at only 15Amp. and on the 2020 that was just mentioned is listed for it. That much smaller seemed odd.

Did a look up on the AL-1235. 12V 35A

A Yanmar Marine distributor has these too.

Alternator for Yanmar Marine

Used on 1GM, 1GM10, 2GM, 2GMF, 2QM15, 2QM20Y, 3GM, 3GMF,

12 Volt 35 AMP, without 2 pin regulator connector. (RM0060 with Connector)

Replaces Yanmar: 128170-77200, 128170-77201, 128170-77202

Replaces Hitachi: LR135-74, LR135-74B

RM0084

Some of these were also Denso back in the day. Long before American car companies dual sourced parts, Japan had done that decades earlier.

Iseki Tractor 3AF1BL,TE3210,TI1900,TL2100,TL2300,TL2500,TL2700,TU1700, TU1900,TU2100 12V/35A​

Replacing:​

Hitachi LR135-95B LR135-95 LR135-91 LR135-86F LR135-86C LR135-86B LR135-86 LR135-74B LR135-74​

Iseki 6581-200-349 6581-200-338​

Isuzu 8944237560 8941717780 5812003411 5812003381 5812003380 5812003281 5001810100​

Massey Ferguson 3282883M91​

Mazda H612-18-300 GE01-18-300A GE01-18-300 F851-18-300 D501-18-300 D401-18-300A D401-18-300 4828-18-300​

Mitsubishi A1T33277 A1T31699 A1T31685 A1T31377 A1T31374 A1T25097 A1T25087 A1T25083 A1T25077 A1T23377​

Nissan 34468-28200 34468-18200 23100-91109​

Yanmar 128270-77201 128270-77200 128171-77200 124080-77201 121400-77201​

Servicing: Mazda​

B+ M5, Grooves 1, Pulley P, Fan EF A: 41.85 B: 13.50 C: 81.65 mm​

MUSTANG
SKID STEER LOADERS
920 96-89 Yanmar 3TN72 Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
930 89-88 Yanmar 3TN82E Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
930A 96-89 Yanmar 3TN82E Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
940 96-88 Yanmar 4TN82E Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097

YANMAR
ENGINES
1GM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060
2GM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060
2T72HL 92-84 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
3GM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060
3HM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060

 

[careyo63]

Did a look up on the AL-1235. 12V 35A

A Yanmar Marine distributor has these too.

Alternator for Yanmar Marine

Used on 1GM, 1GM10, 2GM, 2GMF, 2QM15, 2QM20Y, 3GM, 3GMF,

12 Volt 35 AMP, without 2 pin regulator connector. (RM0060 with Connector)

Replaces Yanmar: 128170-77200, 128170-77201, 128170-77202

Replaces Hitachi: LR135-74, LR135-74B

RM0084

Some of these were also Denso back in the day. Long before American car companies dual sourced parts, Japan had done that decades earlier.

View attachment 715716

Iseki Tractor 3AF1BL,TE3210,TI1900,TL2100,TL2300,TL2500,TL2700,TU1700, TU1900,TU2100 12V/35A​

Replacing:​

Hitachi LR135-95B LR135-95 LR135-91 LR135-86F LR135-86C LR135-86B LR135-86 LR135-74B LR135-74​

Iseki 6581-200-349 6581-200-338​

Isuzu 8944237560 8941717780 5812003411 5812003381 5812003380 5812003281 5001810100​

Massey Ferguson 3282883M91​

Mazda H612-18-300 GE01-18-300A GE01-18-300 F851-18-300 D501-18-300 D401-18-300A D401-18-300 4828-18-300​

Mitsubishi A1T33277 A1T31699 A1T31685 A1T31377 A1T31374 A1T25097 A1T25087 A1T25083 A1T25077 A1T23377​

Nissan 34468-28200 34468-18200 23100-91109​

Yanmar 128270-77201 128270-77200 128171-77200 124080-77201 121400-77201​

Servicing: Mazda​

B+ M5, Grooves 1, Pulley P, Fan EF A: 41.85 B: 13.50 C: 81.65 mm​

MUSTANG
SKID STEER LOADERS
920 96-89 Yanmar 3TN72 Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
930 89-88 Yanmar 3TN82E Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
930A 96-89 Yanmar 3TN82E Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
940 96-88 Yanmar 4TN82E Dsl Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097

YANMAR
ENGINES
1GM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060
2GM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060
2T72HL 92-84 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-91 AHI0097
3GM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060
3HM 84-82 All Hitachi System HI 35 12 LR135-105 AHI0060

AL-1235 . Fredricks #'s What I noticed was the 2210 and that reminded me that it was the 2020 that just came up and it was odd for such a smaller Alt.. You have a search down pat! I only have Two things to worry about. F-250 and the Yanmar anymore thank goodness. I'm sure someone may need atleast 1 of those #. The Mazda interesting reminded me of a RX-7 I owned 1st.Yr. Factory Carb. Gave that car to the wifey. She scooted around town for yrs. in it. 2 seater and kids she finally had to give it up. The Rotary would turn some RPM's no doubt.. Quick!!

 

[Williy]

But the price is over $200 when the auto
parts store could be less than $50

willy

 

[bmaverick]

But the price is over $200 when the auto
parts store could be less than $50

willy

Wasn't too worried about prices. I wanted the cross reference numbers. Then go to the auto store.

 

[Scotty Dive]

For some crazy reason, the damn thing started charging again. The only thing that happened was I tried to get some readings from the two outputs. I did take a probe and accidently touched both and got a small spark and after that it started charging again. will call Hoye and talk to them about the proper measurements it should be putting out. BTW, the proper part number for my application in a YM2020 is a 121450-77200. There no way an alternator from a datsun will fit in there. This dynamo is tiny

 

[Williy]

If you ever need one this guy sells for $69.26 with
free shipping Alternator for Yanmar PMA 12 Volt 15 Amp Permanen Magnet 121450-77200; APM0013

It looks rather small

willy

 

[rScotty]

I believe they are different regulators. The 186 has a dynamo.

Old tractors had DC generators - the kinds with a commutator & brushes.
Most new engines since about the mid 1970s use an alternator of one sort or another.
What are you calling a dynamo?

 

[bmaverick]

Soooooo, with this DYNAMO can the Yanmars UPGRADE from the 15A to the 20A version ???

John Deere 990 Alternator - MIA10338

John Deere 990 Alternator for sale, MIA10338. This permanent magnet alternator (Dynamo) is an externally regulated 12V, 20 Amp, Kuksan Denki Type. It is used on John Deere 670, 770, 790, 870, 970, 990, 1070 and 4610 Compact Tractors. It also has applications in John Deere lawn and garden...

www.yesterdaystractors.com

Description: This permanent magnet alternator (Dynamo) is an externally regulated 12V, 20 Amp, Kuksan Denki Type. It is used on John Deere 670, 770, 790, 870, 970, 990, 1070 and 4610 Compact Tractors. It also has applications in John Deere lawn and garden products. It replaces original part numbers; SE501822, SE501843, AM877557, AM876055, AM877050, AM879144, MIA10338
Alternator Part Number MIA10338

The question is the cross reference and mounting holes. hmmm

A whooooping 5 more AMPS !!!

 

[bmaverick]

Found these Deere p/n too for a 12VDC 35Amp version !

 

[ponytug]

Congratulations on getting it running!

If it is a dynamo with brushes, shorting the wires may have "arc cleaned" the brushes/commutators. I don't know this model, but if it is serviceable, I would consider lightly cleaning the brushes and commutators. Fine emery paper is all that you need.

FWIW: A second thought. I would also consider sanding the mounting holes / bracket to make sure that you are getting a good ground. Ditto the negative cable on the battery and the voltage regulator mounting/ground. I have found lots of electrical gremlins that were traced back to poor grounds due to rust, corrosion, and loose screws. For the major ones; the mounting bracket, battery ground, I put a thin film of copper dielectric grease on. (Fix once, and forget school of mechanics)

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

Spent a few hours today with the YM2610 in the garage. It's a rare Christmas Eve day to hit 51F here.

So, took off the VR. Amazing how the YM2610 looks great on the outside and due to rodents under the dash, it's ugly.

So this is the 'original' VR right from the Yanmar factory. It lasted from 1981 till now. Hitachi hasn't made these things in decades. Hitachi logo and TL1Z-86E 12V 912 on the top decal.

Inside is clean and super nice. However the 6 mechanical reed contacts have oxidization and I had to free them up from sticking.

The bottom contacts were way dirtier at first. I cleaned it up a bit here.

So, this is the MECHANICAL VR-550. It's about 5x5x6 in size.

After all the clean up, it still wouldn't work right.

I went to price them around from Hoye, Fredrick's, Weavers, etc. STICKER shock.

Then I found it at All States Ag Sales that caters to Japan tractor owners too. 1/2 the price. I thought wow, that is super. Yet, at the near bottom of the listing foe the VR-550, thy shared another link to the ALL SOLID STATE version. So, I peeked to see how much more it would be.
AMAZING - ONLY - - $18.

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/new-denso-026000-2121-ford-sba185516030-113988.html

It's in the cart tonight. Looking at other items right now as well.

 

[Williy]

I have found the easiest way to check to
see if you system is charging using volt
meter red wire on plus side of battery and
the black wire on ground then start engine
if the output is not between 13 & 14 volts
system is not charging

willy

 

[careyo63]

Had to replace the battery in Jan.. Org. lasted yrs. that was in it. It's still good and just Chk. it and sat a yr, 11.98.......lol. When it gets cold the weather was to much for the Yanmar Cold Start Thermo Etc...... Went through the Reg. problem when I bought it and got it home. They thought that was the problem. Voltage Reg. dash light would Randomly ficker. Drove me crazy. It was Charging which I checked like Williy does. Ended up being the Voltage Reg. wiring. Bad loose connection!! Fuse panel. So I have Both Regularors. Solid state from Fredricks around the Steering shaft and the Org. Mechanical still in the dash that works!!! Big plus This was a rice patty unit not much doubt about that. But everything still works and operates like it should. I'm about to roll the Hr. Tach. 012 when I bought it. Now 900's. This is what it looked like not long after I bought it while I had the Pics. out. Merry Christmas!!! everyone here on TBN........

 

[bmaverick]

Had to replace the battery in Jan.. Org. lasted yrs. that was in it. It's still good and just Chk. it and sat a yr, 11.98.......lol. When it gets cold the weather was to much for the Yanmar Cold Start Thermo Etc...... Went through the Reg. problem when I bought it and got it home. They thought that was the problem. Voltage Reg. dash light would Randomly ficker. Drove me crazy. It was Charging which I checked like Williy does. Ended up being the Voltage Reg. wiring. Bad loose connection!! Fuse panel. So I have Both Regularors. Solid state from Fredricks around the Steering shaft and the Org. Mechanical still in the dash that works!!! Big plus This was a rice patty unit not much doubt about that. But everything still works and operates like it should. I'm about to roll the Hr. Tach. 012 when I bought it. Now 900's. This is what it looked like not long after I bought it while I had the Pics. out. Merry Christmas!!! everyone here on TBN........

Like you, I too cleaned all the contacts and the connections hoping the old manual VR would come back functioning. Why buy a replacement if you can simply fix what you got and not toss into the landfill ?

I was very careful NOT to get the 'fish paper' soaked in the cleaner. Fish Paper is old school talk of saying Electrical Paper for insulation. That paper wrap protects the coiled winding of those solenoids/relays. Any or all petroleum products will 'melt' or strip away the thin coating on the wire coil windings making the solenoid/relay to completely short out.

@Williy Yes, I too used a volt meter, however it only tells 25% of what's going on. There is so much more to test with other methods. Even with our simple YM tractors with alternators or even dyno generators, it's still involved. With your machine, it's even more difficult due to computer controls and various sensors in the loop.

I took this close up in case others wanted to know how 1970s - 1990s technology works. LOL

Look at all those parts and what manual labor it takes to put this together ($75 retail) vs. a solid state version ($18). A solid state 'should be' 1/4 the cost of what the manual device like this really is. All States Ag wins for their honest pricing in the industry on the VR-550-SS device.

With a solid state device, a simple IC chip can distinguish how the system works, thus the solid state device can replace MANY VR manual models in a catalog. Thus, the solid state VR-550 and VR734 can be combined into the same unit covering many more machines like the Ford Shabarura, Kubota, Himimoto and Mitsubishi made machines too.

 

[bmaverick]

Had to replace the battery in Jan.. Org. lasted yrs. that was in it. It's still good and just Chk. it and sat a yr, 11.98.......lol. When it gets cold the weather was to much for the Yanmar Cold Start Thermo Etc...... Went through the Reg. problem when I bought it and got it home. They thought that was the problem. Voltage Reg. dash light would Randomly ficker. Drove me crazy. It was Charging which I checked like Williy does. Ended up being the Voltage Reg. wiring. Bad loose connection!! Fuse panel. So I have Both Regularors. Solid state from Fredricks around the Steering shaft and the Org. Mechanical still in the dash that works!!! Big plus This was a rice patty unit not much doubt about that. But everything still works and operates like it should. I'm about to roll the Hr. Tach. 012 when I bought it. Now 900's. This is what it looked like not long after I bought it while I had the Pics. out. Merry Christmas!!! everyone here on TBN........

BTW, did you find taking those screws/nuts off of the VR was a pain? Because my YM2610 had the original VR from the factory, those were in there for many years. The pain was finding the right tool combination to get a grip on them under the sheetmetal and then to loosen the nuts. The outside one was simple with a bottle jack. The inside was vice-grips and carefully taking the nut off. Why the Phillips round smooth head was used for underneath is a big question. I replaced them with brass M6 bolts and nuts. Not wanting to have issues way later.

 

[careyo63]

Somebody else threw the parts at it. I just plugged it back in. It was a hard find being intermittent but I finally caused the light to come on. It was Tech. charging so Steve @ Spalding may have put the New style Reg. in it esp. being that long ago and to even get it. Checking my fuses for my work light and I hit the wire at the back of the Fuse panel and the dash light flashed. This time instead of just check to see it was tight I pulled it and cleaned them. Walla!!! that was it.

 

[bmaverick]

Like you, I too cleaned all the contacts and the connections hoping the old manual VR would come back functioning. Why buy a replacement if you can simply fix what you got and not toss into the landfill ?

I was very careful NOT to get the 'fish paper' soaked in the cleaner. Fish Paper is old school talk of saying Electrical Paper for insulation. That paper wrap protects the coiled winding of those solenoids/relays. Any or all petroleum products will 'melt' or strip away the thin coating on the wire coil windings making the solenoid/relay to completely short out.

@Williy Yes, I too used a volt meter, however it only tells 25% of what's going on. There is so much more to test with other methods. Even with our simple YM tractors with alternators or even dyno generators, it's still involved. With your machine, it's even more difficult due to computer controls and various sensors in the loop.

View attachment 726444


I took this close up in case others wanted to know how 1970s - 1990s technology works. LOL

Look at all those parts and what manual labor it takes to put this together ($75 retail) vs. a solid state version ($18). A solid state 'should be' 1/4 the cost of what the manual device like this really is. All States Ag wins for their honest pricing in the industry on the VR-550-SS device.

With a solid state device, a simple IC chip can distinguish how the system works, thus the solid state device can replace MANY VR manual models in a catalog. Thus, the solid state VR-550 and VR734 can be combined into the same unit covering many more machines like the Ford Shabarura, Kubota, Himimoto and Mitsubishi made machines too.

View attachment 726445

Oh what joy. Christmas gifts for the Yanny arrived today.

All States Ag Parts (ASAP) delivery came early.

And I picked up a SPARE Thermostart for a mere $10. Fits Ford Shabarura <sp?>, Yanmars, Kubotas,Hinomotos, and some Mitsubishi's too. All the same thread size, wattage and screw wire mount on the spade.

Temps are in the low 20s, so not fun and play with Yanny this week. Friday 35F and then to the MINUS temps. So, I only have a few hours on Friday to hustle.

 

[ponytug]

Great score on the Thermo start! I hope that the new regulator fixes everything for you.

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

Great score on the Thermo start! I hope that the new regulator fixes everything for you.

All the best,

Peter

It did not warm up like it was planned, so I did not get the chance to swap in the new VR. I've topped off the battery and ready for winter as if the VR wasn't coming till Spring. All still should be fine.

Winter now is only 6 to 8 weeks right. LOL Just got to grin and bear this heat wave of global warming eh?

 

[bmaverick]

I really can't believe it's been since last December. Today, I snagged a great price on one of the few available alternators. To my surprise, it was at a box chain store. Its the same price as RockAuto.com but no shipping costs.

Both the alternator and the VR from a 1971-1973 Datsun (Nissan) 1200 1.2L, 4DR sedan work on my machine. These can also be found on the 650 pickup and the GMC LUV truck. Subaru had these up to 1978. Then when all the emission junk was added, VRs became common to be with the alternator.