NX4510 and NX5010 pricing and review

[Threepoint]

Here in No. VA I've never had a gelling problem, knock on wood. But sustained temps in the teens are infrequent, and perhaps the diesel suppliers are good about the winter blending. This winter is my first with the Final Tier 4 Kioti, and so far so good. Eric, thanks for posting the link to the PDF from the Filter Manufacturers Council. Some of it I knew, some I didn't, but a great refresher for anyone.

Question, since we're off on this tangent. I have 5 gallons of regular kerosene that's been sitting in its obligatory blue plastic fuel can for 15-16 yrs! I have no current need for it and none of my neighbors do either, so it's just taking up space in the tractor garage. Would it be o.k. to mix it in gradually with the diesel for my 20-yr old Kubota B2150, which has been evicted to the unheated barn to make room for my new Kioti? If so, what mixing ratio would likely be safe? The 6 gals of diesel presently in the B2150 is straight dyed no. 2 fuel oil, so not a winter blend. Again, so far no gelling issue in that tractor either, but 20F is the coldest I've run it so far this year.

 

[TJP89]

I don't put any anti-gell in my tractor diesel, and have had no trouble with the Tier III CK in the 0F temps around me lately.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Here in No. VA I've never had a gelling problem, knock on wood. But sustained temps in the teens are infrequent, and perhaps the diesel suppliers are good about the winter blending. This winter is my first with the Final Tier 4 Kioti, and so far so good. Eric, thanks for posting the link to the PDF from the Filter Manufacturers Council. Some of it I knew, some I didn't, but a great refresher for anyone.

Question, since we're off on this tangent. I have 5 gallons of regular kerosene that's been sitting in its obligatory blue plastic fuel can for 15-16 yrs! I have no current need for it and none of my neighbors do either, so it's just taking up space in the tractor garage. Would it be o.k. to mix it in gradually with the diesel for my 20-yr old Kubota B2150, which has been evicted to the unheated barn to make room for my new Kioti? If so, what mixing ratio would likely be safe? The 6 gals of diesel presently in the B2150 is straight dyed no. 2 fuel oil, so not a winter blend. Again, so far no gelling issue in that tractor either, but 20F is the coldest I've run it so far this year.

Get a can of map gas. Pour a five foot long line of kerosene down your dirt or gravel driveway. Light the ancient kerosene on fire. Ew and Ah. It'll burn forever.

Alternatively, roll two large speakers out of your garage wired into your McIntosh Hi-Fi, get a can of map gas, pour the kerosene out in a large circle, light the venerable kerosene on fire and play covers of Jimi Hendrix' song "Fire" very loud, and then lay down 20 feet from the fire ring pointing away. When the police come to question you about it, just say, "Wow man, all I see is orange!" Make sure to video it. :thumbsup:

Failing that idea, send me your five gallons of kerosene and we'll come up with something rocket themed and video it.

You can try cutting the venerable kerosene with fresh diesel say 5%, but I've heard that the shelf life of kerosene and diesel is about 12 months and so I wouldn't waste time adding a wee bit to the old tractor's diesel.

 

[94BULLITT]

In cold areas gas stations switch over as temperatures change with their weekly fill up, but if you have a tractor with fuel sitting around since summer, that fuel is diesel #2. The way you make that fuel work in colder temperatures is cutting with diesel #1 or use kerosene, adding anti-waxing additives, and adding deicers so that any water in the fuel, stays liquid. 20-50% diesel #1 blends are normal for winterized fuels (50% should be good down to -40 degrees F). Diesel #1 makes less heat and less power and so the more diesel #2 is diluted with diesel #1, the less heat the engine generates and the less power the fuel makes, and frankly the less lubrication the fuel offers to the fuel pump. As a result, people cover up diesel radiators as needed to help the engine build heat in cold places.

Why not buy a quality #2 fuel that is blended for winter? If you live in or colder climate you can add an antigel additive. Then you will not have a power loss or the engine will not run colder like it does when you use #1.

Here in No. VA I've never had a gelling problem, knock on wood. But sustained temps in the teens are infrequent, and perhaps the diesel suppliers are good about the winter blending.

Remember last winter? It was colder here than what it was in parts of Alaska.

 

[DeanFM]

Looks like a few of you posting to this thread have NX4510's here in the Northern VA area. I am considering the NX4510 alongside the NX5010 (both HST/Cab), but there are none nearby to test. My Kubota L3240 looses nearly all groundspeed when mowing uphill, and I have a lot of it. Our property is 90% hillside pasture, much of it at 15 degree slope. Anybody with similar topology care to comment if the 45HP version is enough power for your application (or mine)?

Also, who was your Kioti dealer? I found one in Frederick MD, but they don't have any stock at the moment.

Thanks!
Dean

 

[Strike1905]

Good day Dean.

I previously had a small spread, (38 acres), on the southern edge of the Bluegrass where only about 10% was slopped at 15 +
Had the Kioti DK45HST and it was fine on that operationg a bushhog, small square baler, disc cutter, minor operations like that.
Also I just set the creep and enjoyed my seat time.

I have just purchased a small spread (39 acres), just on the northern edge of the bluegrass.
Difference is approximately 60% is probably at a 15 degrees +, (with some areas steep enough that I have already decided to let it go back to nature, it is just are not worth the risk).
Plan to buy a tiltmeter, do bushogging on the steeper parts, the couple of level parts I will resume the small bailing operation.
In plans to get a DK50HST with delivery in March, (yeah! Seat time!), feel that will easily cover my need for what I plan to do.
Most of the dealers I have been talking to in the KY, OH, IN, & IL area seem to have the NXs in stock.

So maybe, I guess my question is what do you plan to do with the tractor/land?

 

[Threepoint]

Dean -

I don't mow with my NX4510HST, but if you're going to be doing a lot of rotary cutting up 15 degree slopes for hours at a time, I think you'd appreciate the NX5010HST for around $2000 more. Maybe even look at the NX5510HST. A few months after you take delivery you won't even think about the difference in price. All three models will get the job done. You'll just be able to do it a bit faster with the higher hp. BTW, all three are virtually identical tractors except for the fuel delivery setup. (Not the case with the next model up, the NX6010HST). I've always heard that, as a general rule, horsepower differences are more noticeable when running pto equipment.

I bought my Kioti last Spring from Todd Freeman at Tractor Hill Equipment in Mineral, VA. It's nearly a 100-mile run down there for me, but I'd do it again in a minute. Todd owns the dealership with his father-in-law. I've been very impressed with their operation, and Todd strikes me as very honest and reliable. They usually have a pretty good inventory of Kiotis, so I'd sure give him a call. Spend a little time with him and I think you'll see why I think so highly of him.

 

[TSO]

I think you should just step up to the NX6010. No regrets down the road with more HP.

 

[MichiganIron]

It's all about the fuel, and having it treated properly. We have had more gelling issues with the older CK and DK Tractors than we have with the NX and RX Tractors. Along with that, we have been more diligent on treating the fuel in the newer tractors. Use winter blend, and a good fuel treatment and you don't have to have the fuel heater. KIOTI sells tractors all over the world, not everyone wakes up to -18 like we have been. Having a fuel heater is an option. There are more owners that have no use for one than owners that are going to need it. If you are pricing a machine for global sales, you aren't going to put a fuel heater on every tractor.

We stock the fuel heaters, haven't sold one yet, haven't needed to. We just make sure the fuel is winter blend and properly treated.

Our Duramax delivery truck is another issue. The DEF freezes. Haven't yet figured that one out.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

It's all about the fuel, and having it treated properly. We have had more gelling issues with the older CK and DK Tractors than we have with the NX and RX Tractors. Along with that, we have been more diligent on treating the fuel in the newer tractors. Use winter blend, and a good fuel treatment and you don't have to have the fuel heater. KIOTI sells tractors all over the world, not everyone wakes up to -18 like we have been. Having a fuel heater is an option. There are more owners that have no use for one than owners that are going to need it. If you are pricing a machine for global sales, you aren't going to put a fuel heater on every tractor.

We stock the fuel heaters, haven't sold one yet, haven't needed to. We just make sure the fuel is winter blend and properly treated.

Our Duramax delivery truck is another issue. The DEF freezes. Haven't yet figured that one out.

In tank heating element.

BTW, I changed out my NX6010 thermostat from the stock 160, to a 185 to shorten warm-up times. So far so good, but I have not tried it out in the heat of the summer.

 

[TJP89]

BTW, I changed out my NX6010 thermostat from the stock 160, to a 185 to shorten warm-up times. So far so good, but I have not tried it out in the heat of the summer.

Eric, MN doesn't get enough heat to really test that for real summer temps. Take it down to TX, preferably the Houston area, and if it works in the 100F+ heat and 80% humidity, then it is truly all temperature

 

[95ram]

Not sure where you're at but most of July and August is 90*+ with 90%+ humidity here in lakes country of MN.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, MN doesn't get enough heat to really test that for real summer temps. Take it down to TX, preferably the Houston area, and if it works in the 100F+ heat and 80% humidity, then it is truly all temperature

You'd think that, but counter-intuitively, Minnesota, when the temperature and heat index are considered with an 88 due point, has irregularly been the hottest place on the planet (poor Morehead). Anyway, we usually don't get out of the nineties, but we have so many lakes, that a humid fog settles in that can move our "feels like" temps silly high.

Minnesota, hottest place on earth: "Heat Storm" (record-setting dew point of 82 at MSP, heat index tied all-time record at 119!) | Paul Douglas on Weather | StarTribune.com (Morehead hit 133.5 degrees that same day).

And you can see without an ocean, how Minnesota usually pegs out the due point meter higher than your neck of the woods with so many lakes.

 

[94BULLITT]

Minnesota has more coastline than any other state

 

[TJP89]

You'd think that, but counter-intuitively, Minnesota, when the temperature and heat index are considered with an 88 due point, has irregularly been the hottest place on the planet (poor Morehead). Anyway, we usually don't get out of the nineties, but we have so many lakes, that a humid fog settles in that can move our "feels like" temps silly high.

Minnesota, hottest place on earth: "Heat Storm" (record-setting dew point of 82 at MSP, heat index tied all-time record at 119!) | Paul Douglas on Weather | StarTribune.com (Morehead hit 133.5 degrees that same day).

And you can see without an ocean, how Minnesota usually pegs out the due point meter higher than your neck of the woods with so many lakes.

I forgot the lakes, the first time I flew into Minneapolis/St. Paul I saw why they call it the land of 10,000 lakes.....and the land of 10,000,000 mosquitos. I guess bug protection is the real reason you need a cab

 

[TJP89]

Minnesota, hottest place on earth: "Heat Storm" (record-setting dew point of 82 at MSP, heat index tied all-time record at 119!) | Paul Douglas on Weather | StarTribune.com (Morehead hit 133.5 degrees that same day).

I believe the highest temp ever recorded was 132F, somewhere in the Sahara, so that's hot Hope your A/C works.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I forgot the lakes, the first time I flew into Minneapolis/St. Paul I saw why they call it the land of 10,000 lakes.....and the land of 10,000,000 mosquitos. I guess bug protection is the real reason you need a cab

Random factoid: my father designed the original, main terminal of MSP airport that you flew into.

I just looked it up: In Saudi Arabia on July 8, 2003, the dew point was 35 °C (95 °F) while the temperature was 42 °C (108 °F), resulting in a heat index of 78 °C (172 °F). This is comparable to the temperatures that are recommended to kill bacteria in many meat products, and it is common in a sauna.

Heat index - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[kapper]

I think you should just step up to the NX6010. No regrets down the road with more HP.

I couldn't agree more with TSO.... I learned the hard way. I did TONS of research and bought my first CUT, a 37 hp Deere 3720. Everyone I interviewed who farmed told me that 35+ hp was plenty... Wrong! I then ended up upgrading to the 66 hp CUT and have never looked back. That is why I just ordered the nx6010 hst, when I first started looking for a 40 to 45 hp.... For a few grand more on a 35k to 45k purchase spend the exra for the hp, you can never really have too much, but you will quickly find out when you don't have enough!!!

 

[IslandTractor]

I think you should just step up to the NX6010. No regrets down the road with more HP.

I wouldn't say no regrets. Higher purchase price means less cash to buy more or better implements. Bigger engine means more fuel always even though you'd likely need the extra HP only with some PTO tasks. Excess HP is wasted unless you buy bigger more expensive implements. Zero increase in hydraulic related power. Zero increase in loader capacity.

I don't have an NX but have never seen a task done by a DK50 that my DK40 couldn't do.

Extra few $K to start could allow purchase of a specialized or higher quality implement that could ultimately make a much bigger difference to work output than more HP.

And, don't forget the wasted fuel.

 

[TJP89]

I wouldn't say no regrets. Higher purchase price means less cash to buy more or better implements. Bigger engine means more fuel always even though you'd likely need the extra HP only with some PTO tasks. Excess HP is wasted unless you buy bigger more expensive implements. Zero increase in hydraulic related power. Zero increase in loader capacity.

I don't have an NX but have never seen a task done by a DK50 that my DK40 couldn't do.

Extra few $K to start could allow purchase of a specialized or higher quality implement that could ultimately make a much bigger difference to work output than more HP.

And, don't forget the wasted fuel.

Very wise words :thumbsup: