Haywire
Veteran Member
Based on those diagrams, I'm going to guess that my bevel was closer to 60 than 45.
Ian
Ian
Oh baby, where you been all my life?
- Thread starter Shield Arc
- Start date
- Views: 18568
OP
Shield Arc
Super Member
Learned something today! My compact bender doesn't like reverse bends
. I've never bent a plate coupon before with it, just pipe. The plate bends / warps from all the welding, it curls towards the cover passes. The face coupon slipped in the bender, and didn't bend on center. So I had to cut another coupon. But as you can see, they bent without any visible flaws!
. I've never bent a plate coupon before with it, just pipe. The plate bends / warps from all the welding, it curls towards the cover passes. The face coupon slipped in the bender, and didn't bend on center. So I had to cut another coupon. But as you can see, they bent without any visible flaws!
rankrank1
Platinum Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2007
- Messages
- 749
- Location
- SW OH - near Dayton, OH
- Tractor
- 1978 Kubota L285, 1951 Farmall h, 1946 Farmall m, 1950 John Deere A, 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee, 195? Ford 850, 1948 Case DC, 1948 Case SC
Thanks for providing some proof to back up the chart that I posted earlier. Hopefully your efforts show that 7014 is indeed an okay rod. As with any rod it is not the answer for every application but it will work on many applications because it is so darned easy to use - especially for the unskilled hacks like me.
Additionally, It works well on AC power so that is an added benefit too. Also, no rod oven required for storage.
Additionally, It works well on AC power so that is an added benefit too. Also, no rod oven required for storage.
deereman75
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2011
- Messages
- 1,912
- Location
- canada
- Tractor
- Deere 2120, Warner & Swasey 6000# offroad forklift, Case W9B loader, various non-running decorations
I personally use all 6011, I tried 6013 and it made too much of a mess, hate it. I think i will try a box of 7014
I spent 20 years in the truck leasing business as a mechanic and had to do a lot of welding on flatbed trailers, 7014 and 6013 were about the only rod we ever used and I always preferred the 7014. I learned to weld the same way I learned to use the cutting torch. When wew had a little down time the head mechanic sent me out back to cut up all the scrap iron in the pile to managable sized pieces to haul to the scrap yard. Later he gave me a couple hunks of steel and said to make them one piece then cut them apart and put them back together. Some of the early results were truely ugly but in the course of 20 years I slowly got a little better. I would never pass muster as a welder but I can stick two pieces together. I recently picked up a little Hobart wire welder and have only used 1 spool of flux core wire so I am not real sure if I will like it as well as the old Lincoln 225 buzz box I have had for 30 years.
OP
Shield Arc
Super Member
When I started out, everything was 7018. Then along came wire feeders, (Innershield) I would go years without running stick. So I lost a lot of my stick welding skills, since retiring I've been working on recovering them. One thing I learned about 7014 while running this test plate, was it doesn't like being down in the bottom of a tight V, (root pass) you really have to watch the slag! It wants to run in front of the puddle, almost acts like arc blow. Now this could be I'm just not use to it. At this moment in time I've only run about two pounds of it.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I dont post much in these welding threads, but this one definatally caught my eye.
First of all, I concider myself a decient welder. I have made and fabbed many things. As well as being required to weld at work. But I am not a professional welder that welds everyday for a living.
But the reason I am compelled to respond to this thread is the fact that you tried 7014 and liked it.
90% of the time I post in a welding thread, the scenario is usually a newbie just learning to weld. (like haywire). I ALWAYS reccomend the 7014. Mainly because it welds as easy as 6013 but is stronger. And 90% of the time, I always get flamed by the "professionals" that always say "6010 root and 7018 out". And the people that say they would NEVER use anything BUT 7018, etc.
The fact is, that most of us as home hobbiest building trailers, reparing implements, building implements, etc dont NEED an x-ray quality 100% penetration weld. Because the weld usually isnt the weakest link. Not to mention the storage issues of 7018. The ONLY rods I keep on hand is 6013 and 7014. And I will ocasionally keep some 6011, but not for welding. For "hotrodding" when the torches are out of gas and I dont need a pretty cut.
I applaud you for actually taking the time to step away from the 7018 bandwagon and actually try out the 7014:thumbsup: For 99% of the members on here, I think it is the best rod to choose.
First of all, I concider myself a decient welder. I have made and fabbed many things. As well as being required to weld at work. But I am not a professional welder that welds everyday for a living.
But the reason I am compelled to respond to this thread is the fact that you tried 7014 and liked it.
90% of the time I post in a welding thread, the scenario is usually a newbie just learning to weld. (like haywire). I ALWAYS reccomend the 7014. Mainly because it welds as easy as 6013 but is stronger. And 90% of the time, I always get flamed by the "professionals" that always say "6010 root and 7018 out". And the people that say they would NEVER use anything BUT 7018, etc.
The fact is, that most of us as home hobbiest building trailers, reparing implements, building implements, etc dont NEED an x-ray quality 100% penetration weld. Because the weld usually isnt the weakest link. Not to mention the storage issues of 7018. The ONLY rods I keep on hand is 6013 and 7014. And I will ocasionally keep some 6011, but not for welding. For "hotrodding" when the torches are out of gas and I dont need a pretty cut.
I applaud you for actually taking the time to step away from the 7018 bandwagon and actually try out the 7014:thumbsup: For 99% of the members on here, I think it is the best rod to choose.
LD1, My father taught me by having me build up bulldozer pads, don't remember which rod I used. My father told me if you can't get the movement down you will never be able to weld. Boy did I ever put down A LOT of beads building up pads, and I only did one bulldozer but it was a big dozer. Been welding for nearly 40 years with mainly the 7014 and I don't think I have had a 1/2 dozen welds crack. One thing I will say, the 7014 does not like dirty/rusty steal and it is not particularly found of galvanized steal either. I will also say welding with AC is not my bag either. Beginners should start out using DC. I'll shut up now!
LD1
Epic Contributor
Boy it seems as if a lot of 7014 users are comming out of the woodwork and saying it's an ok rod:confused2:
usually in these welding threads (on this site and others) I am one of only a very few who even suggest 7014. And like I said, we usually take a beating for it too.
I have had VERY few welds ever fail. MiG, 7014, 6013, or otherwise. And the ones that did, I doubt that 7018 would have made a lick of difference. IMO, 7014 is one of the BEST mild steel rods.
As to the AC/DC debate, I guess I really dont have an opinion because I dont even know what our welder is 15 or so years ago when I was just learning to weld, It didnt make a lick of difference to me. So maybe some of you might be able to enlighten me as to what type of machine I have.
Im sure some of you will know what I am talking about, but it is an old craftsman square thing. About 30" or so high, by about 24" wide, an about 18" deep. About the size of a mini-fridge. And you adjust the amperage by moving the ground and stinger cables to different holes in the front of the welder. There is an A and B for one, and various amperages for the other, ranging from somewhere around 35-40 up to 200. I typically only use one of 4 settings, 95,110,125, and 140. So any Ideas as to wether this is an AC or DC?????
usually in these welding threads (on this site and others) I am one of only a very few who even suggest 7014. And like I said, we usually take a beating for it too.
I have had VERY few welds ever fail. MiG, 7014, 6013, or otherwise. And the ones that did, I doubt that 7018 would have made a lick of difference. IMO, 7014 is one of the BEST mild steel rods.
As to the AC/DC debate, I guess I really dont have an opinion because I dont even know what our welder is
15 or so years ago when I was just learning to weld, It didnt make a lick of difference to me. So maybe some of you might be able to enlighten me as to what type of machine I have.Im sure some of you will know what I am talking about, but it is an old craftsman square thing. About 30" or so high, by about 24" wide, an about 18" deep. About the size of a mini-fridge. And you adjust the amperage by moving the ground and stinger cables to different holes in the front of the welder. There is an A and B for one, and various amperages for the other, ranging from somewhere around 35-40 up to 200. I typically only use one of 4 settings, 95,110,125, and 140. So any Ideas as to wether this is an AC or DC?????
LD1, Maybe we are old school or something:confused2:
Your welder would have both AC and DC ports and the ports would be label as such. It would also have reverse polarity ports and they would be labeled as well. Or maybe switches to switch polarity and between AC and DC. I would guess an AC welder. DC welders are usually both AC and DC.
Your welder would have both AC and DC ports and the ports would be label as such. It would also have reverse polarity ports and they would be labeled as well. Or maybe switches to switch polarity and between AC and DC. I would guess an AC welder. DC welders are usually both AC and DC.