Old PTO Conversion

[Eric_Phillips]

I have aquired a New Holland Model 220 manure spreader. This thing has been sitting in a field for 10-20 years. Other than the tires are toast the thing runs. So my problem is the PTO. As you can see in the attached photos the PTO connection was sunk in the mud for most of those 20 years. My question is what can I do to convert this to a modern PTO coupler? Also any ideas on how to get the PTO shaft to telescope again? Do I just need a new shaft? If so what about the implement end and the new shaft?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[Tom_Veatch]

I have aquired a New Holland Model 220 manure spreader. This thing has been sitting in a field for 10-20 years. Other than the tires are toast the thing runs. So my problem is the PTO. As you can see in the attached photos the PTO connection was sunk in the mud for most of those 20 years. My question is what can I do to convert this to a modern PTO coupler? Also any ideas on how to get the PTO shaft to telescope again? Do I just need a new shaft? If so what about the implement end and the new shaft?

Thanks,
Eric

If it were up to me, first thing I'd try would be the electrolytic de-rusting approach. There was a recent thread in the Project Forum talking about that process. See it here. Then when that didn't work, I'd go buy a new shaft.

But, in truth, you can get some phenomenal results with electrolytic rust removal, and you don't need anything really out of the ordinary to do it.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Without seeing both ends, just looks like an old PTO that could be replaced with a new one.
Bob

 

[TrippleT]

If you can pull the shaft apart clean the shaft with a wire wheel brush or what ever you have and put in a new ujoint and the splined part, grease it. From what I can see, not being there, looks like that would work.

 

[srjones]

I have similar problem (can't get an old PTO shaft to telescope). I haven't done it yet, but the only thing I could think of use a wire rope (cable) to connect one side to a stump, connect a come-along to the other side, and then attach the come-along to a different stump. Apply PowerBlaster and some heat and start cranking. Once it's apart, then use a wire brush, grease well, and put it back together.

If that doesn't work, I may consider the electrolytic rust removal process.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Thank you for the comments. I was looking at the TSC catalog and noticed they have a 6 to 23 spline adaptor. I need to look at the PTO connector again but I thought it had less splines than what I had expected when I was cleaning the mud out. If that is the case and I can get the pin that secured the connector to work again I might try that. I might need to try the two stump come-along trick to get the telescoping parts free. I also though this would be a good project for the electrolysis rust removal. Hmmm, I wonder if I could make a bath big enough to put the whole manure spreader in .

Thanks,
Eric

 

[sandman2234]

I think a little heat in the right places, and the spreader anchored well, and the comalong should do the trick. Presoak with PB Blaster for a couple of days, adding a little more every time you wander by before getting in a rush to put the pull to it.
David from jax

 

[BTDT]

A good drive shaft shop should be able to fix you right up quicker that anything else. Take it loose from spreader end, and let them replace all the u-joints while they are at it. If all u-joints took grease and don't have any rough spots, you could probably get away without replacing. To get shaft freed up, I would block the wheels and tie a chain around shaft and pull gently with tractor, come-a-long, etc. Then as others have said, wire brush, grease, and put back together. With someones help you might be able to get it hooked to tractor, then engage pto and let the tractor shake it loose for you. That's whats fun about equipment, repair/replace? can I do this or do I have to have someone else do it. Just be careful.

 

[Soundguy]

I have similar problem (can't get an old PTO shaft to telescope). I haven't done it yet, but the only thing I could think of use a wire rope (cable) to connect one side to a stump, connect a come-along to the other side, and then attach the come-along to a different stump. Apply PowerBlaster and some heat and start cranking. Once it's apart, then use a wire brush, grease well, and put it back together.

If that doesn't work, I may consider the electrolytic rust removal process.

In the last few months I've unstuck a couple pto shafts.

I put them in tension, loaded them up with penetrating oil, and then i took 2 hammers and hit them ont he pto shaft oposed ( across ) form each other to help swag the shafts a bit.

You will probably find that te shaft losoens a bit.. just retension and keep tapping.

In both cases the shafts came free with intermittant attention in less than a day.. just tap on them a while.. walk away.. hit with oil.. tap some more.. walk away.. etc..


Soundguy

 

[rambler]

Looks like you shouldn't need to buy anything, tho it _could_ go bad if no one greased the cross before it was burried in the mud.

Wire brush the connector, PB-Blast it for a while, tap the lock pin to get it working, scrap the inside splines, and BE SURE to get grease into the zerk on that knuckle. You will need to take the zerk off & replace & scratch out the dirt under the zerk.

I'd expect it to run fine. However if the needles in the cross bearings (they _shoulda_ held up with the grease they _should_ still be in....) went bad you'll know it pretty soon.

A torch will get the tubes unstuck real quick, heat the outer one, gentle beating with a hammer & they will be apart. BP Blaster (or favorite penitrating oil) and a light steel wooling or what have you, & will work as good as new. Then coat with good grease to keep them in good shape.

If you don't have access to the torch, the tension & pounding with 2 hammers will work, with a bit more effort.

What you really really really should buy is a sheild to put over the shaft again, protect yourself & loved ones.

If you want to replace the whole thing, easy to do from TSC or any farm store. A manure spreader is a big load, you will likely need the bigger stronger type, don't try to squeak by with a thin tube.

--->Paul

 

[bjr]

My goodness you boys are a fussy bunch. That's a perfectly fine piece of driveline in my neck-o-woods. Use a needle scaler on ii for a while. Lot's of PB Blaster. Probably a big screw driver to go down the internal splines to chisel off the rust there. Wire brushing and tap-tap-tappping on the release pin with more PB Blaster. Yeah it's time consuming but most poor old broke farmer typ's do this, at least I do. bjr

 

[Eric_Phillips]

I have greased the whole spreader. All but two zerks would take grease. Some of them only took about 2 strokes of the grease gun. I also grabbed the paddles in the back and gave it a turn. Everything moves and seems to work. Now at speed some of those bearings might show some weakness. The pin on the coupler, that is supposed to push in? That is the thing I am most concerned about; it looks like one mass of rusty metal now. I will try some penetrating oil and a hammer. Where do you guys get PB Blaster? I don't remember seeing it at Lowes. To get the shaft to telescope I don't have a torch or at least one better than the propane things for soldering copper so a com-along, hammer and more penetrating oil here I come. I won’t have anything to spread until next summer so I have some time.

In terms of safety. I laughed when I looked over this spreader. No lawyer would let a company roll a spreader like this off their assembly line now. From the tractor to the front of the bed there is only a small cover over the U-joint. From there a couple gears and a chain are covered that transmit the power to an uncovered shaft running down the side of the spreader. Not the safest thing around.

Eric

 

[srjones]

NAPA auto parts carries PB out here. I suspect that would also be true in Rochester.

 

[Soundguy]

Don't discount that plumbers propane torch. I've heated alot of parts a-part with one.

Soundguy

I have greased the whole spreader. All but two zerks would take grease. Some of them only took about 2 strokes of the grease gun. I also grabbed the paddles in the back and gave it a turn. Everything moves and seems to work. Now at speed some of those bearings might show some weakness. The pin on the coupler, that is supposed to push in? That is the thing I am most concerned about; it looks like one mass of rusty metal now. I will try some penetrating oil and a hammer. Where do you guys get PB Blaster? I don't remember seeing it at Lowes. To get the shaft to telescope I don't have a torch or at least one better than the propane things for soldering copper so a com-along, hammer and more penetrating oil here I come. I won’t have anything to spread until next summer so I have some time.

In terms of safety. I laughed when I looked over this spreader. No lawyer would let a company roll a spreader like this off their assembly line now. From the tractor to the front of the bed there is only a small cover over the U-joint. From there a couple gears and a chain are covered that transmit the power to an uncovered shaft running down the side of the spreader. Not the safest thing around.

Eric

 

[rambler]

The pin on the coupler, that is supposed to push in? That is the thing I am most concerned about; it looks like one mass of rusty metal now. I will try some penetrating oil and a hammer. Where do you guys get PB Blaster?

My farm supply store sells PB Blaster. But, anything with the word 'Penetrating' in it will work. 'Liquid Wrench' is another popular one. I'm not such a fan of WD40 for these jobs, it is a Water Dispersal product, it doesn't loosen & 'creep in' so good.

The pin on the coupler: Fat side should push in, the skiny side (with the clip) will push outward. There is a spring inside that should push it back out again. If you can loosen it up enough but it don't work right, you can buy just that pin/clip/spring at farm supply stores for a couple bucks. I'd soak it up with penetrating oil, wait a day or 2, and tap on it. tap it back & forth once it starts. Apply penetrating oil inside the coupler too - that pin is exposed in a notch inside, you will see what I mean. Actually very little of it is in metal, so they generally come free with a little work.

All my spreaders (one is still working, one the big chains broke, one the wood is failing...) have a lot of exposed shafts - but to be fair, it ain't runnig while you load it, and when it is running, not too many people want to be that close to it.

The worst thing on an old spreader is the chains inside the box. The bottom will wear off the links that the bars are on, then get weak & stretch & break. And their you sit with a fork, pitching the stuff out......

--->Paul

 

[billbill1]

Walmart sells PB Blaster around here, it's in the automotive sections.