Only in Texas, Don and Harv doing

wroughtn_harv · May 17, 2006

Morning Don,

I was up until ten thirty last night repairing the factory class three receiver hitch on my son in laws K3500. And I'm running late this morning.

Maybe this picture will help you until tonight when I can find the pictures of the framing etc.

txdon · May 17, 2006

Harvey, yes that does help. I have dug the trench for the bean and tamped it with gravel. It turned out to be about an 8"X8" with a 10" base.

I will put the ledge 2x2 3/4" away from the pole to leave room for the bracket and purlin.

I will not put a ledge in the doorway that leads to the porte-cochere. Should the ledge start 18' or 18' + 3/4" from the front pole so I will not have to cut a sheet? Or should I measure from the other way another distance? Thanks.

txdon · May 17, 2006

Harvey, yes that does help. I have dug the trench for the bean and tamped it with gravel. It turned out to be about an 8"X8" with a 10" base.

I will put the ledge 2x2 3/4" away from the pole to leave room for the bracket and purlin.

I will not put a ledge in the doorway that leads to the porte-cochere. Should the ledge start 18' or 18' + 3/4" from the front pole so I will not have to cut a sheet? Or should I measure from the other way another distance? Thanks.

wroughtn_harv · May 18, 2006

That looks good Don.

At the end of the beam bring your two by two around making a ninety. Then if you ever decided to finish of the end you're ready. If you don't, well, it's no big thing.

I wouldn't worry about the full sheet concept too much. If you keep it in one foot increments it's a snap to cut the sheets, literally. I'll try to take some pictures of how to do the technique next week when we cover the horse barn.

On Scotts barn we had to cut one of the top sheets, 29'-10" long. He did it with a box knife. Yup, a box knife. The only hiccups in this is effort and ability to cut a straight line with a utility or box knife.

His cut was exactly twelve inches so he was able to use a rib crevice as guide. He used the box knife to score the steel along the break line or groove along the rib. It usually takes about three passes to score deep enough to make it work. Then the sheet is folded over at the score line and it will snap clean as a whistle.

He taught me this technique probably ten years ago and it still never ceases to amaze me when I use it or see it done by someone else. In a lot of instances it's the easiest way to accomplish a cut. But it only works in a lengthwise cut, not worth a flip crosswise.

When you're mixing your concrete for your beams keep it wet and remember to tap the sides of the forms to help it settle in for a decent finish and complete coverage. I've found on beams to have a bundle of those one by two by eight inch stakes handy. I use the stakes to go across the beam tying them together with drywall screws. I'd also put in more stakes if I was you. Then when the concrete starts stiffening up and you're wanting to finish you can remove the one by two stakes as you reach them.

wroughtn_harv · May 18, 2006

That looks good Don.

At the end of the beam bring your two by two around making a ninety. Then if you ever decided to finish of the end you're ready. If you don't, well, it's no big thing.

I wouldn't worry about the full sheet concept too much. If you keep it in one foot increments it's a snap to cut the sheets, literally. I'll try to take some pictures of how to do the technique next week when we cover the horse barn.

On Scotts barn we had to cut one of the top sheets, 29'-10" long. He did it with a box knife. Yup, a box knife. The only hiccups in this is effort and ability to cut a straight line with a utility or box knife.

His cut was exactly twelve inches so he was able to use a rib crevice as guide. He used the box knife to score the steel along the break line or groove along the rib. It usually takes about three passes to score deep enough to make it work. Then the sheet is folded over at the score line and it will snap clean as a whistle.

He taught me this technique probably ten years ago and it still never ceases to amaze me when I use it or see it done by someone else. In a lot of instances it's the easiest way to accomplish a cut. But it only works in a lengthwise cut, not worth a flip crosswise.

When you're mixing your concrete for your beams keep it wet and remember to tap the sides of the forms to help it settle in for a decent finish and complete coverage. I've found on beams to have a bundle of those one by two by eight inch stakes handy. I use the stakes to go across the beam tying them together with drywall screws. I'd also put in more stakes if I was you. Then when the concrete starts stiffening up and you're wanting to finish you can remove the one by two stakes as you reach them.

EddieWalker · May 18, 2006

Hi Don,

Looks like the fun is about to begin. Nothing like pouring mud on a nice day to get the juices flowing!!!!

I'm curious about your ledge and why you have it attached to your form before the pour?

This isn't my specialty, and I've only been involved in a few metal buildings, so it could be that I've just seen it done differnetly.

But the times I have seen it done, they pour the mud first, then scoop out some for the ledge and put the board in. Tamp it down to grade and fill in the side. Then smooth it all out. By the time it's all said and done, they will remove the board real quick and start smoothing out the concrete so it's a perfect smooth finish.

By having the board attached to your forms, it's very hard to remove the air pockets under it. The odds are very likely that you will have a real bad finish on the bottom part of your ledge.

Eddie

EddieWalker · May 18, 2006

Hi Don,

Looks like the fun is about to begin. Nothing like pouring mud on a nice day to get the juices flowing!!!!

I'm curious about your ledge and why you have it attached to your form before the pour?

This isn't my specialty, and I've only been involved in a few metal buildings, so it could be that I've just seen it done differnetly.

But the times I have seen it done, they pour the mud first, then scoop out some for the ledge and put the board in. Tamp it down to grade and fill in the side. Then smooth it all out. By the time it's all said and done, they will remove the board real quick and start smoothing out the concrete so it's a perfect smooth finish.

By having the board attached to your forms, it's very hard to remove the air pockets under it. The odds are very likely that you will have a real bad finish on the bottom part of your ledge.

Eddie

txdon · May 18, 2006

<font color="blue"> "...they will remove the board real quick..." </font>

Eddie good point. I guess the answer is in your quote above: "they" - more than one, and "real quick" which is what I'm not.

I can see a team of pros doing it the way you described. Thanks for you tips they always have me thinking and re-think each part of the building process. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

txdon · May 18, 2006

<font color="blue"> "...they will remove the board real quick..." </font>

Eddie good point. I guess the answer is in your quote above: "they" - more than one, and "real quick" which is what I'm not.

I can see a team of pros doing it the way you described. Thanks for you tips they always have me thinking and re-think each part of the building process. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

wroughtn_harv · May 18, 2006

Some builders of metal buildings lay the siding on top of the slab. I know of one, a friend of mine, in Southern Oklahoma that lays down two 1 1/2 inch square tubes side by side for a ledge. He pulls the outside one for the ledge for the siding to sit on and he uses the inside one to attach the siding.

The reason I suggested Don pour the concrete wet and tap it along the forms is to settle the concrete under the ledge. It won't have a trowel finish but the only ones inspecting will be the bugs and varmints looking for a way in. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif