EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
txdon said:
Steph and I would like to attend. As of now, we look good, but still have to make sure.
Are you gonna start a thread in the get together section so we can plan it out and figure out who can bring what?
Eddie
Only in Texas, Don and Harv doing
- Thread starter wroughtn_harv
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Steph and I would like to attend. As of now, we look good, but still have to make sure.
Are you gonna start a thread in the get together section so we can plan it out and figure out who can bring what?
Eddie
bgoodman
Silver Member
That should work for me. I'll leave when I get off of work that saturday morning (about 4 am) and head that direction.
txdon
Super Star Member
"Are you gonna start a thread in the get together section so we can plan it out and figure out who can bring what?" - Eddie
Good idea Eddie. A thread, with the same name as this thread, has just been started below in Meetings and Get-Together forum.
All discussions about the Fall Get-Together please post in that forum.
All building related advise/remarks/question/photos will stay here.
Thanks!
Good idea Eddie. A thread, with the same name as this thread, has just been started below in Meetings and Get-Together forum.
All discussions about the Fall Get-Together please post in that forum.
All building related advise/remarks/question/photos will stay here.
Thanks!
OP
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
It looks like it's time for Don to order the skin and trim.
I explained to Don how to order the siding. They will cut it to size down to the half inch. The trick is to measure at the outer edge of the ridge and not at the framework. So he wants to lay a straight edge across the purlins between the rafters. Then he wants to take a measurement from the concrete edge to where the outer edge of the rib contacts the straight edge. He needs to take this measurement at multiple points around the perimeter of the building. There shouldn't be much variance and he should order his sheets the shortest distance.
The gable at the open end can be remnants of the gable ends of the inner wall of the room or closed end of the building. Let's say the peak is thirteen feet. Normally I'd order two sheets thirteen feet and then two sheets twelve etc so I wouldn't be having a lot of waste. But with the open end needing gable material too I'd order the sheets peak length. Then the pieces left over will be the right size for that.
I highly recommend gutters. The gutters made for the R panel construction work better than any other kind that I'm aware of for this application. It's plenty big and it color matches perfectly. The way they attach to the roof is they're of a G profile. The little short horizontal leg of the G goes under then roof sheeting and is attached with screws. The upper horizontal leg of the G is a couple of inches shorter. Pieces of ridge called gutter strap are attached to the roof sheet and then the upper horizontal edge. I use two gutter straps per sheet of roof.
Don't forget end plates for the gutters. I believe your supplier will recommend two downspouts for each of your thirty foot runs of gutter. I wouldn't even consider not guttering the building.
You'll need rake trim. They will make the rake trim to fit your pitch. You'll also need J trim which is what we use around doors, windows, and openings. We also will need corner trim.
There are two kinds of screws. They look the same until you inspect them closely. One is the purlin screw. This one is for attaching the the sheeting to the framework. The other is a stitch or trim screw. It's tapered and is used to attach sheeting and trim to sheeting. Screws cost me twenty dollars for two hundred and fifty for either style. That includes a powder coated color match and a neoprene washer.
I like to use too many screws. Most installations use one screw per R panel ridge per piece of framework. I try to use two. Makes me feel better.
The way it will work is we'll first put up the sides. Then we'll do the roofing. That will be followed by the trim. I'll have Scott bring some gutterman's friend. It's a sealant that you don't want on you. The only way to remove it is to wear it off. But it is magic when it comes to sealing holes, mistakes, and seams.
I don't know what Karen has decided about color. I do recommend a light color roof because we are in Texas. But do keep in mind that you should be picking colors that will be used in the home, garage, and shop that you're going to building later. It's always nice after everything's been done that it looks like it was all done by the same company and with the same color schemes.
I explained to Don how to order the siding. They will cut it to size down to the half inch. The trick is to measure at the outer edge of the ridge and not at the framework. So he wants to lay a straight edge across the purlins between the rafters. Then he wants to take a measurement from the concrete edge to where the outer edge of the rib contacts the straight edge. He needs to take this measurement at multiple points around the perimeter of the building. There shouldn't be much variance and he should order his sheets the shortest distance.
The gable at the open end can be remnants of the gable ends of the inner wall of the room or closed end of the building. Let's say the peak is thirteen feet. Normally I'd order two sheets thirteen feet and then two sheets twelve etc so I wouldn't be having a lot of waste. But with the open end needing gable material too I'd order the sheets peak length. Then the pieces left over will be the right size for that.
I highly recommend gutters. The gutters made for the R panel construction work better than any other kind that I'm aware of for this application. It's plenty big and it color matches perfectly. The way they attach to the roof is they're of a G profile. The little short horizontal leg of the G goes under then roof sheeting and is attached with screws. The upper horizontal leg of the G is a couple of inches shorter. Pieces of ridge called gutter strap are attached to the roof sheet and then the upper horizontal edge. I use two gutter straps per sheet of roof.
Don't forget end plates for the gutters. I believe your supplier will recommend two downspouts for each of your thirty foot runs of gutter. I wouldn't even consider not guttering the building.
You'll need rake trim. They will make the rake trim to fit your pitch. You'll also need J trim which is what we use around doors, windows, and openings. We also will need corner trim.
There are two kinds of screws. They look the same until you inspect them closely. One is the purlin screw. This one is for attaching the the sheeting to the framework. The other is a stitch or trim screw. It's tapered and is used to attach sheeting and trim to sheeting. Screws cost me twenty dollars for two hundred and fifty for either style. That includes a powder coated color match and a neoprene washer.
I like to use too many screws. Most installations use one screw per R panel ridge per piece of framework. I try to use two. Makes me feel better.
The way it will work is we'll first put up the sides. Then we'll do the roofing. That will be followed by the trim. I'll have Scott bring some gutterman's friend. It's a sealant that you don't want on you. The only way to remove it is to wear it off. But it is magic when it comes to sealing holes, mistakes, and seams.
I don't know what Karen has decided about color. I do recommend a light color roof because we are in Texas. But do keep in mind that you should be picking colors that will be used in the home, garage, and shop that you're going to building later. It's always nice after everything's been done that it looks like it was all done by the same company and with the same color schemes.
txdon
Super Star Member
Harvey thanks for the info on the skin. I am almost ready to order. I want to take a few more pictures showing all angles to see If more bracing is required. The sun was in the way this evening.
The color of the walls will be brown or stone. The roof will be silver. I wish I could find some old barn wood for the carport area. The 4' peak at the entrance is a excellent place for some "art work".
Well today I finally finished the purlins and collar ties and it was time to remove the TEMPORARY supports. For some reason this was both stressful and exciting. I was pretty sure it would not collapse, but I also did not want it to sag.
The color of the walls will be brown or stone. The roof will be silver. I wish I could find some old barn wood for the carport area. The 4' peak at the entrance is a excellent place for some "art work".
Well today I finally finished the purlins and collar ties and it was time to remove the TEMPORARY supports. For some reason this was both stressful and exciting. I was pretty sure it would not collapse, but I also did not want it to sag.
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txdon
Super Star Member
As you can tell it did not sag!
The next framing should be easy: the porched area for the golfcart.
Harvey how would you do it? Here are a few pictures.
After the porch there will the framing for the windows. Are the windows mounted on the inside or in the middle of the purlin. Will there be a angled window sill? Thanks!
The next framing should be easy: the porched area for the golfcart.
Harvey how would you do it? Here are a few pictures.
After the porch there will the framing for the windows. Are the windows mounted on the inside or in the middle of the purlin. Will there be a angled window sill? Thanks!
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jinman
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txdon said:
Don, that framing looks terrific. Everything is so straight and true that the crooked fence posts in the background stick out like sore thumbs in your "did it sag?" picture. I did a double-take until I realized what they are.
txdon
Super Star Member
Thanks Jim. Those post are symbols of the simple way of life many years ago. They are from the property border fence and they outlasted the barbed wire.
I did not plan it but the old oak tree frames the building. The carport side and the front peak will be the first thing that you see as you come up the hill through the woods and around the corner. It will be important to incorporate the character of the place into the building.
I did not plan it but the old oak tree frames the building. The carport side and the front peak will be the first thing that you see as you come up the hill through the woods and around the corner. It will be important to incorporate the character of the place into the building.
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txdon
Super Star Member
OP
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
txdon said:
I'd shop at HD or Lowes or Ace or Seconds and Surplus for the windows and doors. The windows should have aluminum frames and then attach via screws and a flange screwed into the outside of the framework. The doors are installed just like you were building with stud or lumber framing.
The easiest way to do the portoche (LOL) is to extend the pitch from the roof straight down. If you have enough height that would be the way to do it. Then using brackets attach to your sill angled purlin and run rafters to the cartoche (new word for an old idea). That way you can order sheets that will run one piece. We might have to trim a piece if the sheets don't land just right. But it makes it easier and leaves a lot less potential for problems down the road.
If the angle of the pitch leaves the eave too short and a hazard for walking then place the rafters the same way but there will be a change at the edge of the building in the pitch. On Scotts we were able to do this and still use single sheets. But the change wasn't so great that we couldn't pull it down with the screws.
Keep in mind you'll need additonal gutter ends and down spouts.