Option for 3rd remote on NX?

[DieselBound]

Another somewhat related question:

How difficult would it be to run a set of hoses from one of these remotes up to the front loader? Would a cab make this install more difficult? I'm (now) contemplating a cab model and would like to add an install of these hoses to the purchase if it makes better sense to do this up-front. I'd had a quote of $300 when I got my first quote for the non-cab model (also quoted with a grapple): I decided that I'm going to go with a grapple from EA.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I have a 2006 cabbed DK45 and ran hoses to the FEL for my grapple and hydraulic auger. I also put couplers/disconnects in the lines in case I ever need to remove the FEL. This setup works fine, though I would have preferred a factory front remote option, since my installation skills are amateurish.
I only have one set of remotes, so the FEL hoses are connected for the summer and the (rear-mounted) snowblower chute rotator for the winter...a bit of a nuisance that more remote outlets would eliminate.

 

[DieselBound]

Talked to the dealer today and he said that there's nothing special about running the lines on a cab (vs open station). I'll look to do these myself and, per the great advice, do it in two pieces, with a coupler to facilitate removal of the loader (probably the only time I'd be removing the loader is if I were to have to transport the tractor [reduce weight]).

 

[DieselBound]

With my new EA Wicked Grapple en-route (on the truck) I need to start getting ready to plumb for it. I also don't yet have the tractor, so I'm hoping that maybe some NX folks might be able to state what length of lines they ended up using (and what couplers). Per EA, the grapple will have "Universal quick attach" 66" hose with flat-faced couplers, if that makes any difference.

I'd read where some folks opt to run lines down the left side of the tractor. I'm contemplating this as I figure it might make for a cleaner install.

I am also looking at putting in some couplers to allow for easier removal of the loader.

 

[comancheflight]

I just added two remotes today (total 3). It's rather easy to do despite the fact Kioti instructions leave much to be desired.
The first step is to open the doors and windows and crank your aftermarket sound system.
I started by removing the plastic cover to the levers, the bottom plastic cover located next to the floor at the back and then the two other grommets on the rear of the tractor. Then snaked a 12ga wire from the remote levers down and out the back. To this point is about 15 minutes if you take your time. I then used the wire to pull the new remote cable through. Would have worked but I was afraid of tearing the foam where the levers come through the fender at the top so I ended up removing the 3point lever handles (using the chanel lock procedure - works like a charm) and then removed all the bolts to let the fender raise up. That allowed the cable to come through followed bt the second one and secured everything. I used the Fasten all bolts recommend here. Ordered them online and was in hand the next day. Once tested I put the cab back together. You can easily do this in 2 - 3 hours if your going slow.
A final note. You need to remove the bracket for the top link holder. I ground the end and also took some of the curvature out so it would have adequate clearance.
If I hadn't cleaned the cab this was a 2 hour job taking my time.

 

[DieselBound]

commanche, great info!

I just realized that I hadn't update this thread to note that I ended up ordering a cab model and that the dealer will be installing three sets of remotes in the rear. I'd kind of jumped right to running hoses up front (off of the rear remotes), which is kind of off-track

 

[ritcheyvs]

I think you'll be glad you did that. I had one remote that I never used until I needed to maintain some dirt trails. I got a box blade because grading with the loader bucket was way too cumbersome. Then I got a hydraulic top link so I didn't have to jump down to readjust it every couple of minutes. That was great because I could adjust in the fly as well as switching to and from back-blading in seconds. But I had low spots that never drained so I added a second remote and tilt cylinder. That allowed me to slope the road to drain into the retention areas. Now I wish I had a third remote for a grapple but my DK only has provisions for two. So I see a diverter valve or third function in my future. So you are way ahead of me.

 

[DieselBound]

I think you'll be glad you did that. I had one remote that I never used until I needed to maintain some dirt trails. I got a box blade because grading with the loader bucket was way too cumbersome. Then I got a hydraulic top link so I didn't have to jump down to readjust it every couple of minutes. That was great because I could adjust in the fly as well as switching to and from back-blading in seconds. But I had low spots that never drained so I added a second remote and tilt cylinder. That allowed me to slope the road to drain into the retention areas. Now I wish I had a third remote for a grapple but my DK only has provisions for two. So I see a diverter valve or third function in my future. So you are way ahead of me.

And then there are folks using three remotes just on the rear!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/86417-adding-hydraulic-side-links.html

Here's the relevant picture of what this equates to:

TiltsGood.jpg Photo by rliefveld | Photobucket

Talk about "twisted!"

 

[mudplugger]

And then there are folks using three remotes just on the rear!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/86417-adding-hydraulic-side-links.html

Here's the relevant picture of what this equates to:

TiltsGood.jpg Photo by rliefveld | Photobucket

Talk about "twisted!"

I have three remotes on the back of my NX6010HST and a "third service" (that's what we call it here in the UK) for a grapple on the front end loader.
The rear remotes are colour coded and each has it's own lever with a detent at the end for providing the implement with continuous flow if needed.
The "third service" operates from a momentary push button on the loader joystick that operates a latching relay (effect is push once to engage, and once again to disengage) with the LED in the button lighting up when the third service is "live".
The hydraulics are provided from the "crowd" or tilt function on the bucket, and diverted by a solenoid valve fitted in the lines to feed the "third service".
If using a grab, you just push the button and use the joystick "crowd" or tilt function to open/close the grab, and when done push the button again to regain the "crowd" or tilt function.
Simple!
Works a treat.

 

[DieselBound]

I'll be running third-function/thrid-service hydraulics off of one of the rear remotes. For now, anyway. I'm looking at hose/line routing, interested in doing what EricTheOracle did on his NX: hard lines on the loader arm.