I don't think you you have two lines running from the block to the loader valve. You have one line running to it and the other is a return. With an open system, the oil just runs through the loader valve, except when you are raising or lowering or curling the bucket. I would think you would put your priority valve in the line between the block and the loader valve and leave the return as it is, or put it in the return line running from the loader valve back to the block which would then be ahead of the three point hydraulics. In any case, your valve will constantly divert the 1.5 gpm to the power steering circuit. I'm certainly not an expert on this, but this is the way I see it. I have noticed that when they put power steering on old Farmall tractors with a live hydraulic pump, they always recommend a priority valve, such as you have. The B7100 only produces about 2.96 gpm, so this might limit your other hydraulic functions. As I have stated earlier, the power steering on my 7100 limits the use of my three point at idle, but the advantages of the power steering far outweigh that limitation.
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P/S B7100/7200
- Thread starter Elsie71
- Start date
- Views: 60302
clarkvg
Member
Thanks for helping... you are right.
I followed the hoses up to the joy stick and printed on the casting it has "IN" on one side and "OUT" on the other. So you are right about the block.
But on the IN side of the casting there is a block attached with two hoses. I think, the bigger hose is the IN line and the other smaller hose goes to a fitting just in front of the seat. Where the fill port is/was. I thought that was the return line because it is above the fluid level. I have no idea what function that hose serves. Do you? Maybe its there as a bypass for when the loader is removed and the loader hoses are disconnected. It keeps the open system flowing?
Anyway, If I understand you correctly I need to tap into the supply hose with the diverter valve with the 1.5GPM going to the control valve and the other to the IN side of the joystick,and then tap into a return hose from the control valve? Right? Are the return lines low pressure, so can I put a Tee in one for the p/s control valve return line? Thanks Clark
I followed the hoses up to the joy stick and printed on the casting it has "IN" on one side and "OUT" on the other. So you are right about the block.
But on the IN side of the casting there is a block attached with two hoses. I think, the bigger hose is the IN line and the other smaller hose goes to a fitting just in front of the seat. Where the fill port is/was. I thought that was the return line because it is above the fluid level. I have no idea what function that hose serves. Do you? Maybe its there as a bypass for when the loader is removed and the loader hoses are disconnected. It keeps the open system flowing?
Anyway, If I understand you correctly I need to tap into the supply hose with the diverter valve with the 1.5GPM going to the control valve and the other to the IN side of the joystick,and then tap into a return hose from the control valve? Right? Are the return lines low pressure, so can I put a Tee in one for the p/s control valve return line? Thanks Clark
I think you are right. I am not familiar with your joystick loader control valve, but what you are saying would appear to work. I also think the return lines would not be under pressure, especially with no resistance on the other end.
clarkvg
Member
I finally talked to the guy that install the loaded and he said the small hose that goes to the fill is connected to the relief valve.
The cylinder and the control link are going to be mounted today. That first cut on projects like this are hardest for me...
I going to try to reverse the cylinder so the cylinder body moves and not the ram. I hope this will reduce the hose movement between the control link and the cylinder body.
The cylinder and the control link are going to be mounted today. That first cut on projects like this are hardest for me...
I going to try to reverse the cylinder so the cylinder body moves and not the ram. I hope this will reduce the hose movement between the control link and the cylinder body.
mr.pauls@verizon.net
Member
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Messages
- 35
HI, CLARKVG; ITS BEEN SEVEN DAYS SINCE YOU LAST POSTED AND I WAS WONDERING HOW PROJECT IS GOING. KEEP EVERYBODY POSTED. THANK YOU.
mr.pauls@verizon.net
Member
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2008
- Messages
- 35
I AM WONDERING WHAT HAPPENED TO ALL THESE PEOPLE THAT WERE PUTTING P/S ON THEIR TRACTORS. THEY ALL SOUNDED PRETTY POSTIVE AND SURE, BUT SEEMED TO HAVE FADED FROM THE SCENE. MAYBE THEY SOLD THEIR TRACTOR AND BOUGHT ONE WITH P/S.
grossgary
Silver Member
i'm waiting til spring/summer to play with it..if i do, i have the pump i want to use. maybe others are as well?
clarkvg
Member
Sorry, I have enlisted help so I'm not on my time, plus my wife has me on a short leash this time of year.
We have mounted the control valve and the cylinder, the hoses are made up so it won't be long before testing and fine tuning, but it may have to wait until after Christmas.
We spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to utilize the 4" stroke cylinder that came with the control valve, we couldn't, so I bought a new 8" stroke Prince cylinder from a odds and ends place for $45 (he has more of them if anyone is interested). The new hoses cost $168. So my total cost is climbing...
We drill out the tapered hole in the steering arm(s). Then through bolted the cylinder under and the control valve (JD 400) over the steering arm as Mr Pauls did. Mounted the other end of the cylinder to the loader frame. Mounted the flow divider and connected some of the hoses.
So far it looks great, but will it work?
Happy Holidays, Clark
P.S. I did find a place which sells both a power assist system for $650 complete and a hydrostatic system for $1,000, less the hoses, for the B7100 and other tractors. I will post the site if its OK? Or if there is any interests.
We have mounted the control valve and the cylinder, the hoses are made up so it won't be long before testing and fine tuning, but it may have to wait until after Christmas.
We spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to utilize the 4" stroke cylinder that came with the control valve, we couldn't, so I bought a new 8" stroke Prince cylinder from a odds and ends place for $45 (he has more of them if anyone is interested). The new hoses cost $168. So my total cost is climbing...
We drill out the tapered hole in the steering arm(s). Then through bolted the cylinder under and the control valve (JD 400) over the steering arm as Mr Pauls did. Mounted the other end of the cylinder to the loader frame. Mounted the flow divider and connected some of the hoses.
So far it looks great, but will it work?
Happy Holidays, Clark
P.S. I did find a place which sells both a power assist system for $650 complete and a hydrostatic system for $1,000, less the hoses, for the B7100 and other tractors. I will post the site if its OK? Or if there is any interests.
Thanks for the update. I've been curious about your progress. Sounds like you are well on your way. Keep us posted. Like always there are things that come up you don't anticipate, but if it were easy everyone could do it. Keep us posted. If it works as well as mine you will be very pleased with it.
clarkvg
Member
Elsie 74,
Jay finished the hoses and had trouble with it jerking to the left when he turned the steering wheel. He found that the return line from the control valve could not be teed into another return line, so he teed off under the fill cap and it works great. I think he could have been able to tee it into the relief valve hose where there is normally no pressure.
I totally agree with you that power steering makes it a much better tractor. Like yours, at low idle there doesn't seem to be enough pressure to operate the 3 point or loader. But at half power the loader and 3 pt come alive, they may operate a little slower though, its hard to tell.
I have a clamp-on steering ball ( I don't know what they are called but many of the old tractors had them on) and with a load of snow I can turn the steering wheel at a stop, one handed with it effortlessly. There is a little lag when you start turning the wheel, but once I started moving snow I didn't notice it.
For anyone considering adding power steering this is a no brainer, do it!
Thanks for all your help,
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Clark
Jay finished the hoses and had trouble with it jerking to the left when he turned the steering wheel. He found that the return line from the control valve could not be teed into another return line, so he teed off under the fill cap and it works great. I think he could have been able to tee it into the relief valve hose where there is normally no pressure.
I totally agree with you that power steering makes it a much better tractor. Like yours, at low idle there doesn't seem to be enough pressure to operate the 3 point or loader. But at half power the loader and 3 pt come alive, they may operate a little slower though, its hard to tell.
I have a clamp-on steering ball ( I don't know what they are called but many of the old tractors had them on) and with a load of snow I can turn the steering wheel at a stop, one handed with it effortlessly. There is a little lag when you start turning the wheel, but once I started moving snow I didn't notice it.
For anyone considering adding power steering this is a no brainer, do it!
Thanks for all your help,
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Clark
