Pat's Easy Change PEC and Top and tilt, not playing nice.

[High Compression]

Installed the PEC a couple of weeks ago. It has been fantastic. Fast forward to yesterday when I used my box blade for the first time with the PEC. Now that my lower links are 4" longer, I've lost 4" of usable stroke on my top link cylinder. I would hate take the PEC back off. I guess I have to take the cylinder off, cut the rod end off and weld in a 4" extension. That seems like the only logical fix to keep both my top and tilt and PEC. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have any other ideas on how to fix it?

 

[rambler]

Don't know what a PEC is, must be lower link quick connectors or something.

Might want to look into a cat 2 upper link, they might be the length you want, or find some pre-made top hyd links, think you should find them in different lengths from different places.Might be cheaper than messing around with your current one.

--->Paul

 

[jenkinsph]

If it were me I would rather modify the top hitch point on the boxblade. If you have longer tabs on the boxblade you could have two sets of holes, standard being plumb with the hitch pins and the extended holes to match up with the PEC setting without any interference problems.

 

[gwdixon]

Installed the PEC a couple of weeks ago. It has been fantastic. Fast forward to yesterday when I used my box blade for the first time with the PEC. Now that my lower links are 4" longer, I've lost 4" of usable stroke on my top link cylinder. I would hate take the PEC back off. I guess I have to take the cylinder off, cut the rod end off and weld in a 4" extension. That seems like the only logical fix to keep both my top and tilt and PEC. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone have any other ideas on how to fix it?

Very, very (did I say VERY?) common problem. Wait until you hook up a PTO shaft that is overlapping only a bit. But at least there are extensions that make up the 4".

I was able to buy the slide-in Pat's which doesn't change the length of the lower arms. If you buy a set for your L5740 the stock slide-ins will have to be measured exactly. Pat's is not too happy that the L5740 has so many configurations.

Options:
>modify the box blade with welded 4" top link attachment extension - but that means you'd have to do that will all of your equipment

>get the weld-on Pat's and sell the ones you have. You'll have to cut off the balls on the tractor's lower arms

>contact MountainViewRanch here on TBN and see if he has a top cylinder that will make up the 4". Measure the distance you need to make your attachments work (from the tractor's top link mount to the box blade mount when the Pat's are on).

>do as you mentioned and lengthen the cylinder. I'd do it at the tractor end by cutting off the ball mount and splicing in a 4" piece of plate in the correct thickness with reinforcement on the sides (like a flying buttress). A welding shop could whip this out in short order.

 

[greg_g]

I guess I have to take the cylinder off, cut the rod end off and weld in a 4" extension.

Wrong end. Cut off the tractor end swivel ball, then add your extension (bar) between the cylinder and the swivel. It will also solve the problem of crush damage to the tractor end of the cylinder (if/when you raise the lift arms too high).


//greg//

 

[Traxx]

Never mind.

 

[High Compression]

Don't know what a PEC is, must be lower link quick connectors or something.

Might want to look into a cat 2 upper link, they might be the length you want, or find some pre-made top hyd links, think you should find them in different lengths from different places.Might be cheaper than messing around with your current one.

--->Paul

Paul, PEC = Pat's Easy Change. :thumbsup: