Pin Holes and Tubing, Drill bits

[wdchyd]

Some guys weld on, what I call "Pin Bosses"........when cutting slightly oversized holes (Cut or drilled) in your sideplates, pieces are made like an extra thick washer with the right size ID, then welded on using a piece of straight pin material as a guide........

If using 1/2" sideplates you'd use probably at least 1/2" wide pin bosses (3/4 even better).....this helps when lining up the pins for squareness.......the pin bosses can be tack welded on the outside or the inside for compactness, and finish welded after you are happy with the entire project to make sure of clearance issues or the occasional OOps surprise.....

The great thing about these pin bosses is it allows you to predrill them for retainer bolts on one side and it adds to it the professional touch......or bore them for brass bushings if needed on a moving pivot.....

The only problem is you'll need access to a lathe to make these......but someone else can always make them up ahead of time.....

 

[digger2]

Look up Hougen Rotabroach.


They really work nice,i use them at work all the time.Cost more than a regular holesaw but man do they work good.A set of these with proper care used on black metal should last a guy a long time..............Digger2

 

[dfkrug]

I think I am going to buy a MT2 to 3/4" Weldon adapter and get a couple Annular cutters (1" and 1.25") and try using my drill press.

Everything I have read about Annular cutters is positive. Drill presses can cut bigger holes at faster speeds then twist bits. They last a LOOONG time. etc...

Yup. That's what I did.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/169219-annular-cutters-better-way-drill.html

 

[wvpolekat]

I will pipe in with a negative on annular cutters.

They are not very "robust" or as forgiving as regular bits. I shattered my 3/4" bit drilling through 2 pieces of 1/4" steel that were stacked. I was using my hand drill and it caught, got a bit cockeyed in the bore and shattered.

That being said, they are great. With a drill press, they are the way to go as long as you don't need a really deep hole.

 

[David Devuono]

I use Silver and Deming bits for 9/16 to 1 inch holes. You can buy a set for $35 bucks and will need a drill 500 rpm or less. Hold on tight if not using a drill press. For bigger holes I use bimetal holes saws. 500 passwords is a machine and he reamed his tubes because he was pressing in bronze bushings. Myself, I just go to a hydraulics store and buy pins and Cross Tube Cylinder ends. I cut the Cross Tubes to size and weld them. You can also see how I welded in pieces of cut up cross tube. A piece of cross tube for a 1 inch pin requires a 1 1/2 in hole saw.

 

[R W]

Have a look at a super drill at PracTool | Home
I have one of these and the are a very useful tool. Work well in a drill press set on the slowest speed. Would also be worth trying in a Mag Drill, as long as the speed is not to
high. Should also work OK in a Cole Drill (will try it one day)

 

[jmanatee2]

You can also see how I welded in pieces of cut up cross tube. A piece of cross tube for a 1 inch pin requires a 1 1/2 in hole saw.

Your picture is exactly what I was trying to describe. only I was going to face weld a piece maybe 3/4" long. Others have mentioned making the hole big enough for the tube and welding the tube in place.

The more I think about it the more I believe this would be stronger and better/smooth for the pin.

 

[davygp38]

Best thread on tbn in a while. Answered about 115 questions I had, and gave me all kinds of options. I am going to take a look at the grizzly tool site to see about the mag drill.

 

[dfkrug]

Others have mentioned making the hole big enough for the tube and welding the tube in place.

The more I think about it the more I believe this would be stronger and better/smooth for the pin.

If you cut a sloppy hole with torch or PC, and weld in a chunk of DOM,
there is no drilling at all, and the clearance in the rough-cut hole gives
you room for fine-tuning before welding.

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