Plowing Problems

[oldballs]

OK you garden plowing TBN'er......What do you think? I have used this plow (Leinbach #19), 12" single moldboard for nine years on this 50 x 100 garden.
It does not get easier even with more study and adjustments. I've replayed several of the EA videos over the years and tried to take more time to make adjustments as I go...such as adjusting the pitch and the level of the shear. Today the top couple inches of soil are dry, but the lower is heavy with moisture but not really wet. Using the Kubota B2620,.....it has no position control nor draft control, I try to adjust the plow (raise) when the engine just about stalls....which usually leaves a couple feet of unplowed ground.....which effects the next pass.
Cheers, Mike

I

 

[oosik]

Well - a couple things. It looks like you have done a pretty good job. I don't think you need to plow quite so deep. I'd go over it one more time with your drag.

I have a single bottom moldboard plow - Pittsburg. I have draft control - hydraulic top link - position control. I have NEVER done better than what you have done there.

It didn't take me long to learn that there is a whole lot more than just dragging the plow behind you.

 

[Tinhack]

...it has no position control nor draft control, I try to adjust the plow (raise) when the engine just about stalls...

How are you raising the plow if it has no position control? :confused3:

Do you know how to use draft control? I see a pin that doesn't look like it's doing anything. Do you have your 3-point set up for draft control? Many, as I do, set their linkage to the LEAST sensitive draft control when doing anything but plowing--Mowing, tilling, raking, grading, etc. It's easy to forget to put it back for plowing.

 

[Jstpssng]

I looked at your pictures and it looks pretty good, leaving me to wonder "What was your question?"
It looks like you have some pretty good soil there. Where are the rocks? (I can't make 2 passes without tripping my plow.)

 

[jaxs]

For the plow you have,that's about as good as it get's. I suggest you trade that plow for a tiller,one way drag plow,drag moldboard or 2 disk 3 point turning plow (in that order of quility of job they do). I've seen many full time farmers struggle with setting 3 point moldboard plows and their plows were far better than yours.
First off,that plow is poorly designed and will never do exceptable in heavy soil. The plow lacks a trail wheel and means of adjustment for angle. If you must stay with 3 point,beg,borrow or steal a disk type turning plow. It require's less power,simple to set and does far nicer job in heavy soil. If you have turning room,look for a drag type from the time most tractors didn't have 3 point. There's no demand so they are cheap and tough as nails. Your soil look's like it would benifit from a generous amount of organic matter. Plant cover crop in off season and start composting.

 

[oldballs]

Tinhack... When the engine begins too stall, I just bump up the 3 point to continue. Since the B2620 has no draft control or position control...I have no experience there
I've never used that lower pin. Maybe it has some function for depth of some attachments???


Jstpssng This garden has been worked for 45 years....the first 35 with a walk behind Sears front tine tiller. Life was a lot simpler then and I was a lot younger. No rocks
here. I've read on TBN that some just use their tiller and some do "no till" gardening. I'm ready for something that is easier on me and the tractor.


jaxs....... Being a tractor newbie in 2009, I bought the plow for a BX subcompact.... and since have upgraded to the B models and have a nice tiller. I was thinking of
unloading the fall collection of leaves (Cyclone Rake) into that rough plowed plot so they fall into the furrows and spaces to be tilled in the spring, but don't have
a drag...yet

oosik..... Thanks for the compliment...I tried to adjust the top link to bring the shear tip up....but it didn't seem to help. More Horse Power might have made a difference.

 

[Tx Jim]

Oldballs
Due to the fact your tractor has no draft control have you considered installing an adjustable gauge wheel to help control plowing depth. Your photo may be deceiving but moldboard plows I've utilized were designed for top frame to be level when plow bottom is in the soil.

 

[Tinhack]

Wow! I guess I didn't realize they made farm machinery without position or draft control. What's the use in having a 3-point system?

I would call that "tractor" a lawnmower but how would you even mow with an implement? You need to be able to set a relatively consistent height. Perhaps an adjustable chain to limit drop? I don't know but that sounds dangerous if used with a plow. That could flip you backwards in an instant. I can't believe Kubota would produce such a machine.

 

[oldballs]

TxJim......Thanks......A gauge wheel would help a lot as the best solution. Hum-m-m... Remind me not to post plowing problems until I install a gauge wheel.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[Egon]

When setting up the plow make sure the land slide is in line with the direction of travel and level when at furrow depth.

 

[Bavarian]

Did you ever try to adjust your top link? IMO, as longer the top link gets, as more it's sliding on the back and keeps the tip up.

The picture attached show the plow setup that I was working with as a teenager. No draft control, no hydraulics just adjustments and it worked great. I'm still missing it.

 

[52wej]

One question for you. Is the bottom of your furrow sloping or is it flat. It should be flat. You have two major adjustments on your tractor, the top link and the RH lift arm length. An old timer's trick is to get a block of wood or concrete or something that will raise the left rear wheel ( the one that is NOT in the furrow) to the depth you want in your furrow. If you want a 6" deep furrow use a 6" block. Better yet put blocks under both the front and rear left side tires. That way you are duplicating the tractor's position when plowing.

Now adjust your plow so that it is level on the ground from front to back and side to side; using the top link and the RH lift arm adjustment. Try to have just a tiny bit of downward tilt on the front plow point so it will dig in when pulling, does not take much. The side to side adjustment should have the bottom of the plow sitting flat on the ground all the way around. Notice that on your plow you have an offset on the RH pin which achieves most of the side to side adjustment, but you still may have to tweak things a bit. Do that and I think you will be happy with your results. You will still have to manually move your lift lever while plowing to see the plow from going too deep. But this should make that part easier.

Your soil sure beats the red clay we have here!! Good luck. W. Jones

 

[oldballs]

Thanks again later posters. I'm getting the picture better and better now. Since I only plow my garden once a year i forget the details from year to year. That "block" idea is a good one.

I guess the main adjustments are....The plow should be in line with the tractor..... the shear should be flat in the furrow (Right Hand Link)...the tip should be only slightly down (Top Link)... the landslide be nearly flat in the furrow ...and... I can buy a Gauge Wheel ...or ...just keep feathering the 3pt lift.

Now ....if I can get the "slightly" the "nearly" the "feathering" and my "memory" adjustments, next year should go OK:drink:

Thanks Again from OB
Mike

 

[Egon]

You should be able to limit the three point drop so it stops when the landslide is level on the furrow base. Chain usually works. Some tractors may have a chain and slot clip on them.

Your picture shows a pretty level field making on the go adjustments very limited. With maximum depth fixed there is no need for the tail wheel. If the field is bumpy and not level it’s a different story.