Another plow setup question

[Mearntain]

So I should set the chains to where the point of the plow is right at the edge of the last furrow then? Some reason I was under the impression you wanted the plow to cut an inch or so into the last furrow.

I'm hoping since I've ran over this ground twice with the new plow now and partially with the sprung plow before that, I'm hoping a combination of all those times cut all of the ground at one point. Im considering discing it and giving it one more shot with the chains stopping the plow just for good measures.

 

[Mearntain]

Just to clarify so you know what I mean, I'm not too familiar with all the names of all the plow parts yet. When I say the point, I'm talking about the point on the share on the right side of the plow, the edge of the share that the soil ejects from.

 

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

What your indicating is the "Wing of Share" which is the opposite end from the share point. The "wing of share" pointed edge needs to just barely cut the furrow wall as it turns over by the moldboard.

Check your email sent a private message.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

Yep. The point is the "leading" end. "Wing of Share" as idaho2 calls it is the trailing end.

If you want a proper result each share should plow it's appropriate length/width of soil. If the plow is too far to the right (passenger side (automotive) ) the leading share will not cut it's intended width, in your case, 14". If it's too far to the left (drivers side (automotive) ) the leading share will cut more than it's intended width. Both will leave an uneven field.

 

[Mearntain]

If you look closely in one of the pictures I posted earlier in the thread, you can see that my right bottom link isits slightly bent and twisted which is making it about 1 inch shorter in perpendicular distance from the axle to the ball on the end than the left bottom link.as a result of this (or so I think), the beams on the plow are not perfectly straight in line with the tractor when the top link is straight. I believe that replacing the right bottom link with one that is not bent, will allow the beams to be straight in line with the tractor when the top link is straight.

I just purchased a new one and am hoping this will help me track better. Am I still going to need to use check chains to stop the plow from pulling more than likely with the plow I have? Or should this hopefully make it track straight with the new bottom link on? I know it would be hard to say for sure, but just wondering what yalls thoughts are?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm running into issues when I shorten the chain to where I'm having trouble lifting the plow as high as I need to to get out the furrow. While lifting it earlier, I actually snapped the bolt holding the chain in half as the hydraulics wanted to keep lifting it further than the chain would allow.

 

[ovrszd]

The stabilizers should hang loose when plowing. Their only use is to prevent the plow from swinging into a tire when carrying it.

 

[idaho2]

Richard,

I agree the check chains should be free, but for some reason OP's plow keeps pulling to the left quite a lot. He and I are in communication and it was obvious that he had a twisted and bent Rt. lower arm. But this alone would not be the cause of the extreme Lt. pull. I have an idea of the cause but need to verify with OP.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

Richard,

I agree the check chains should be free, but for some reason OP's plow keeps pulling to the left quite a lot. He and I are in communication and it was obvious that he had a twisted and bent Rt. lower arm. But this alone would not be the cause of the extreme Lt. pull. I have an idea of the cause but need to verify with OP.

idaho2

Yeah, I don't think the bent arm would do it either. Although I understand his explanation of why he thought it might. Very curious to hear the end result of this.

Thanks for sticking with him to find resolution!!!

 

[Ford850]

Most plows have an adjustment that moves the pin or pins slightly forward or rearward. In his case, he would want the right pin to move forward, which would swing the tail of the plow to the left and correct his pulling problem. By the looks of that plow, it might not have this adjustment option. On the older Ford plows, by sliding/adjusting the main pin arm left or right also moved the pins fore and aft due to the curved slider arm. The "newer" 101 Ford plows had a separate lever to push or pull the right pin to swing that tail for a straight track.

 

[idaho2]

Ford850,

Unfortunately the OP's plow does not have this option. Knowing that what other options does he have. Have you looked at his "Flickr picture" attachment, post #37. Gives you a good idea of what is going on. I suggested he move the draw bar to the original location. Plow a few feet and check the level of the plow, with out lifting out of the ground. He may need to move the draw bar another 2" to the left. Plow 50' and see what it's doing. I wonder if the second bottom is sucking more than the first and causing the Left pull. His photo is causing me to lean to that observation just from the photo at this time.

idaho2