Plowing with a 30 Hp Compact tractor

[daTeacha]

You really need to search here about how to set up the plow or ask someone like FarmwithJunk or others who have enough experience to tell you how to do it. The depth, pitch, and side to side angle are critical to making the job go well. Keep in mind you likely will be driving with the right side of the tractor in a furrow and the left side up on higher ground. At a minumum, you want both plows running at the same depth when the tractor is pulling, not sitting on level ground. You want the coulters set to cut the sod directly in front of the shares, and the moldboards may need extensions to help roll things over. When the plow is at working depth, you want the bottoms of the shares pretty close to level so it neither tries to dig inself into the ground deeper nor keeps climbing out. All these things are set up by adjusting the plow and/or tractor properly.

 

[Barneyhunts]

Thanks everyone for your input. It certainly gives me a lot to think about. WRT coulters, I wonder how they work in rocky soil as I have a lot of rocks. In fact, I considered using a rototiller on my BX2200 (22Hp sub compact) but when I used it to break ground in my garden It nearly shook my teeth out, though, it's great now that I've taken most of the rocks out. I plan to disc the ground after I plow it with a Disc harrow like a King Kutter 5"6" box frame , and then plant it to corn, sorghum and other appropriate wildlife foods / cover.

 

[Barneyhunts]

Just a few thoughts...loose the loader when plowing. The stress put on the tractor bouncing around on rough furrows. and when hooking a rock could push the front axle or torque tube to failure. Hydro transmissions are not the best suited for this kind of work. I would keep the plow to a 1 bot 14" at the most. That does refer to the sizs of the furrow the plow makes (the plow share size and beam spacing. Find a speed that turns the furrow over completley. If the sod stands up go faster, if it throws pieces of sod slow down. 3pt plows can be tricky to set up if you lack experience. A 1 bot plow is a LOT more forgiving in this respect. Time lost with a smaller plow will quickly be recouped in secondary tillage by having a quality plow job. There was a reason that the old farmer did the plowing and the young sons did the disking and harrowing. 30 hp is plenty of power. If it feels like the tractor is bogging down, check the plow settings. Set wrong the plow can need almost twice as much hp th pull. Good luck Mike

Mike, do you think plowing will damage the hydro transmission? Thanks for the pointers on what to watch for when plowing.

 

[Barneyhunts]

You really need to search here about how to set up the plow or ask someone like FarmwithJunk or others who have enough experience to tell you how to do it. The depth, pitch, and side to side angle are critical to making the job go well. Keep in mind you likely will be driving with the right side of the tractor in a furrow and the left side up on higher ground. At a minumum, you want both plows running at the same depth when the tractor is pulling, not sitting on level ground. You want the coulters set to cut the sod directly in front of the shares, and the moldboards may need extensions to help roll things over. When the plow is at working depth, you want the bottoms of the shares pretty close to level so it neither tries to dig inself into the ground deeper nor keeps climbing out. All these things are set up by adjusting the plow and/or tractor properly.

Thanks for the tips - since I haven't any experience these are really helpful.

 

[vallyfarm]

The land I own is a lot of clay and rocks. VERY hard on a tractor. I have to run with NO coulters. Otherwise I would be on and off the tractor evert few feet with a rock jamed. I plowed a few acres last year that hadn't been worked since the 50's. No sod flopped back in the furrow. If it did, I know my ground speed is too slow. With rocks 1 bottom is by far the best. If one share bounces or hooks a rock, only that furrow is affected, not 2 or 3. I must have at least 50 hours plowing with a Super A..pulling a 1 bot 12" plow. There aren't many machines that can plow 1/2 as good as that machine. The field looks disked and harrowed when done, and I'll set that plow at least 10" deep, often having the beam to the sod. Small plows work better through rocky soil. Less area to hit on any given pass. Hydro transmissions are not at tough as gears. Metal to metal contact will withstand shock better than high hydraulic pressure and seals that spike pressure when contact is made with a rock. Don't get me wrong, they have come a long way, but I don't know one that would/could take the abuse of my 1952 Farmall Super H. Not a one of them. Gear trannys have gotten weaker over the years too. A small 1 bot plow is by far the safest way to go through rocks. It will also cause the least wear and tear on the equipment. It is also ALOT easier to set up than a multi-share plow. If you want some tips on how to set them up, just let me know. I've been doing it for 30 yrs, and still do a lot of plowing with a 1 bot plow. Mike

 

[Barneyhunts]

I have a Lienbach Line, 12 inch two bottom plow that I pulled last year with a 33hp with the same setup you mentioned. It did well but for the most part I could not go out of range 1 without losing some power on demand. I pulled it through various types of ground and success was ok, if you will. One thing you never mentioned was if you have coulters on the unit. If not, you will definitely experience false flips(fall backs)....especially in sod ground or ground that has been allowed to grow and establish a root system from the ground cover. The coulters will cut through this and allow it to flip nicely. Without coulters will allow a lot of the furrows to fall back to where they were.....real pain.

I think you can get the job done. If you dont have coulters I highly recommend you do so. They will also keep you from getting off the tractor every 30 feet and pulling off roots and buildup from the sheers.

Is your tractor a hydrostatic and if so did you have any problems with that while plowing?
THANKS!

 

[milkman]

You shouldn't have any problem pulling 2 12's with your 30hp and ag tires, the old myth that you can't plow with a hydro trans sure seems to die hard, and the front axle won't break if you plow with the loader attached. Some pics of 22hp hydro w/14" single bottom.

 

[Ford850]

Depends how much you plan to plow too. If they are smaller food plots I would stick with a 1 bottom plow so you can keep your speed up and turn the soil completely. You will have better rolled sod and soil if you are moving faster. And if you are moving faster you will make up some of the time lost by using a one bottom compared to a 2 bottom.
On an old '53 ford jubilee, we have used a nice 2 bottom with colters for years. Always fighting with the partially turned rows due to borderline power/speed. Last year we swithed to a cheap TSC 1 bottom without colters, and it plows MUCH better. Smooth and completely turned rows, and we get done in the same amount of time. Less disc work to do aftwards too since the field is in better shape.

 

[daTeacha]

You shouldn't have any problem pulling 2 12's with your 30hp and ag tires, the old myth that you can't plow with a hydro trans sure seems to die hard, and the front axle won't break if you plow with the loader attached. Some pics of 22hp hydro w/14" single bottom.

While I agree that he should be easily able to pull 2 12s, and probably 2 14s with that tractor, I think the "myth" you refer to is that a hydro will not pull as hard as a gear tractor with the same engine, which is something I agree with. I know my hydro DX29 seems far less willing to work hard than my old Kubota B7100 was, despite being a couple of sizes bigger. It's not an apples to apples comparison, but it just seems the engine/hydro bogs down quicker than the engine/foot throttle/gear tranny did.

I know there are power to weight ratio issues here, so that is not a definitive statement by any means. Does anyone happen to have two tractors of the same model, one gear and one hydro, to compare outright pulling ability when hooked to a plow?

 

[Outdoor Essentials LLC]

I used mine with a TC33D with Hydro and it pulled it fine. There were times when it would bog down and comparing it to a gear driven tractor, I would have to say without a doubt, the geared tractor will outperform.