Pole barn costs - got some quotes. Fair price?
- Thread starter RobA
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PineRidge
Super Member
Thanks John for the quick reply and answering my questions.
I built a 40x60 Nucor I-beam type commercial steel building in 2004 with the following specs;
-14' side walls
-2:12 pitch, stitch down i.e. screwed roof (not standing seam which is nicer, but VERY expensive)
-12" overhangs on all sides
-Commercial style gutters that match the eve trim
-Two 12x12 insulated overhead steel doors with openers and 3 insulated windows each
-One 8x8 insulated overhead steel door with 2 insulated windows
-Two insulated comercial steel man doors and 3 insulated windows
-Fully insulated with 4" fiberglass insulation.
-6" thick concrete floors with radiant heat and fully insulated under the slab
-65'x20' concrete apron on one side of building and 8'x10' apron in front of smaller overhead door
-Plumbed for future restroom
-Floor drains in front of each of the 3 overhead doors
-A 20x20 enclosed area in one corner for a future office, with mezzanine storage above it rated at about 45 PSF per foot. If this starts to sag I will build a wall in the middle (which will be there anyway for the future office) and then weight capacity is virtually unlimited
-Fully wired with EMT conduit, a ton of recepts, and lights are nine 175 watt commercial metal halide lights, as well as 15 2'x4' four bulb flourescent ceiling lights hung from 3/16" steel cables. I also have four 2 bulb x 8' flourescent ceiling lights as well as a 400 watt metal halide floodlight outside between the two large doors which really produces a LOT of light when needed on the apron and driveway. The flourescent lights are used for instant light, and the metal halides are used when I will be working in the shop for a while as they take about 5 minutes to fully power up.
I really like the I-beam construction as the building is very open inside, which is especially important in the mezzanine storage area. And I could hang an overhead lift from the beams in the future if I wanted to.
I did the outside concrete work, all electrical, plumbing and radiant tubing installation and the mezzanine storage area work myself. At this time I have about $52k in it, which is more then I wanted, but in construction it seems that things always cost more then expected. For one thing, the site sloped enough that in 60' I needed 3' of fill on the low end which amounted to 23 tri-axle loads of fill dirt. I have less then $500 in all the lights, as all were used except the floodlight which I bought on ebay for $70, but the conduit, wire, switches, etc were over a grand, as I have almost a mile of THHN wire in the building. Radiant heating added another $2,500 just for the tubing and underslab insulation, but it sure is nice. I got a great deal on 24 like new TGI floor joists for $100 for the mezzanine floor supports. Normally these sell for $1.69 per linear foot, while I paid about $0.21 a linear foot.
The building, insulation, man doors and all fasteners were a little less then $14,000 from www.steelbuildingsupplier.com in 2003, but erection was about $13k and footers, foundations and interior concrete and sitework was around $14k. I think steel buildings are higher now, as I bought it just before steel prices increased. But one thing with buying over the Internet and from out of state, there was no sales tax on the building, even though it was mfg only 45 miles from my house and in my state.
I really like my building, but would I do it again? Probably, as the quality is a lot better then a pole building and I don't have to ever worry about the posts rotting off. The steel is also heavier, as all metal is 24 gauge as compared to 27 or 29 gauge normally used on pole barns. I had a quote of $32k for the same 40x60 building in a pole barn including concrete, but no site work beyond drilling holes for the posts, so the fill would have added another $3k to the job. One advantage of a pole barn and wood trusses is that it would have been much easier to install the electric as I could just have run Romex everywhere.
The key in this type of project is the contractor, as I had to fire the first guy because he wasn't getting the job done or doing it the way I wanted. This cost me an extra $3k, so it was a learning experience. I took him to small claim court, and won a judgement against him and his wife. I garnished her wages and got some of my money back until they filed bankruptcy and I was out of the balance they still owed me. Oh well, live and learn.
I am thinking about building another building just strictly for storage purposes without even pouring a concrete floor. Kinda of like most farm machine sheds. For this, I would probably build a pole barn, as it would be by far the cheapest option.
-14' side walls
-2:12 pitch, stitch down i.e. screwed roof (not standing seam which is nicer, but VERY expensive)
-12" overhangs on all sides
-Commercial style gutters that match the eve trim
-Two 12x12 insulated overhead steel doors with openers and 3 insulated windows each
-One 8x8 insulated overhead steel door with 2 insulated windows
-Two insulated comercial steel man doors and 3 insulated windows
-Fully insulated with 4" fiberglass insulation.
-6" thick concrete floors with radiant heat and fully insulated under the slab
-65'x20' concrete apron on one side of building and 8'x10' apron in front of smaller overhead door
-Plumbed for future restroom
-Floor drains in front of each of the 3 overhead doors
-A 20x20 enclosed area in one corner for a future office, with mezzanine storage above it rated at about 45 PSF per foot. If this starts to sag I will build a wall in the middle (which will be there anyway for the future office) and then weight capacity is virtually unlimited
-Fully wired with EMT conduit, a ton of recepts, and lights are nine 175 watt commercial metal halide lights, as well as 15 2'x4' four bulb flourescent ceiling lights hung from 3/16" steel cables. I also have four 2 bulb x 8' flourescent ceiling lights as well as a 400 watt metal halide floodlight outside between the two large doors which really produces a LOT of light when needed on the apron and driveway. The flourescent lights are used for instant light, and the metal halides are used when I will be working in the shop for a while as they take about 5 minutes to fully power up.
I really like the I-beam construction as the building is very open inside, which is especially important in the mezzanine storage area. And I could hang an overhead lift from the beams in the future if I wanted to.
I did the outside concrete work, all electrical, plumbing and radiant tubing installation and the mezzanine storage area work myself. At this time I have about $52k in it, which is more then I wanted, but in construction it seems that things always cost more then expected. For one thing, the site sloped enough that in 60' I needed 3' of fill on the low end which amounted to 23 tri-axle loads of fill dirt. I have less then $500 in all the lights, as all were used except the floodlight which I bought on ebay for $70, but the conduit, wire, switches, etc were over a grand, as I have almost a mile of THHN wire in the building. Radiant heating added another $2,500 just for the tubing and underslab insulation, but it sure is nice. I got a great deal on 24 like new TGI floor joists for $100 for the mezzanine floor supports. Normally these sell for $1.69 per linear foot, while I paid about $0.21 a linear foot.
The building, insulation, man doors and all fasteners were a little less then $14,000 from www.steelbuildingsupplier.com in 2003, but erection was about $13k and footers, foundations and interior concrete and sitework was around $14k. I think steel buildings are higher now, as I bought it just before steel prices increased. But one thing with buying over the Internet and from out of state, there was no sales tax on the building, even though it was mfg only 45 miles from my house and in my state.
I really like my building, but would I do it again? Probably, as the quality is a lot better then a pole building and I don't have to ever worry about the posts rotting off. The steel is also heavier, as all metal is 24 gauge as compared to 27 or 29 gauge normally used on pole barns. I had a quote of $32k for the same 40x60 building in a pole barn including concrete, but no site work beyond drilling holes for the posts, so the fill would have added another $3k to the job. One advantage of a pole barn and wood trusses is that it would have been much easier to install the electric as I could just have run Romex everywhere.
The key in this type of project is the contractor, as I had to fire the first guy because he wasn't getting the job done or doing it the way I wanted. This cost me an extra $3k, so it was a learning experience. I took him to small claim court, and won a judgement against him and his wife. I garnished her wages and got some of my money back until they filed bankruptcy and I was out of the balance they still owed me. Oh well, live and learn.
I am thinking about building another building just strictly for storage purposes without even pouring a concrete floor. Kinda of like most farm machine sheds. For this, I would probably build a pole barn, as it would be by far the cheapest option.
mikim
Veteran Member
pouring the 30x50 slab on Monday for an all metal 30x50x12 with a 20x50 leanto - 2- 10x10 rollup doors, 1-36" steel walk in door, 1- 3x3 window and 1- 3x6 window, fully insulated, low profile ridge vent, #3 rebar in the slab, #5 in the footers..... I put in 2 slab penetrations for me to run in elect & plumbing later. $32k total breakdown on that is $8250 for slab - $6000 erection labor - $17,750 materials
scesnick
Veteran Member
srs said:
There is something fishy here. When I called Morton about my 30x40x10 building they quoted me a price of $34,750. Now I'm not saying that your $25,000 quote is a lie. ( And im surely not calling you a liar ) I am saying something is up with Morton buildings. This is like the third time I have heard that Morton was cheaper for roughly the same building, Then I also heard of a higher price then my quote.
Are they running their business like used car salesmen where it depends on what day of the week you call them? I don't get it???
Dargo
Super Member
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Gees, those prices sound really good. I have a 60X80 barn and my cost was considerably more. I did have the trusses made to be able to hold a sheetrock ceiling, a 12" overhang (just didn't look right without that), insulated roof and walls, 12' X 16' main overhead door, 8' X 12' rear door, two walk through doors a few windows, floor drains, 16X20 office with toilet, sink, and shower, and a 10" 5000 psi reinforced floor. I did the 200 amp electrical service myself. I have a 14' height inside from concrete floor to ceiling. I need to add on because I'm out of room, but I already have way more than you guys are talking about in costs, and I did quite a bit of the labor myself.
flusher
Super Member
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Interesting thread. Price info particularly interesting.
In June 05 I had a metal pole frame garage/shop built.
24'x48', 12' wall height, 1.5:1 roof pitch, two 10'x10' rollup doors, one 36" man door, one 24"x48" window.
Concrete floor: 6" thick, #4 rebar on 24" criss cross.
Building cost $16,000. Concrete work: $7500
Prices in this thread pretty much what I would have expected.
In June 05 I had a metal pole frame garage/shop built.
24'x48', 12' wall height, 1.5:1 roof pitch, two 10'x10' rollup doors, one 36" man door, one 24"x48" window.
Concrete floor: 6" thick, #4 rebar on 24" criss cross.
Building cost $16,000. Concrete work: $7500
Prices in this thread pretty much what I would have expected.
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texasjohn
Super Member
Well, Dargo, you hit on electrical service ... 200 amp. That sounds like a lot.. I'm wondering why you needed that much?
I'm still wondering what service I should bring to my 40X60 building.
I'm thinking that 50 amps should do it...
Anybody see it differently? Critique invited. I know that more is better... but I will have to run 220 from the transformer pole underground 175 feet to the building and 4 gauge wire is EXPENSIVE.
I will have lights inside and some outside for occasional general lighting, all energy efficient flourescent, etc. The only major power draw will be a welder... 20 amps 220volts max draw. Other than that, I will be the only one working in the building with, at most, the following stuff running at once:
Welder and lights or
shop vacuum
table saw
lights
air compressor
Is 50 amps sufficient in your experience?
I'm still wondering what service I should bring to my 40X60 building.
I'm thinking that 50 amps should do it...
Anybody see it differently? Critique invited. I know that more is better... but I will have to run 220 from the transformer pole underground 175 feet to the building and 4 gauge wire is EXPENSIVE.
I will have lights inside and some outside for occasional general lighting, all energy efficient flourescent, etc. The only major power draw will be a welder... 20 amps 220volts max draw. Other than that, I will be the only one working in the building with, at most, the following stuff running at once:
Welder and lights or
shop vacuum
table saw
lights
air compressor
Is 50 amps sufficient in your experience?
QRTRHRS
Elite Member
No matter who you go with, I would want to see some of the builders other work before you sign the deal. The Amish and Mennonite builders can easily outbid others because they don't have the overhead. Their work is usually consistent barn to barn as well. I delivered building materials for a builder with about ten crews on for awhile. Some crews did a much better job than others. You do want to know exactly what you are getting for materials though. You want to know the post depth, poured concrete, dry bag, or precast footer. You want uplift prevention blocks on your posts if there is no concrete poured around the post (this practice is always open for discussion). The posts usually have a .60 retention rating, accept nothing less. Does your design include overhangs, eave and peak ventilation? Even if you plan to insulate later, at least consider solar guard (bubble wrap with foil which is the same as efoil?) under the roof steel. This will almost completely negate condensation. You did consult your locallity for code checks?
At 40 miles northwest of Philly, you have an advantage of being in a very competetive market. I used a Mennonite builder for my last barn with good results.
At 40 miles northwest of Philly, you have an advantage of being in a very competetive market. I used a Mennonite builder for my last barn with good results.
Farwell
Veteran Member
I ran a 220 volt service to my pole barn using #2 aluminum wire knowing that my end result would be around 70 amps due to approximately 200 foot distance. 50 amps may be a little low depending on what you plan on running at the same time. If you are doing some heavy welding, have a 10 horse power air compressor that kicks on, electric heat, and other people using power equipment you may need more than 50 amps. If you want the full 50 amps available, take into consideration the wire size and the distance of the wire run from the source.
Also check the wire price. 250 feet of #12 with ground...$139 at ACE Hardware, $96 at Home Depot, $106 at my local electric supply store. I can't even begin to imagine what 250 feet of three legs of #2 direct burial copper wire costs. I would have to take out a second mortgage on my house to pay for it.
Farwell
Also check the wire price. 250 feet of #12 with ground...$139 at ACE Hardware, $96 at Home Depot, $106 at my local electric supply store. I can't even begin to imagine what 250 feet of three legs of #2 direct burial copper wire costs. I would have to take out a second mortgage on my house to pay for it.
Farwell
