Pole Barn Sliding Door Problems
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soal man
Member
It may be the camera angle, but the door doesn't look square to me. Looks like a very poor job. I wouldn't accept it.
Why do you say that?
ITHINKICAN
Gold Member
The company we hired told us at our first interview - they don't hang doors - I was offended because they had the most amount of recommendations. But now I am starting to understand why. It looks like door hanging requires a special gift of expertise.
Did you all ready pay the last installment? If not - don't. Does your contract have a provision for defective items, below average results or any warranty type items? The area you live isn't shown by your member name - is your County/State pro homeowner or pro contractor? Around here if work isn't performed in a "workmanlike manner" the Court would make them repair or refund the money. If nothing else- can you get pictures of properly hung doors from other pole barn owners? And then show them to the company you used?
I sure hope it works out. One of my greatest fears is having work done by someone - and it not being done correctly. It isn't easy.
Did you all ready pay the last installment? If not - don't. Does your contract have a provision for defective items, below average results or any warranty type items? The area you live isn't shown by your member name - is your County/State pro homeowner or pro contractor? Around here if work isn't performed in a "workmanlike manner" the Court would make them repair or refund the money. If nothing else- can you get pictures of properly hung doors from other pole barn owners? And then show them to the company you used?
I sure hope it works out. One of my greatest fears is having work done by someone - and it not being done correctly. It isn't easy.
tlbuser
Veteran Member
From my experience trying to fix a couple of these. Same reason I suggested rechecking the building's plumb and square. Have found at least one of these "builders" that believes if the frame bolts together, it's good. They then employ a "cut to fit" philosophy for siding and trim.
Does the word 'craptastic' mean anything? Roofs/walls/etc: You work from the bottom up, layer wise, to shed water. You want the top and the bottom of the door to cover as much of the opening as you can. On prevailing storm sides of the barn especially (I have snow issues with it working over the top of my doors). Another detail most leave out are foam fillers between the tops of the siding and the framing (wind, rain/snow). You can make your own later out of foam (I used pipe insulation) with a knife or a hacksaw blade and slide them up under the top edging.
Time to document every detail of this barn.
Then see if you can find someone with knowledge to come out and tell you what is done wrong. Even pay them an inspection fee.
Read this, lots of good info. Most pole barn material is similar (if not the same). A few companies use brand unique products, but hopefully not yours (and those companies sell only through specific dealers/installers).
http://www.metalsales.us.com/files/installation-guides/PostFrameInstallGuide.pdf
Time to document every detail of this barn.
Then see if you can find someone with knowledge to come out and tell you what is done wrong. Even pay them an inspection fee.
Read this, lots of good info. Most pole barn material is similar (if not the same). A few companies use brand unique products, but hopefully not yours (and those companies sell only through specific dealers/installers).
http://www.metalsales.us.com/files/installation-guides/PostFrameInstallGuide.pdf
Wooddust
Silver Member
As they say, This won't end well. Id try to find anyone but your builder to re do the door.
mojoinco, craptastic is exactly right! The more I snoop the more I find. I haven't had much time to inspect between work and the holiday preps, but this morning I decided to go look around for a few minutes. I noticed some water on the floor, looked up and saw daylight........ lots of daylight. The roof was sweating so badly it was raining in the building. I don't have a ladder tall enough to get to it, but judging by the amount of daylight, they didn't run the vented closures all the way down the ridge. They also didn't use closures anywhere else in the building. They didn't use any tape on the rake trim or any other joints so this thing is pretty much open to the elements. I'm wondering why they even offer insulation, which I paid extra for. Next week I am going to find an independent building inspector and pay for a professional inspection and report. At this pint I doubt it will do any good, but it's worth a shot. When I told the salesman I wanted an inspection, he got snippy and told me there was nobody in the state more qualified than his boss and rattled off his credentials. Needless to say, I wasn't impressed. At this point I am wondering if I will just need to hire someone else to take the thing back to the frame and do it all over again. Or try to do it myself. Anyway, sorry for the rant, but I am not at all happy right now!
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It aint rocket science!
Like anything else, some knowledge ((the link to the manual I posted isn't the only one out there -- all are similar).
All you need is time, a few tools (driver, belt with driver loop, shears <angled handle so your hand doesn't ride along the sharp just-cut-edges>, tape measure, marker, square). And a couple of ladders (I prefer 3 legged electrician type). Nothing hard.
As another person posted, it would be great if they built square and level. Makes installation much easier.
The door metal can be taller than the opening, as you adjust the hangers from the inside. Use stabilized wood for the frame (dried, or even a laminated type product). Wife took out the door hanger on her barn last year with a tractor (doors and gates around here are also called 'tractor magnets'). I had bought a 2x6 to replace a piece of the door (she was sure I was <still> WRONG on that one). Finally fixed the twist in it. The nice part about it was the wood was dry (I bought it the year before, but needed an excuse to bring it to the top of the list).
You may want to query the inspector on the legal process to get a contractor to repair his work == and check to see about his insurance and when it ends and how much it is worth. My Mom finally finished that with a bum contractor. Fortunately she found a good one. And was able to recover some of the costs (took a year; and only got 10~20%).
Bummer pics! You can't see all the issues, I'd bet, due to the insulation. If you take of the siding, something to consider are the see through siding panels. My shop has them in a 2~3 ft strip around the top (older versions look like opaque fiberglass; newer looks like clear plastic). Adds a lot of indirect light around the top of the building.
Like anything else, some knowledge ((the link to the manual I posted isn't the only one out there -- all are similar).
All you need is time, a few tools (driver, belt with driver loop, shears <angled handle so your hand doesn't ride along the sharp just-cut-edges>, tape measure, marker, square). And a couple of ladders (I prefer 3 legged electrician type). Nothing hard.
As another person posted, it would be great if they built square and level. Makes installation much easier.
The door metal can be taller than the opening, as you adjust the hangers from the inside. Use stabilized wood for the frame (dried, or even a laminated type product). Wife took out the door hanger on her barn last year with a tractor (doors and gates around here are also called 'tractor magnets'). I had bought a 2x6 to replace a piece of the door (she was sure I was <still> WRONG on that one). Finally fixed the twist in it. The nice part about it was the wood was dry (I bought it the year before, but needed an excuse to bring it to the top of the list).
You may want to query the inspector on the legal process to get a contractor to repair his work == and check to see about his insurance and when it ends and how much it is worth. My Mom finally finished that with a bum contractor. Fortunately she found a good one. And was able to recover some of the costs (took a year; and only got 10~20%).
Bummer pics! You can't see all the issues, I'd bet, due to the insulation. If you take of the siding, something to consider are the see through siding panels. My shop has them in a 2~3 ft strip around the top (older versions look like opaque fiberglass; newer looks like clear plastic). Adds a lot of indirect light around the top of the building.
