Polebarn lean-to posts

[EddieWalker]

Interesting design. I wonder how much more money it will cost to do something like that compared to drilling a hole with a post hold digger and sticking a post in the hole, then backfilling with dirt? Then I wonder if there is a significat strength increase going that method? Not factoring in time, which is probably significant, the only expense to putting the wooden post in the ground is the rental or purchase of the post hole digger.

Of course, if you realy want to dig your holes with a backhoe, that method sure looks like a winner!!!!!!

Eddie

 

[shinnlinger]

I used the "Big Foot"form on my barn 3 years ago and was happy with them

 

[PCABE5]

Then I wonder if there is a significat strength increase going that method?
Eddie

The obvious strenght increase is preventing downward movement because of the larger footing size verses just the size of a 6x6 and the flared design creates added resistance on the upward movement due to frost and wind in this case. You can buy the plastic tubes or make your own flared footing like I had described earlier which is cheaper because your not buying a plastic tube you wouldn't need. I would still use a PHD for any hole 24" or less as it is so much quicker and the surrounding soil is undisturbed.

 

[catvet]

Not suggesting this for a barn but have you seen the redifooting system? Apparently you can do it all with plastic. Don't need no blankty-blank concrete or Pressure treated in ground.

 

[fishpick]

You know - I'm really tempted after seeing the strong opinions here - to ask the following question:
"After the lean to is built and I want to add a light under it - should I use wire-nuts or solder the wires"
Good points all around - I kinda like that footer design and the taper - was thinking I might do a modified version of that with a homemade form - then back-fill the holes.
FWIW to those that are concerned with compaction - my soil is of a composition such that making it wet when I back-fill - then watering it well - letting it sit - and re-watering it - it will become almost hard as rock (Bluebird Meadow Farms: Preparing for the pour - part 2)
It really self compacts very well - add in a tamper - and I'm comfortable with my plans.

 

[chatcher]

There are a few competing theories on how to set a post. The common method around here, and the one I used, was to dig the post holes below frost line, pour in a slug of concrete, let it set, and set the poles on TOP of the concrete, filling around the poles with dirt. The idea as I understand it is to give the posts a solid bottom so they don't settle, but let the framing of the building locate, level, and brace the posts. As for wind lifting the building, my guess is the pitch of the roof tends to transfer horizontal wind pressure into DOWNWARD pressure on the posts, but I am not an engineer...

 

[Blagadan]

Footings for lean-to structures have to be stronger than if you were building a walled structure for the very reason EddieWalker suggested. I have seen lean-to's pull huge lumps of concrete out of the ground. Like a spinnaker on a yacht, A lean-to will yield huge upward energy given the right circumstances.

Heres another way I've seen it done...

 

[fishpick]

Blagadan - like the artwork!

 

[philbuilt]

On the footing tube I wonder if you could reuse the plastic tube? If and when the snow will go away I have a spot to try it and can report back. They are smooth inside. Set, pour,wait overnight, and tap on the outside and try to lift off. It just may work.
Phil