Pond Edge Maintainence

[bcp]

I have killed over 12 snakes around my small lake already this year....and that is with a clean edge. I can't imagine how bad it would be if I had a strip of tall uncut grass near the edge.

Besides, I would really beat myself up if one of my kids were bitten by a cottonmouth who was hiding in the tall grass on the edge of the water when I had the opportunity to greatly reduce the odds by keeping the grass cut.

I think if I had that problem, the pond bank would soon be concrete!

Bruce

 

[foreman Etexas]

My problem with tall grass is that I don't want the "wildlife". Especially when the wildlife can send you to the hospital or even the morgue. I have killed over 12 snakes around my small lake already this year....and that is with a clean edge. I can't imagine how bad it would be if I had a strip of tall uncut grass near the edge.

Besides, I would really beat myself up if one of my kids were bitten by a cottonmouth who was hiding in the tall grass on the edge of the water when I had the opportunity to greatly reduce the odds by keeping the grass cut.

True,very true:thumbsup: I usually dont cut all the way around are ponds just not possible but I do mow several different spots so the boys can fish there,I usually back my shredder(pull-type) down to water level,this year used my hay cutter to clean pond up in hay meadow.

 

[droy]

Our pond is located in the pasture, which we generally try to cut every two weeks, something I have done at the banks edge, is to cut the grass, then when almost time to cut again, spray a contact killer, i.e. Roundup, but in a weakened solution, like 1/2 the normal "kill dosage". Puts most of the vegetation into shock; no growth, but no kill. Try a weak solution, not to kill the vegetation, then adjust the strength if needed. Usually get about three - four weeks of no growth.

 

[PhysAssist]

Our pond is located in the pasture, which we generally try to cut every two weeks, something I have done at the banks edge, is to cut the grass, then when almost time to cut again, spray a contact killer, i.e. Roundup, but in a weakened solution, like 1/2 the normal "kill dosage". Puts most of the vegetation into shock; no growth, but no kill. Try a weak solution, not to kill the vegetation, then adjust the strength if needed. Usually get about three - four weeks of no growth.

The problem is I'm also trying not to kill our frogs, toads, non-veomous snakes, and most of all our fish... :confused2:

 

[droy]

The problem is I'm also trying not to kill our frogs, toads, non-veomous snakes, and most of all our fish... :confused2:

On the road now, otherwise I would post some pics of our pond- Ducks, fish, turtles, snakes, bullfrogs, big bullfrogs, (about 20-30 adults in a half acre pond), ducks, turtles, more ducks, still more turtles....did I mention ducks?

Estimated half acre pond with island in center, home to approx. 75 flying Mallards, Khaki Campbell, English Callers, 3 semi tame Wood Ducks, 6 more wild Woodies that visit around feed time; 5 Toulouse Geese. An assortment of Snowy Egrets, and some cranes that I do not know the name of keep the sun perch population in check.
If anyone wants some ducks, I'm in southwest LA, near Lake Charles; free, but you catch'em. Would like to thin out population to about 10 Mallards, to many, they are bad for feeding along the waters edge until they undercut the bank. Some places they can swim under the grass ledge it is so eroded.

I do understand your concern; I to was worried, but after a friend of a friend laid his tractor over in his pond while cutting grass, (his ducks had weakened the edge of his pond I am told). I started spraying. My pond edge is so bad, whenever I do cut, I use the riding mower, and first walk the perimeter. I try to spray, then when the grass starts growing, cut it a couple of times before spraying again. I am tempted to try to construct an offset wiper, I understand there is virtually no drift with those.

Anyway sorry for the ramble, and good luck with your endeavor; Lots of good ideas are usually tossed around a post such as yours, one of the reasons I like to visit.

 

[PhysAssist]

On the road now, otherwise I would post some pics of our pond- Ducks, fish, turtles, snakes, bullfrogs, big bullfrogs, (about 20-30 adults in a half acre pond), ducks, turtles, more ducks, still more turtles....did I mention ducks?

Estimated half acre pond with island in center, home to approx. 75 flying Mallards, Khaki Campbell, English Callers, 3 semi tame Wood Ducks, 6 more wild Woodies that visit around feed time; 5 Toulouse Geese. An assortment of Snowy Egrets, and some cranes that I do not know the name of keep the sun perch population in check.
If anyone wants some ducks, I'm in southwest LA, near Lake Charles; free, but you catch'em. Would like to thin out population to about 10 Mallards, to many, they are bad for feeding along the waters edge until they undercut the bank. Some places they can swim under the grass ledge it is so eroded.

I do understand your concern; I to was worried, but after a friend of a friend laid his tractor over in his pond while cutting grass, (his ducks had weakened the edge of his pond I am told). I started spraying. My pond edge is so bad, whenever I do cut, I use the riding mower, and first walk the perimeter. I try to spray, then when the grass starts growing, cut it a couple of times before spraying again. I am tempted to try to construct an offset wiper, I understand there is virtually no drift with those.

Anyway sorry for the ramble, and good luck with your endeavor; Lots of good ideas are usually tossed around a post such as yours, one of the reasons I like to visit.

HI DRoy, and thanks!

We used to have a few ducks of the Ruen breed, but one really cold winter when the pond nearly froze over completely, one of them got eaten by a fox, and we had to catch and relocate the rest to somewhere that wouldn't freeze-over, so they could evade the local predators.

The pond had become really quiet until after they left- they ate so many bullfrogs there were none left to croak at night [or they were afraid to].

BTW, our banks are getting under-cut and eroded away to dangerous overhangs even without the ducks- it seems like the fish are doing it as they eat the roots of the grass, etc.

We do get a wood duck couple swing in each spring for a few days of debauchery, and then they disappear until the next year, although they do occasionally pop back in with their babies for swimming lessons in the early summer.

The "rambling" is one of those things that [for me at least] makes the TBN forums fun to read.

Thanks again and be safe!
Thomas

 

[Rara Avis]

I have researching these options and have yet to make a decision because of lack of funding. I believe the best options are in the following order:

1. Boom mower
2. Batwing mower
3. Sickle mower
4. Backing rotary cutter toward the water
5. Push mower/string trimmer

Due to a lack of funding, I am currently using numbers 4 and 5.

You left a Ventrac off your list...
Ventrac Securely Mows Steep Pond Banks | Ventrac Blog

 

[joesmith]

just read your post and had the same idea, just bought jd 350 sickle 7' and after a little repair i used it once. it works great stay on top of dam and reaches the water edge. so far i am out about $600. but my back will not allow me to do the brushcutter anymore. there are a lot of these and other brands out there but i would encourage you to do the research and make sure of what you need then what you can afford and if there are still parts available. i looked at several and found some people can be very creative about there advertiseing. good luck and keep us posted. joe

 

[JoeBuyer]

I have a pond approx 2acre and this is what i did. It's probably not the safest idea out there, but it works great, and it doesnt blow the trimmings into the water.<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=271410"/>

Very clever and within budget. This is a crazy good idea, you could even put a few bolt holes in at a higher elevation on the far side of that tube steel to go down a slope. I also would point the chute backwards instead of at the driver. Is that 2" tube?

Unfortunately with about 4000' of creek edge taken over partially by brush I am looking at finding a used boom flail mower with about a 15' reach.

Picture from GreyRider attached below (didn't link in right for some reason)

 

[Heavyduty]

Very clever and within budget. This is a crazy good idea, you could even put a few bolt holes in at a higher elevation on the far side of that tube steel to go down a slope. I also would point the chute backwards instead of at the driver. Is that 2" tube?

Unfortunately with about 4000' of creek edge taken over partially by brush I am looking at finding a used boom flail mower with about a 15' reach.

Picture from GreyRider attached below (didn't link in right for some reason)

You say boommower?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I guess it all depends on how much waterline you have, how good your back is, and as always whether you have more time than money.

My pond is 2 acres or more. Long and narrow, it is over 700 foot long and averages about 150' wide. There are 2 tributaries and is has about 3200' total of waterline (including tributaries).

I used to do the neck craning with my bush hog on my hydrostatic 4310. Backing down and lowering the cutter down to the surface of the water, pulling up and scooting over about 4 or 5 feet and back down again. If you do the math, well lets just say I had to take Ibuprofen every time I did it and had a neck ache for a week.

Count me in with the crew who likes their pond trimmed all the way around. I have small kids who like to fish and my wife doesn't like snakes. Also, with it clear I can observe the wildlife from afar which is awesome by the way. Overgrown ponds around here get infested with wild hogs, nutria and other bad critters.

My solution was a Deere 350 sickle bar cutter 9 foot long. These are belt driven and don't consume much HP. Mine can swivel down about 45 degress or more to conform to the bank. This is due to the belt on a pulley design. You can't do this with an old pitman arm cutter. I had to buy a manual and "went to school" self learning how to work on the contraption. WATCH YOUR FINGERS, NEVER PUT THEM BETWEEN THE KNIVES. I really recommend the 9' model since this keeps your tractor as far away from the soft edge of the water as can be. The cutter can go into the water fine, it does not hurt it at all. It can cut thru 1" cinda trees easily. If I was rich, I'd like to have a model 450 which has a caddy. These things are cantankerous to get onto the 3 point hitch.

 

[TheGreyRider]

2 inch 1/4 square tube, i point the chute out to keep all the clippings out of the water. The only issue so far is that the grill on the tractor gets covered pretty quick.

 

[warvalley]

what about doing a prescribed burn periodically? Or doing a burn and then planting some low-growing ground cover (not Kudzu!) that will hold the soil. Grass still needs mowing. What about crown vetch?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Our pond is located in the pasture, which we generally try to cut every two weeks, something I have done at the banks edge, is to cut the grass, then when almost time to cut again, spray a contact killer, i.e. Roundup, but in a weakened solution, like 1/2 the normal "kill dosage". Puts most of the vegetation into shock; no growth, but no kill. Try a weak solution, not to kill the vegetation, then adjust the strength if needed. Usually get about three - four weeks of no growth.

I think zoysia grass would work well near the lake. Good groundcover. Likes sun. Crowds out other grasses. Doesnt grow fast.
larry

 

[Creamer]

I have to ask about the tipping factor on your JD 350 with a 9' bar. it would seem to me that this would provide a lot hanging out one side. I have only ever used pull-type sickle bar mowers so i am wondering if there would be a difference on the tipping factor between a mounted, semi-mounted, or pull-type. I am thinking the pull-type would be the best but cannot really see a difference between the other two. Thoughts?
How steep of bank do you have because a 4310 is about eh same size as my Ford 1710?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I have to ask about the tipping factor on your JD 350 with a 9' bar. it would seem to me that this would provide a lot hanging out one side. I have only ever used pull-type sickle bar mowers so i am wondering if there would be a difference on the tipping factor between a mounted, semi-mounted, or pull-type. I am thinking the pull-type would be the best but cannot really see a difference between the other two. Thoughts?
How steep of bank do you have because a 4310 is about eh same size as my Ford 1710?

I have to apologize, I can't run the 350 sickle mower behind the 4310 because the cage frame for the 350 is too wide. It might be possible to mount it if I were put the 3 point mounts on the inside of the frame. As an attachment, it really doesn't weigh that much. Maybe 400 lbs. I use mine on my in laws 5420 tractor. It doesn't even know its back there. When you are on slopes, you can keep the cutter laying on the ground so it doesn't really try to pull over the tractor.