Portable Generator

_RaT_ · Dec 31, 2004

"I'm missing something here, I just cant put my finger on it..."

About 25 db. The Troybilt is quite a bit noisier. For a general purpose backup generator that needs to run full blast whether it's running an alarm clock or water heater, it's fine. I would agree that if your budget won't allow it, you don't care about the noise and your an infrequent user, your Troybilt would be fine. I simply offered the link as a heads up for anyone who might not be in the same situation as you. Your example of using a UPS system certainly would work well to help condition the voltage and to some extent, the sine wave. In the end its what you need and are willing to pay. I know the Honda is more costly and I know where it is better, the question will be, are we willing to pay for it.

Soundguy · Dec 31, 2004

I just picked up a 12/13kw pto genny from northern tool. Cost me about 1300$ between shipping and the pto shaft.

Good clean power if ya got a 24+ hp tractor to spare.

Soundguy

Inspector507 · Dec 31, 2004

OK.......I'll try to clear up some confusion, which will confuse some even more.
Canada's and the US power distribution is very similar, not many differences at all. Butt-wraps are common almost everywhere in the US and probably Canada as well. The butt-wrap is nothing more than to discharge transient voltage, and to stabilize the voltage coming out of the transformer somewhat.
There are 2 types of gensets that we as homeowners might use. One has the neutral bonded to the frame (the grounded portion of the genset). The other is a "floating neutral".

If it's bonded to the frame, it is also bonded to the ground connection which eventually should tie to the house electrical system's ground. Hence, the neutral is "grounded" and a transfer switch should open that connection. If not, the neutral is grounded in 2 locations and creates a parallel path to ground, which is not desirable.

If it's not bonded to the genset ground, the neutral needs a solid connection to the house neutral which is "grounded" at the incoming supply. The ground in the genset is strictly an equipment ground for the generator.

The ground inside your house wiring exists to provide a low impedance path for fault current to travel back to the neutral (grounded conductor at the supply) to open your overcurrent protective device (breaker/fuse).

The neutral at the pole is also grounded there, as well as the house. Once again to stabilize the voltage and to discharge stray voltages, i.e. lightning, etc. If there should be a fault to the neutral before it gets to your house, there is a fuse at the transformer that will blow.

Yes, a step down transformer, when back-fed with 240V, will produce high voltage back down the power lines. But it's very improbable that any voltage will be introduced on the neutral.

srs · Dec 31, 2004

Inspector507, I know this has been said before and I'll repeat it but I am just amazed at your electrical knowledge and how thoughtful you are to share it with members here at TBN. You are very kind to help us who are really electrically challenged. Thank You! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

ducati996 · Dec 31, 2004

( "I'm missing something here, I just cant put my finger on it..."

About 25 db. The Troybilt is quite a bit noisier. For a general purpose backup generator that needs to run full blast whether it's running an alarm clock or water heater, it's fine. I would agree that if your budget won't allow it, you don't care about the noise and your an infrequent user, your Troybilt would be fine. I simply offered the link as a heads up for anyone who might not be in the same situation as you. Your example of using a UPS system certainly would work well to help condition the voltage and to some extent, the sine wave. In the end its what you need and are willing to pay. I know the Honda is more costly and I know where it is better, the question will be, are we willing to pay for it. )

I'm sorry Rat if I came across like it was a bad suggestion or idea. I just saw the price on that unit and expected a lot more overall for the cost....
I think you can get LP units for that price and units that push out 14Kw...I have a Coleman 6250 max surge unit and it powers everything I need in my house. That includes TV', computers, lights, heat, frig and a few other items. I use a transfer switch as well. The Troy Built unit at Lowes is even better than my Coleman with considerably more power.
Hondas are quite no doubt and are the preferred motor....but if your budget is more conservative that good ole Troy Built unit will do wonders /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I do appreciates your suggestions regardless, sorry for being
rude /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Ducati

_RaT_ · Dec 31, 2004

No doubt about the price issue, I'm also in the same thought process as you. My power outages are so infrequent, all I want is enough to run the well, run the refrigerator and after that, it's all gravy. I really enjoy the quieter generators but it's secondary to just having a generator. My real preference is to eventually have some solar/battery equipment. California offers a pretty generous rebate on solar. My sister in law generates about 4000 watts during the summer between 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM everyday which averages out her bill to about $75 year.

v8dave · Jan 1, 2005

(
. . . snip . . .
I've run my sensitive electronics on generated power thru UPS backups, with zero issues.....
. . . snip . . .
Ducati)

Most modest duty UPS system intended for home and small office use do not run the AC output on the inverter supply all the time. They run in bypass and switch to battery/inverter when the power goes away.

They have some transient supression in them (just like a protected plug strip), an inexpensive battery charge in them to keep the battery charged, and a fast switching system to kick in the battery/inverter power when the line goes away. They do have a few millisecond drop out when the power goes away and they depend on the computer's power supply to cover the few milliseconds drop out.

Only the expensive critical power UPS units convert the line to DC and run the inverter off the battery all the time. They may or may not be heavier but they'll have fans in them to cool the DC supply.

Note I state most not all UPS. Unless your UPS brags about being a full time supplier of UPS AC you probably have a switched unit. Which, is perfectly fine and works like a charm. It just doesn't condition the line power beyond the surge protectors.

RalphVa · Jan 1, 2005

I've used my 4,000 watt Suzuki electric start gas generator several times as backup. It feeds into a panel that the original owner had installed prior to Y2K. Feed 220v into that, which has a switch that turns off the power to the Y2K box and lets the generator power in.

The Y2K box has the essentials like: water pump, kitchen plugs (incl. frig), family room & master bedroom. I wired another 120 box from the generator that feeds power to my frig in the basement (incl. computer) and plugs in my carriage house to incl. my freezer there. All I do is start the generator, flip the double switch to the Y2K box, turn off power to carriage house and flip the switches to route the 120v power to it and basement frig/computer. Then I have to move the frig plug to the generator outlet plug on the wall and run an extension cord to the computer across the room.

The 4,000 watt generator does fine on all the above (3 friges, 1 freezer and lights/TV) and has enough left for a 1,500 watt heater for hot water to kitchen sink OR microwave OR a 1,500 watt heater for outside showers. I have to flip everything off to start the well pump. It apparently needs all the 10 x 220 = 2200 watts to start it. I let it pressurize up until shutdown and then flip it off and turn everything else back on. It'll do for a couple showers and a lot of kitchen water usage until it needs it done again. Would like to have about a 6,000 watt PTO generator to avoid having to do this.

The 4,000 watt generator runs for about 6-8 hours on its approx. 4 gallon tank.

Ralph

ducati996 · Jan 1, 2005

( (
. . . snip . . .
I've run my sensitive electronics on generated power thru UPS backups, with zero issues.....
. . . snip . . .
Ducati)

Most modest duty UPS system intended for home and small office use do not run the AC output on the inverter supply all the time. They run in bypass and switch to battery/inverter when the power goes away.

They have some transient supression in them (just like a protected plug strip), an inexpensive battery charge in them to keep the battery charged, and a fast switching system to kick in the battery/inverter power when the line goes away. They do have a few millisecond drop out when the power goes away and they depend on the computer's power supply to cover the few milliseconds drop out.

Only the expensive critical power UPS units convert the line to DC and run the inverter off the battery all the time. They may or may not be heavier but they'll have fans in them to cool the DC supply.

Note I state most not all UPS. Unless your UPS brags about being a full time supplier of UPS AC you probably have a switched unit. Which, is perfectly fine and works like a charm. It just doesn't condition the line power beyond the surge protectors.

)

The technology on the Home/small office based units have increased dramatically....models like this one are available in local retailers at a good discount....even the smaller units do a great job during blackouts/spikes and protect well..

The model I selected has the power conditioner feature as well
There are other brands that offer the same. APC is not the only type...

web page

If you value your home electronics these steps should already be in place regardless if you use a generator or not.
You high def. TV's, P.C, phones, faxes, etc....should all already be protected. I find the performance of these units to exceed any requirement a small business/home user will encounter. I have already experienced it, and everything worked as expected, no damage....

Ducati

Bob_Skurka · Jan 1, 2005

With the talk of clean power, surge protection, etc I have a related question: Does anyone else have a "whole house surge supressor" installed in their fuse box?

Our house sits on a ridge and we've been struck by lighting too many times to count. After replacing a few VCRs, TVs, a computer, a phone system and countless other things our electrician suggested a whole house surge supressor. It is wired right into the fuse box. We also put supressors on the electronics, and a UPS on the internet satellite sytem, router, etc.

My generator panel (which sounds a lot like the Y2K panel previously described in this thread) feeds the generators power through the whole house supressor as well. If I understand it correctly, it should protect the circuits from a generator surge. It does not clean the generator power, but it is supposed to potect everything from spikes.

I'm reasonably clueless about this stuff and rely on my electrical contractor. I've recently made a large investment in home theater and this thread really got me wondering about not only clean power but surges. Do the whole house surge supressors do what they are cracked up to do?