Post Driver Usage Observations

[MtnViewRanch]

Reasley, thanks for responding. I understand your reasons for having this type of fence and they do look very nice. I had been curious as to how long the posts usually last and I know that the length of time depends on the region that they are in. We had some wood posts that were well over 60 years old until the Pines fire burned most of them back in 2002. I am able to put in T post fencing with a few poles and range fencing at a rate of 1/4 mile in 2-10 hour days. The last stretch that I did, I figured that I had to make 14,000 strikes with my hand post driver. My arms were tired for a few days after that. Here's a few pics of some of the fencing that I have put up recently. Doesn't look as nice as your type of fencing though.

 

[MikePA]

Are you guys putting up 3-4 rail fencing or wire, and how far apart are your posts?

I put up electric tape from Horseguard Fencing. Posts are just under 8 feet apart. I could have spaced them further apart, but I thought I might want to put up a boards at some point.

How many feet of fencing per day, how long do the posts last?

I installed all the posts first (187 wooden and 40 T posts), then ran the tape. I probably installed 15 - 20 posts a day, but this included pulling a string to mark the line, marking each location with paint, putting a post at each location then driving each one. The posts I've driven in have only been in for about 5 years. Other parts of the fence that are 6" half round have been in about 20 years.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I am able to put in T post fencing with a few poles and range fencing at a rate of 1/4 mile in 2-10 hour days. The last stretch that I did, I figured that I had to make 14,000 strikes with my hand post driver. My arms were tired for a few days after that. Here's a few pics of some of the fencing that I have put up recently. Doesn't look as nice as your type of fencing though.

Wow! That is a nice straight line. Ive used the pounder on T posts with good results. Just short stroke it. Id never get it that straight tho with just me unless I hand set them first and then came back and nudged them to depth. Saves a lot of arm, but makes pretzels if you hit a rock.
larry

 

[reasley]

Reasley, thanks for responding . . . I am able to put in T post fencing with a few poles and range fencing at a rate of 1/4 mile in 2-10 hour days. The last stretch that I did, I figured that I had to make 14,000 strikes with my hand post driver. My arms were tired for a few days after that. Here's a few pics of some of the fencing that I have put up recently. Doesn't look as nice as your type of fencing though.

Good morning, Brian --

You have done an incredible job on your fencing! Very nice work.

Something that *may* be of interest to you is a scaled down version of the typical post driver is now on the market and it is specifically designed for t-posts. Our local TSC has a couple of them and they are hydraulic, too, mount on the 3 pt. and are $1200, retail, new. Something like this should be very cost effective for you, particularly if you can share one with a couple of neighbors. [Note that these are *not* the hand held hydraulic drivers that you see; it is a self-contained unit like the larger post drivers that we have been discussing.]

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Wow! That is a nice straight line. Ive used the pounder on T posts with good results. Just short stroke it. Id never get it that straight tho with just me unless I hand set them first and then came back and nudged them to depth. Saves a lot of arm, but makes pretzels if you hit a rock.
larry

Larry, I pull 600' of weed eater line to get my lines straight. I figure that nothing varies more than 2". T posts are 10' apart with 40" range wire. I should have used 48" wire, but oh well. My fencing is mainly to keep motorcycle riders out.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Good morning, Brian --

You have done an incredible job on your fencing! Very nice work.

Something that *may* be of interest to you is a scaled down version of the typical post driver is now on the market and it is specifically designed for t-posts. Our local TSC has a couple of them and they are hydraulic, too, mount on the 3 pt. and are $1200, retail, new. Something like this should be very cost effective for you, particularly if you can share one with a couple of neighbors. [Note that these are *not* the hand held hydraulic drivers that you see; it is a self-contained unit like the larger post drivers that we have been discussing.]

Thanks for the complement.
This type of driver would be good when you have very hard or rocky ground to work with. But for me it would take so long just to position the tractor each time that it would take for ever to get much done. Plus when you are working by yourself, seems to me that it would take a long time to just get set to be able to pound the post. A lot depends on what type of fence you put up and the ground conditions that you have to work with on how is the best way to get it done.

 

[MikePA]

But for me it would take so long just to position the tractor each time that it would take for ever to get much done.

I didn't keep track of the wall time to drive posts, but I did track tractor time. Since the tractor was running much of the time, I imagine it's a pretty accurate representation for total time/post.

Working alone, I averaged 14.5 minutes/post.

 

[flusher]

I have now been tinkering with the post driver for a couple of days and have some observations that may be of use to others.


Observations:

1. There must be some sort of what we used to call in the Southeast "English" (like putting "English" on a pool ball) that needs to be done to ensure that the posts drive straight. Note that I am talking about straight, even ground, without rocks. And -- the offset is about 2 degrees in one direction, but it's there (note: get about a dozen of the magnetic angle indicators from Harbor Freight when they are on sale for $2 or so. They are great for leveling drivers and posts and very precise). .

Nice post driver. Been thinking about getting one myself.

Tried to find that magnetic angle indicator on the Harbor Freight website. No luck. I did find this expensive one at amazon.com

Amazon.com: Central Tools 6494 Angle Finder with Magnetic Base: Automotive

Do you have the SKU or other ID info for the Harbor Freight version?

 

[CATMAN]

reasley; One other suggestion, If you are driving post into any sod-like conditions, my dad has learned to dig a little circle of that sod out, where the bottom of the post will set. He uses a tile spade to do this(long handle,narrow shovel). Only a 2-3" depth is needed. It tends to help hold the bottom of the post where you want it and if the post bounces on the first couple of pounds, that "hole" tends to keep the post bottom where you intend it to go(along your string line or wire). He also sets all posts 1/2" away from the wire(at the start), so he doesn't have a post that happens to "move over" and disturb that straight "line-up" wire. We happen to always use barbed wire for this, that later becomes part of the fence anyways.

 

[reasley]

Nice post driver. Been thinking about getting one myself.

Tried to find that magnetic angle indicator on the Harbor Freight website. No luck. I did find this expensive one at amazon.com

Amazon.com: Central Tools 6494 Angle Finder with Magnetic Base: Automotive

Do you have the SKU or other ID info for the Harbor Freight version?

Sorry about the delay -- just got in from working. I knew that I had one unopened and I found it. You are right that the website does not allow you to look it up, but I found the SKU -- it's 34214 -- so plug it in under "Item Number" search at this link: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices and it will come up. I checked it to make sure that it would come up and it's on sale now for $2.39.

 

[flusher]

Sorry about the delay -- just got in from working. I knew that I had one unopened and I found it. You are right that the website does not allow you to look it up, but I found the SKU -- it's 34214 -- so plug it in under "Item Number" search at this link: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices and it will come up. I checked it to make sure that it would come up and it's on sale now for $2.39.

Ahh. Thanks for the follow-up. I need one of those to set the posts for a hay shed I'm planning to build this Spring.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Working alone, I averaged 14.5 minutes/post.

I don't have that much patience

 

[CATMAN]

I don't have that much patience

My dad always said; Two people building fence together is three times faster than one person. Two years ago, we built fence together, instead of working on the harvest in the Fall. He finished combining by himself, later.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My dad always said; Two people building fence together is three times faster than one person. Two years ago, we built fence together, instead of working on the harvest in the Fall. He finished combining by himself, later.

I agree 100%, you coming over to help. You have to have a 2nd person in order to have that 2nd person to help. Another problem that I have is that I am sort of a perfectionist and if you have just anybody help, well, I end up re-doing it anyway. Ever heard "I charge $50 an hour. I charge $60 an hour if you watch and I charge $75 an hour if you help". Well, that's me, seems like I'm better off doing stuff by myself most of the time. So does this mean that when you come over we can get 3/4 mile of fence up in 2-10 hour days?

 

[reasley]

Ahh. Thanks for the follow-up. I need one of those to set the posts for a hay shed I'm planning to build this Spring.

If I were you, I would get 10 of them while they are on sale -- I rarely use a level anymore for anything -- these things are just too handy, and 10 of them are about the same price as a decent level.

I have one on the tractor always, a couple at home, and a bunch at the shop. One of the best uses that I found for it thus far was installing some plumbing return on a second floor job -- there is a minimum drop per foot that it needed but I had some very tight space to work with -- too little, not enough drain, too much, not enough room for the pipe. I could have *never* gotten it this accurate with a level. I simply converted the drop to degrees and measured throughout while assembling.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I agree 100%, you coming over to help. You have to have a 2nd person in order to have that 2nd person to help. Another problem that I have is that I am sort of a perfectionist and if you have just anybody help, well, I end up re-doing it anyway. Ever heard "I charge $50 an hour. I charge $60 an hour if you watch and I charge $75 an hour if you help". Well, that's me, seems like I'm better off doing stuff by myself most of the time. So does this mean that when you come over we can get 3/4 mile of fence up in 2-10 hour days?

Know what you mean. You have my sympathy in our affliction.
larry

 

[CATMAN]

MtnViewRanch; I should have mentioned that I was talking about efficiency with a hyd. post driver. You know, one person to manuever the tractor and one person to "eyeball" the fence line with the post in hand, then pound it. I looked at your photo(looks great), and if that fence was built with my dad's front-mounted hyd. post driver, we would back the tractor/post driver down the "line-up" wire/string and the tractor operator would probably never leave the seat unless to walk back three or four post to check for vertical line-up off previously pounded posts.

I bet you were really sore after pounding all those by hand.​

My dad somewhat hates steel posts, they just can't handle cattle or cows pushing on them. Feed lots=no steel posts,100% wood with metal cattle panels; Larger lots with cows/calves=wood/steel/wood/steel/etc.w/ 5 strands barbed-wire; Corn/soybean fields get wood/steel/steel/wood post spacing and usually 4 strands of barbed-wire.

Don't think my dad doesn't want a straight and good looking fence either. If a wood post drives down crooked, he will dig out the dirt with that tile shape, and we will spend the time to get it vertical again. If you notice this problem early(post 1/2 down), you can reposition the tractor/post driver to straight it up(again two people really speed this up). Actually, I got a kick out of your comment; "I don't have that much patience". My brother and myself have the same attitude, GET 'ER DONE.​

 

[patrick_g]

I jury rigged a post driver for T-posts but it is definitely not for other larger crossection posts. It is a slight mod to an electric demo hammer (Got it on sale at HF) I cut a chisel off pretty short and welded a little cap on it to allow setting it on the top of a post and having it stay while driving. The cap is a scrap of pipe with a circular piece of steel welded in one end. the circular piece is welded to the cut off chisel. I can power it with a portable generator. It has performed OK in tests. It is not amazing but in dry dirt that is really slow going with manual T-post driver id does OK and WITHOUT wearing me out.

Pat

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I bet you were really sore after pounding all those by hand.​

My dad somewhat hates steel posts, they just can't handle cattle or cows pushing on them. Feed lots=no steel posts,100% wood with metal cattle panels; Larger lots with cows/calves=wood/steel/wood/steel/etc.w/ 5 strands barbed-wire; Corn/soybean fields get wood/steel/steel/wood post spacing and usually 4 strands of barbed-wire.

Surprised myself, but was only a little sore for about 3 days and don't tell the rancher about 10 miles from me that steel T posts are no good for cattle. I'm pretty sure that he would hate to re-fence his 40,000+ acre range.

 

[Neil L]

Pat,

Thinking about T-post installation. Need to have ability to go over uneven ground. Looked at Shaver ( nice ), dedicated to post driving and no other use.

Any thoughts about a Hydrolic hammer or drill (reversable, several other uses) so you don't need electricity, have 7.5 GPM at 2100 PSI? Any cost thoughts, sources?

Could it be mounted on a boom pole? Still may need two people.

Can you add weight or down pressure?

Looking for an easy answer to fencing for goats, May need to install a few wooden post here and there, so probably need a hydo digger as well unles you all have a better solution.

Thanks,
Neil