Post hole auger bit?

countrybumpkin · Nov 13, 2017

I am looking at buying a couple new augers for my step dads 3pt pto digger. The ones he has are way beyond there usable life, how ever he thinks they are just fine.

Anyway I'm looking at primarily digging in Red clay with rocks anywhere from baseball, or softball and down in size, what type of bits and points should I be looking for? Here is a pic of pretty much what I'd be digging in.

powerscol · Nov 13, 2017

Have you tried replacing just the teeth and auger point. The auger looks good in the picture. TSC has a good assortment that should bolt on as replacements.

MESSMAKER · Nov 14, 2017

powerscol said:
Have you tried replacing just the teeth and auger point. The auger looks good in the picture. TSC has a good assortment that should bolt on as replacements.

New cutting edge and auger point should fix things unless something is bent.

countrybumpkin · Nov 14, 2017

I'll post a pic of the tip a bit later, but yes I'm going to pick up a pair of teeth and see what I can do with that. I'm more curios as to the type of tips and cutting edges work best in this type of soil conditions, I know I don't need a 2000 dollars rock auger but I think I need more than the local tractor supply augers. I have looked at spiral cork screw tips , split tooth tips and also different cutting edges.

EddieWalker · Nov 14, 2017

While not a big fan of Tractor Supply, during a moment of desperation, I bought one of their Country Line augers. It is so good that I've learned that everything I thought I knew about digging post holes was wrong. With a good bit, it doesn't matter how hard your red clay is, a good auger will cut right through it like butter!!! In fact, I also learned about digging too fast and burying the bit. I now have two Country Line augers, a 12 inch and a 9 inch. They have replaceable cutting teeth and tips in the store, but so far, I haven't ever had to replace mine.

buickanddeere · Nov 14, 2017

I bought and use one of these . Absolutly outstanding and virtually unbreakable .

Auger 12" x 4" Hole Digger Head with Teeth w/ 2" Round | Danuser

countrybumpkin · Nov 14, 2017

I was wondering about the fish tail point and its use over a cork screw one, something like the danuser auger is what I had been looking at and thinking may be a good investment for what I need. Closest TSC is about a hour away in cape, but I have to take one of the kids to a appointment Thursday there so I'll run by and check out there augers first hand too. One of there augers with new curing edges may be all I need for no more than I do, and just keep the edges replaced when needed instead of letting them wear down into the bit itself like the ones I'm using now.

MORRISONSTEEL · Nov 15, 2017

I myself prefer double flight auger bits vs the single flight pictured. Danuser or Mcmillen offer nice double flight bits with decent points, they will be a little more expensive but worth it imao.

countrybumpkin · Nov 17, 2017

Couple of pics of the tip and teeth, I picked up a set from TSC and going to replace the two teeth today.

David_Kb7uns · Nov 18, 2017

Have anybody around that can put some hardfacing on that screw tip?

David

countrybumpkin · Nov 18, 2017

I can do it, and it's had some done already but they waited till it was so worn down to do it, but didn't build it back up, not sure all the effort it would take to rebuild this one is worth it. May be just as well off to start with a new auger of a better style for what I'm going to do with it and keep it properly maintained.

countrybumpkin · Nov 21, 2017

Well I did a little maintenance on the auger, two new cheap teeth from TSC, and rebolted the tip to the tube. After drilling 3 holes the new teeth sure took a beating, but it was working good UNTILL, the shaft gave up. Guess the HREW tubing was weaker than the 5/16th grade 8 bolt he had for a shear bolt.

never even thought to look and see what grade bolt he had in it for a shear bolt , but should have known.

johnk · Nov 22, 2017

It should be a grade 5 5/16th bolt for the shear bolt..

David_Kb7uns · Nov 22, 2017

Bad things happen when Grade 8 shear bolts are used..........

powerscol · Nov 22, 2017

countrybumpkin said:
Well I did a little maintenance on the auger, two new cheap teeth from TSC, and rebolted the tip to the tube. After drilling 3 holes the new teeth sure took a beating, but it was working good UNTILL, the shaft gave up. Guess the HREW tubing was weaker than the 5/16th grade 8 bolt he had for a shear bolt. never even thought to look and see what grade bolt he had in it for a shear bolt , but should have known.

Well look at the bright side - now you can get the auger you wanted :cool2:, Hope the gear box is OK.

countrybumpkin · Nov 22, 2017

I'm just going to replace the twisted tube with a new piece of 1" again tomorrow, and then throw in a new lower grade bolt for a shear pin. I may try a standard grade first just to see how long it lasts, I can always step up to a grade five if need be. I'm really debating on buying a hydraulic unit for the loader or even building a pto unit with down force, so I don't have to borrow his anymore, I don't have a big use for one but it would be here when I wanted to use it and know what condition it would be in

Fallon · Nov 25, 2017

countrybumpkin said:
I'm just going to replace the twisted tube with a new piece of 1" again tomorrow, and then throw in a new lower grade bolt for a shear pin. I may try a standard grade first just to see how long it lasts, I can always step up to a grade five if need be. I'm really debating on buying a hydraulic unit for the loader or even building a pto unit with down force, so I don't have to borrow his anymore, I don't have a big use for one but it would be here when I wanted to use it and know what condition it would be in

I rebuilt my PTO unit to fit on my QH. Sa a result the hydraulic toplink gave me downforce for a foot or 2. I didnt get the angles perfect so if I lowered the 3pt before extending the toplink I hit the PTO shaft. Bent it a little a few times, but t kept working fine. It ran off with my old L3200. Got a 3rd function on my new L4060 & a hydraulic SSQA PHD now. Way easier to hook up. Visibility is ok... No more crinked neck, but its so far forward its a little hard to make sure its level front to back. Offset mount means its not hiding behnd the hood. Downpressure is great as is reverse. My unit is designed for 2,500, maybe 3,000psi & under 12 or 15gpm. I have around 9gpm usable gpm. Comparing the usable power on my hydraulic unit, its less than the 25pto HP on my L3200. But the relief valve, down pressure & reverse means I can work it harder with no consequences. I'm finaly realizing my holes per hour is abotut the same as it use to be.