Post hole digger (3pth). Need advice.

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

I have limited experience with a small 3pt post hole digger. I now need a post hole digger for my approximately 40 horsepower at the PTO tractor. I'd love a hydraulic one but can't justify the cost. I'll average 20 holes per year.

My dealer has two used and I was wondering what y'all thought of them. They were piled together on a pallet so sorry for the crappy photos.

#1) Woods PHD65 with 12" auger for $750 (this seems like a decent price even if it looks a little rough)

#2) LandPride PD35 with 12" auger for $1150 (probably more than I'm willing to spend)

Dadnatron · Mar 21, 2017

Looks like whomever owned the Land Pride forgot to dig the holes in the ground. That auger doesn't even look like its been scratched up enough to have put in a yard flamingo.

davesl708 · Mar 21, 2017

Neither look like they have had a lot of use or were used in soft soil.
Check the gearbox for leaks and water in the gear oil. Also, I would rotate the PTO shaft to check for excessive wear or bad sounds.

The Woods appears to be in better shape than the LP.
Maybe offer $400. Dealer wants to get rid of them and sell new stuff.

MtnViewRanch · Mar 21, 2017

Either will serve you well. The LP PD35 is 15% heavier, so take that as you will. Check the gear ratios, the LP is 4-1, could not find what the Woods unit is.

buickanddeere · Mar 21, 2017

Which unit has the heavist and most agressive auger ?

zzvyb6 · Mar 21, 2017

The red one is the best deal in MHO. Auger tip shows least amount of wear and abuse. Teeth are fair, For a few bucks at Rural King get some new ones. The auger flighting is graduated, that's good for a few reasons. Anybody wanna guess them?

The yellow one has had a hard life. Auger tip is shot, (bent or wickered). Teeth are shot (rounded) and useless. You will need to replace them both unless you are installing volleyball nets on a beach.

A 12" auger is bigger than you need for most posts unless you get free ones from AT&T. New one with tip and teeth in 8" is about $129 around here (RK grand opening Friday, goodbye TSC).

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

davesl708 said:
Neither look like they have had a lot of use or were used in soft soil.
Check the gearbox for leaks and water in the gear oil. Also, I would rotate the PTO shaft to check for excessive wear or bad sounds.

The Woods appears to be in better shape than the LP.
Maybe offer $400. Dealer wants to get rid of them and sell new stuff.

Will do.

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

MtnViewRanch said:
Either will serve you well. The LP PD35 is 15% heavier, so take that as you will. Check the gear ratios, the LP is 4-1, could not find what the Woods unit is.

I also noted the weight difference. All the info I can also find on the Woods is that it is rated for 540rpm. (I don't actually want to run it there do I?

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

buickanddeere said:
Which unit has the heavist and most agressive auger ?

The LP is definitely heavier. The teeth and tip are slightly different but the angle of attack seemed similar. :confused3:

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

zzvyb6 said:
The red one is the best deal in MHO. Auger tip shows least amount of wear and abuse. Teeth are fair, For a few bucks at Rural King get some new ones. The auger flighting is graduated, that's good for a few reasons. Anybody wanna guess them?

The yellow one has had a hard life. Auger tip is shot, (bent or wickered). Teeth are shot (rounded) and useless. You will need to replace them both unless you are installing volleyball nets on a beach.

A 12" auger is bigger than you need for most posts unless you get free ones from AT&T. New one with tip and teeth in 8" is about $129 around here (RK grand opening Friday, goodbye TSC).

Thanks to everyone for the input.

I agree that the woods on her certainly looks in better shape. The Land Pride auger is certainly well used but the rest of the unit looks very new. Maybe they got switched?

I wish we had alternatives here; I really dislike TSC but often need it.

I will be on the lookout for a 9" auger as you suggest. :thumbsup:

MtnViewRanch · Mar 21, 2017

Luke'sScreenName said:
I also noted the weight difference. All the info I can also find on the Woods is that it is rated for 540rpm. (I don't actually want to run it there do I?

I run mine at idle, never more, never been a reason to be any higher.

Keep in mind, all auger bits ARE NOT created equal, and it is not just the teeth that are different. Just like most implements, all you have to do is actually look at them and you can see the difference.

Sawyer Rob · Mar 21, 2017

I had one with a 9" auger, it was a cheapo and it didn't work all that good... Glad to see it leave!!

I bought a used Bush Hog model with a 12" auger and it's a thousand times better... I like the 12" auger much better too..

SR

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

Oh, and I'm guessing graduated flighting makes it less likely to 'screw' into the ground?

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 21, 2017

Understood on the importance of a quality bit. I would try the 12" first and then decided to change if needed.

Also, my intention is to build a storage rack similar to yours Brian. Probably with a small roof.

bspeedy · Mar 22, 2017

MtnViewRanch said:
I run mine at idle, never more, never been a reason to be any higher.

Same here. I helped a buddy with a horse run-in shelter a couple weeks ago. He was trying to run the auger at pto speed with him on the tractor and me guiding the auger. I was not comfortable with that and got him to slow it down.

I just run it at idle and speed it up with the foot feed to fling the spoils off of the auger when cleaning out the hole. Seems to work ok.

MtnViewRanch · Mar 22, 2017

Luke'sScreenName said:
Oh, and I'm guessing graduated flighting makes it less likely to 'screw' into the ground?

The secret to not "screwing " into the ground is to control the depth of your cut. Down 12", raise 6", down 12", raise 6" until you get to your desired depth. Don't put the 3pt lever all the way forward and just let the auger dig, that's how you get in trouble.

Control the cut.

Texasmark · Mar 22, 2017

Just what is there to worry about with your seldom usage you mentioned. Not that much to go wrong with a PHD. In it's entire lifetime you aren't going to run the gear train as much as you would do in one hour of running your shredder and you are talking about the same critter.....just take the blade and deck off and install an auger......

zzvyb6 · Mar 22, 2017

Auger teeth should be square, not rounded off like you see in those photos. Graduated flighting also helps you remove the remaining dirt when the hole is finished. Otherwise, dirt just slides back down the flighting. One way to stop this problem is to pull out the auger without it turning. Dirt may cling to the digger as you slowly pull it out. Tossing a bucket of water into the finished hole can help with this, too. Not practical if you have a few hundred to do, though.

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 22, 2017

Good tips

Fallon · Mar 22, 2017

I started out with a 9". Got a light duty $175 farm store 12" & now a $350 nice heavy duty Pengo. My 9 wasn't enough for my fencing. Only 6-7" posts, but I had crossbar on top so spacing needed to be within 1" or so. We were trimming the holes way to much fitting crossbar & leveling posts.

The cheap 12" was wallering out the mounting pin holes a bit & on its 2nd set of teeth by 200 holes. It ran off with my old L3200 & PHD. Haven't replaced my PHD yet & debating hydraulic at double to 3x the price of PTO. But I do tractor work, including post holes as a side gig.

Teeth for my Pengo are $5 each (needs 4). They are 2/3 worn after 100 holes in some abrasive sandy dirt. Hardfaced teeth are an option at double the price & carbide at 4x the price. Probably gonna try hardfaced next. Speeco teeth for the cheap 12" were pushing $30. The augers themselves didn't wear much (other than the mounting holes on the Speeco) & the teeth are replacable reasonably.