Post Hole

/ Post Hole #1  

southwind26

New member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
21
Location
ash fork, az
Tractor
1971 John Deere 60hp model #401AJ, serial # 190601T with a #7310 loader with 1 yard bucket. Engine type 4202DT 4 cylinder diesel, serial #279020T with detachable backhoe model # 9250 has a 24 bucket with good teeth. John Deere considered this mode
Hey Everyone

I need a little help, the shear pin on my Post Hole auger did its job and sheared but now the drive shaft is stuck on the shaft of the auger head and I can't remove it to replace the shear pin. I've tried to use chisels and wedges but with no luck SV400002.JPG anyone have any ideas?
 
/ Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thxs deerseeker001
 
/ Post Hole #4  
Beat , bang , cuss and fuss , then buy a new one.

Actually I would try lining the hole up with the piece that is still stuck inside and drive it out with a punch.
 
/ Post Hole #5  
Scratch that. There is probably a clip ring on the inner shaft holding it in place. ( got to typing before I looked at picture.
 
/ Post Hole #6  
My neighbor had the same problem with what looks like the same PHD. We soaked it in WD40, and used a breaker bar and small sledge. It was a real PIA, but finally came off. It had been on so long, it was rusted badly. Looks like you got the same problem.
 
/ Post Hole #7  
Heat the yoke with a torch and while hot spray wd40 between the yoke and shaft . And it will pull right off by hand .

Sent from my iPhone 5 using TractorByNet
 
/ Post Hole #8  
2 pipe wrenches, 1 to hold auger from turning the other to rotate PTO shaft. Line up the shear pin holes and drive old bolt out with a punch. Reason it stuck is bolt started bending before breaking, use next stronger grade of bolt. This will allow it to shear cleaner and made replacement easier.
 
/ Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thxs everybody. So far I have tried some propane heat but that didn't seem to get hot enough. I tried to move the shaft with pipe wrenches and a cheater bar, I had a grade 5 bolt for a shear pin, I tried a grade 8 but that torn the shaft in half. Tomorrow I will put the torch on it and see if that will heat it up enough to move.
 
/ Post Hole #10  
Thxs everybody. So far I have tried some propane heat but that didn't seem to get hot enough. I tried to move the shaft with pipe wrenches and a cheater bar, I had a grade 5 bolt for a shear pin, I tried a grade 8 but that torn the shaft in half. Tomorrow I will put the torch on it and see if that will heat it up enough to move.

Spray wd40 in it while hot it's red hot . Trust me it works .

I was trying to get a stuck pto shaft unstuck beat the crap and everything I thought I could do . Tell someone came by while I was trying to get it to move . And they said heat it hot and spray wd40 in between the two . I didn't believe them so I didn't try it tell after they left . And guess what it worked like butter .

Sent from my iPhone 5 using TractorByNet
 
/ Post Hole #11  
I maybe misunderstanding the situation, but cant you just run it a little bit allowing it to spin on the yoke until I frees up?
 
/ Post Hole #12  
Alternative... If u disassemble the u-joint, you may be able to get a 3-jaw puller on there.
 
/ Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#13  
C4Ranch, I did run it in the hole hoping it would just spin but it seem to just get tighter. I was very careful in doing because I didn't want to split the drive shaft in half like I did with the grade 8 bolt as the shear pin (as you can see in the pic). It seem like the drive shaft pushed all the way up to the head.

SV400003.JPG
SV400004.JPG
 
/ Post Hole #14  
Gotcha. Yeah, I wouldn't want to twist your driveshaft.

I would see if u can get a puller on there or you might try 2 chisels opposite eachother with a buddy hitting simultaneously.
 
/ Post Hole #15  
Sometimes there is a set screw that goes into a channel to prevent the pto shaft from slamming around when the pin shears. Worth checking.
 
/ Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#16  
UPDATE: got it off today, 7879fordman had the right idea, heat-heat-and more heat put a come along on it more heat and WD40 it worked off with help from chiesles
 
/ Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#17  
thxs 7879fordman that worked for me as well, got it off today
 
/ Post Hole #18  
When I sheared the bolt in mine..... There is another bolt that runs in a groove on the shaft to keep the pto shaft from coming off the gear box...
I got it all apart, cleaned up, de burred with a file, and put back together with anti seize compound on everything that might need it...
Has worked well...
Good luck
 
/ Post Hole #19  
UPDATE: got it off today, 7879fordman had the right idea, heat-heat-and more heat put a come along on it more heat and WD40 it worked off with help from chiesles

It was the spraying WD-40 on it while hot that did the trick. The person who suggested it was right. I came up with that trick by accident about 35 years ago when I was working on a backhoe. I believe the heat thins the oil and by capillary action sucks the oil into the joint as it cools. Its my goto trick on stuff that is stuck. The nice thing is it doesn't take a ton of heat and that minimizes melting seals and such. Glad you got it apart.
 
/ Post Hole #20  
Hot spraying a penetrating oil does wonders on old rusty stuff. I've found that PB Blaster works better than WD-40, but by far the best penetrating oil I've used (and it's been proven in actual research) is a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. I filled a spray bottle with a mix of it a while ago and it is awesome. You have to shake it before each use since the two don't mix easily, but the penetrating action of the acetone will carry the detergent action of the transmission fluid right into tight rusty spaces and really break stuff free.
 
 

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