pressure washer problems

[bob_wood]

I hate to be the one to say it; But, I told you so. I think your problem is fuel flow. When I mentioned pressurizing the tank, this temporarily clears any blockage in the fuel strainer. The real fix would be to disassemble the strainer and clean it. It's item #23 in the picture below.

I removed item 23 , the sediment bowl, and item 4, the float bowl and bothe were clean and i had fuel running out. I did'nt see any strainer ....

Thanks Ken

Bob

 

[bob_wood]

I drained the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel. That helped Alot. The engine will run but only on low RPM's ... will cough and sputter if I go to full RPMs and sometimes the choke lever will go to full choke all on its own. Seems after it "warms up " ( 2 or 3 minutes ) things settle out and I am able to run at full RPMs ok But low pressure at the wand... with new unloader valve in place. I put the old unloader back on and , after going thru the " warm up " with lots of sputtering and an occassional backfire, I am able to go to full RPMs on the engine and get good wand spray / pressure and the pressure washer continues to operate just fine after that. I have no idea why the new unloader will not work. and I have a mean running engine ... but it Does run. SO.......looks like my pump is good, my old unloader valve is good ( for the moment ) , the new unloader valve is bad and I have engine problems. I have not replaced the spark plug yet but will do so soon. Any suggestions ??

and thanks for all the help so far

Bob

 

[J_J]

I don't believe there is a strainer in the sediment bowl. The spark arrester is supposed to be taken out and cleaned every 100 hours. It will get carbon-ed up and cause running problems. It will block the exhaust flow. You should clean it or leave it out. You normally don't need it unless you are using the engine in the woods.

 

[J_J]

Bob, I thought you said the tip of the unloader valve was bad, the part with the spring around it that sits on the top of the ball in the unloader valve. Does you pump unload when you release the trigger. You should hear a strain on the engine, and the water will be warm to hot if unloaded for a while. I am still puzzled why your choke moves all by it self. It should not move until you move it.

 

[bobcatoh]

My air compressor acted the same way, It would start and run for a short time and then quit. It would usually start back up but then die again.
I tried all the fuel suggestions etc. to no avail. Turned out to be the plug.

 

[bob_wood]

I don't believe there is a strainer in the sediment bowl. The spark arrester is supposed to be taken out and cleaned every 100 hours. It will get carbon-ed up and cause running problems. It will block the exhaust flow. You should clean it or leave it out. You normally don't need it unless you are using the engine in the woods.

I tried to take the spark arrestor off J_J but my phillips bit broke off in the screw I will get it off tomorrow ... one way or another . Where did you get that info ... Im curious. Thanks

Bob

 

[bob_wood]

My air compressor acted the same way, It would start and run for a short time and then quit. It would usually start back up but then die again.
I tried all the fuel suggestions etc. to no avail. Turned out to be the plug.

Thanks Bob. I'm going to pick up a new plug tomorrow. I'm wondering if that carberator " gum out " stuff is any good or might help with My engine problem.


Bob

 

[bob_wood]

Bob, I thought you said the tip of the unloader valve was bad, the part with the spring around it that sits on the top of the ball in the unloader valve. Does you pump unload when you release the trigger. You should hear a strain on the engine, and the water will be warm to hot if unloaded for a while. I am still puzzled why your choke moves all by it self. It should not move until you move it.

Hard to explain but the tip of the unloader valve is cupped to seat over the ball bearing .... mine look bent / flared out quite bad on one side ... so it couldnt seat good on the ball. I actually hammered it back into shape...figured my valve was no good anyways so what the heck. It seems to be working, so far. As I explained, after alotta engine sputtering and stuff, my unloader Does work and I get full high pressure spray when I pull the trigger. During the "sputtering " thing, my choke Does sometimes, on its own, go to full choke ... and the engine usually stalls at that point. Thanks for the interest and help J_J .

Bob

 

[J_J]

I tried to take the spark arrestor off J_J but my phillips bit broke off in the screw I will get it off tomorrow ... one way or another . Where did you get that info ... Im curious. Thanks

Bob

From the engine manual page 20, and 28 Most people don't know about the spark arrester screen. I have purchased a good many engines because they could not get them to run. Weed whackers in particular will clog up. Most people, if they know about the screens, will remove them. The engine usually starts and run just fine.

I ran a landscape business for about 20 years, and had to do all the maintenance. I also pressure washed, installed and repaired sprinkler systems, and some tree trimming.

I have a problem right now with water getting in my gas tank on my Dixie Chopper. I know about condensation, but this is about 8 oz of water. About the only conclusion I can come to is that most of the gas caps have an air hole in the very top, and when it rains, the gas tank cools down and acts like a vacuum, and sucks water in. They make a cap with the air vent in the threaded part of the cap that I will try.

You might check that the air vent on your Honda engine is not rusty or plugged up. That will cause some weird problems.

 

[Stimw]

I'm a Honda Engine Dealer and have had my share of troubleshooting with them.
The fuel tank has a very fine strainer in the bottom and for the most part it won't let water through, BUT vibration will let some pass. When ever I service an engine I have a vacuum syphon that hooks to an air hose. I suck the liquid from the sump around the fuel strainer and collect it in a clear container and check for water. I've had engines come in that wouldn't start and I found 6-8 oz of water in the tank. (The guy using that engine ask to go home early and was told no) When changing the fuel you need to get ALL the old out. Soak it up with a paper towel for the last drops.
DO NOT use a Champion spark plug. I've had too many problems with them on Honda's and other engines. Honda calls for NGK and I have only had a couple fail. Make sure it's the right plug, for some reason people like to put short reach plugs in. It needs a long reach, about 3/4"-1".
When the engine is running, try closing the choke about half way and see if it runs smoother. (the choke should have light detentes open and closed) If it does the power valve is stopped up (part # 27) I have a fine piece of stainless wire I use to clean these. The orifice is in the very bottom and the thing is plastic so be careful trying to clean it.
The governor has only one adjustment and it shouldn't change unless someone messed with it.
Honda engines are incredible when they are working right and that is most of the time! Try these tips and see if they help.

 

[bob_wood]

I'm a Honda Engine Dealer and have had my share of troubleshooting with them.
The fuel tank has a very fine strainer in the bottom and for the most part it won't let water through, BUT vibration will let some pass. When ever I service an engine I have a vacuum syphon that hooks to an air hose. I suck the liquid from the sump around the fuel strainer and collect it in a clear container and check for water. I've had engines come in that wouldn't start and I found 6-8 oz of water in the tank. (The guy using that engine ask to go home early and was told no) When changing the fuel you need to get ALL the old out. Soak it up with a paper towel for the last drops.
DO NOT use a Champion spark plug. I've had too many problems with them on Honda's and other engines. Honda calls for NGK and I have only had a couple fail. Make sure it's the right plug, for some reason people like to put short reach plugs in. It needs a long reach, about 3/4"-1".
When the engine is running, try closing the choke about half way and see if it runs smoother. (the choke should have light detentes open and closed) If it does the power valve is stopped up (part # 27) I have a fine piece of stainless wire I use to clean these. The orifice is in the very bottom and the thing is plastic so be careful trying to clean it.
The governor has only one adjustment and it shouldn't change unless someone messed with it.
Honda engines are incredible when they are working right and that is most of the time! Try these tips and see if they help.

When I drained the fuel, all I could get out, I looked in the tank and I saw the fine strainer you are talking about and was wondering if it was clean ...couldnt really see it that good.Could I put some compressed air into the gas line / tube at the carb end to try and clean the tank filter? Also was wondering if I should have tried to wick the rest of the gas out of the bottom of the tank ... I didnt but I will tomorrow. And I will install a long reach NGK plug.
Per my earlier posts, should the engine ever go to full choke on its own ? Mine Does sometimes.
Only happens when I first start the engine and its coughing and sputtering as I try to increase RPMs.

IN spite of the problems I am having with my Honda engine, I have had Many years of great service out of this engine and I'm sure I'll get many more out of it when these little problems get cleaned up.
Thanks Stimw

Bob

 

[Stimw]

I would try to get all the old gas out. Using a paper towel to get any drops of water is a good idea. I haven't seen the screen clogged, you could blow it out if you have air and it wouldn't hurt to blow out the tank. They do get dirt in them.
If the choke has the detentes open and closed it should be OK. I've seen them worn and would move around on their own. If the engine backfires it could blow the choke shut. Backfiring is another symptom of the power valve stopped up.
To remove the power valve you remove the idle screw then remove the little plastic keeper on top of the valve then, (I use needle nose pliers) carefully remove the valve. The valve has a small O-ring on it and Honda doesn't sell just the O-ring so be careful with it and put a little oil on it to install or it will tear. If you can find a tinny piece of wire clean the hole in the bottom of the valve. There is a 1/8" hole sideways in the valve. the hole from the bottom goes into this hole.
Again, to check if the power valve is clogged, close the choke about half way. If the engine runs smooth it's clogged. I've fixed dozens up on dozens of engines by cleaning that valve. I could have sold a bunch of carburetors but I'm too honest.

 

[bob_wood]

I would try to get all the old gas out. Using a paper towel to get any drops of water is a good idea. I haven't seen the screen clogged, you could blow it out if you have air and it wouldn't hurt to blow out the tank. They do get dirt in them.
If the choke has the detentes open and closed it should be OK. I've seen them worn and would move around on their own. If the engine backfires it could blow the choke shut. Backfiring is another symptom of the power valve stopped up.
To remove the power valve you remove the idle screw then remove the little plastic keeper on top of the valve then, (I use needle nose pliers) carefully remove the valve. The valve has a small O-ring on it and Honda doesn't sell just the O-ring so be careful with it and put a little oil on it to install or it will tear. If you can find a tinny piece of wire clean the hole in the bottom of the valve. There is a 1/8" hole sideways in the valve. the hole from the bottom goes into this hole.
Again, to check if the power valve is clogged, close the choke about half way. If the engine runs smooth it's clogged. I've fixed dozens up on dozens of engines by cleaning that valve. I could have sold a bunch of carburetors but I'm too honest.

THanks Stimw, I printed these tips out and added them to my owners manual, for future reference
I installed a new spark plug in my pressure washer engine tonight and That took care of the rest of my engine problems. My washer runs like the day I bought it !! Now I can tackle all of my very dirty tractors and vehicles

Thanks guys !! appreciate all the input and help on this problem.

Bob

 

[bob_wood]

I don't believe there is a strainer in the sediment bowl. The spark arrester is supposed to be taken out and cleaned every 100 hours. It will get carbon-ed up and cause running problems. It will block the exhaust flow. You should clean it or leave it out. You normally don't need it unless you are using the engine in the woods.

I will take the spark arrester out soon J_J Thanks for that info and all the other help you have given me

Bob

 

[J_J]

I will take the spark arrester out soon J_J Thanks for that info and all the other help you have given me

Bob

Bob, Did you ever come up with a cause for you engine problem?

 

[bob_wood]

Bob, Did you ever come up with a cause for you engine problem?

To sum it all up, it was bad gasoline and a bad spark plug.

My unloader valve seems to be working ok but I havent had a chance to really give it a workout. We'll see.

Bob

 

[ampsucker]

wow! all this for a bad plug!

they should be replaced yearly or so. they are so cheap, just think of the money and time you could have saved by trying that first!

yes, internal resistance of a plug can change. it is working in a harsh environment to say the least. many times they look fine but are bad. always try a new plug as one of the first options.

the golden triad: spark, fuel/air and compression. it's always one of these three....

amp

 

[bob_wood]

wow! all this for a bad plug!

they should be replaced yearly or so. they are so cheap, just think of the money and time you could have saved by trying that first!

yes, internal resistance of a plug can change. it is working in a harsh environment to say the least. many times they look fine but are bad. always try a new plug as one of the first options.

the golden triad: spark, fuel/air and compression. it's always one of these three....

amp

No amp, it was Not all for a bad plug alone ! I had three problems. plug, bad gas and damaged unloader valve.

I checked my maintenance records for my washer and I changed the plug out about a year and a half ago. Guess I'll have to change it more often ... like every year

bob

 

[johnnylight]

Change the spark plug!

pg 4 you were right.

great suggestions I'll have to keep this one future use

 

[johnnylight]

This is an unloader valve. :Yours may look a little different, and may cost less.

Northern Tool + Equipment | Error


http://www.the-power-washer-advisor.com/unloader-valve.html

Hey J.J.

This help me with my Northstar.
Thanks