pressure washer problems

[bob_wood]

I hate to be the one to say it; But, I told you so. I think your problem is fuel flow. When I mentioned pressurizing the tank, this temporarily clears any blockage in the fuel strainer. The real fix would be to disassemble the strainer and clean it. It's item #23 in the picture below.

I removed item 23 , the sediment bowl, and item 4, the float bowl and bothe were clean and i had fuel running out. I did'nt see any strainer ....

Thanks Ken

Bob

 

[bob_wood]

I drained the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel. That helped Alot. The engine will run but only on low RPM's ... will cough and sputter if I go to full RPMs and sometimes the choke lever will go to full choke all on its own. Seems after it "warms up " ( 2 or 3 minutes ) things settle out and I am able to run at full RPMs ok But low pressure at the wand... with new unloader valve in place. I put the old unloader back on and , after going thru the " warm up " with lots of sputtering and an occassional backfire, I am able to go to full RPMs on the engine and get good wand spray / pressure and the pressure washer continues to operate just fine after that. I have no idea why the new unloader will not work. and I have a mean running engine ... but it Does run. SO.......looks like my pump is good, my old unloader valve is good ( for the moment ) , the new unloader valve is bad and I have engine problems. I have not replaced the spark plug yet but will do so soon. Any suggestions ??

and thanks for all the help so far

Bob

 

[J_J]

I don't believe there is a strainer in the sediment bowl. The spark arrester is supposed to be taken out and cleaned every 100 hours. It will get carbon-ed up and cause running problems. It will block the exhaust flow. You should clean it or leave it out. You normally don't need it unless you are using the engine in the woods.

 

[J_J]

Bob, I thought you said the tip of the unloader valve was bad, the part with the spring around it that sits on the top of the ball in the unloader valve. Does you pump unload when you release the trigger. You should hear a strain on the engine, and the water will be warm to hot if unloaded for a while. I am still puzzled why your choke moves all by it self. It should not move until you move it.

 

[bobcatoh]

My air compressor acted the same way, It would start and run for a short time and then quit. It would usually start back up but then die again.
I tried all the fuel suggestions etc. to no avail. Turned out to be the plug.

 

[bob_wood]

I don't believe there is a strainer in the sediment bowl. The spark arrester is supposed to be taken out and cleaned every 100 hours. It will get carbon-ed up and cause running problems. It will block the exhaust flow. You should clean it or leave it out. You normally don't need it unless you are using the engine in the woods.

I tried to take the spark arrestor off J_J but my phillips bit broke off in the screw I will get it off tomorrow ... one way or another . Where did you get that info ... Im curious. Thanks

Bob

 

[bob_wood]

My air compressor acted the same way, It would start and run for a short time and then quit. It would usually start back up but then die again.
I tried all the fuel suggestions etc. to no avail. Turned out to be the plug.

Thanks Bob. I'm going to pick up a new plug tomorrow. I'm wondering if that carberator " gum out " stuff is any good or might help with My engine problem.


Bob

 

[bob_wood]

Bob, I thought you said the tip of the unloader valve was bad, the part with the spring around it that sits on the top of the ball in the unloader valve. Does you pump unload when you release the trigger. You should hear a strain on the engine, and the water will be warm to hot if unloaded for a while. I am still puzzled why your choke moves all by it self. It should not move until you move it.

Hard to explain but the tip of the unloader valve is cupped to seat over the ball bearing .... mine look bent / flared out quite bad on one side ... so it couldnt seat good on the ball. I actually hammered it back into shape...figured my valve was no good anyways so what the heck. It seems to be working, so far. As I explained, after alotta engine sputtering and stuff, my unloader Does work and I get full high pressure spray when I pull the trigger. During the "sputtering " thing, my choke Does sometimes, on its own, go to full choke ... and the engine usually stalls at that point. Thanks for the interest and help J_J .

Bob

 

[J_J]

I tried to take the spark arrestor off J_J but my phillips bit broke off in the screw I will get it off tomorrow ... one way or another . Where did you get that info ... Im curious. Thanks

Bob

From the engine manual page 20, and 28 Most people don't know about the spark arrester screen. I have purchased a good many engines because they could not get them to run. Weed whackers in particular will clog up. Most people, if they know about the screens, will remove them. The engine usually starts and run just fine.

I ran a landscape business for about 20 years, and had to do all the maintenance. I also pressure washed, installed and repaired sprinkler systems, and some tree trimming.

I have a problem right now with water getting in my gas tank on my Dixie Chopper. I know about condensation, but this is about 8 oz of water. About the only conclusion I can come to is that most of the gas caps have an air hole in the very top, and when it rains, the gas tank cools down and acts like a vacuum, and sucks water in. They make a cap with the air vent in the threaded part of the cap that I will try.

You might check that the air vent on your Honda engine is not rusty or plugged up. That will cause some weird problems.

 

[Stimw]

I'm a Honda Engine Dealer and have had my share of troubleshooting with them.
The fuel tank has a very fine strainer in the bottom and for the most part it won't let water through, BUT vibration will let some pass. When ever I service an engine I have a vacuum syphon that hooks to an air hose. I suck the liquid from the sump around the fuel strainer and collect it in a clear container and check for water. I've had engines come in that wouldn't start and I found 6-8 oz of water in the tank. (The guy using that engine ask to go home early and was told no) When changing the fuel you need to get ALL the old out. Soak it up with a paper towel for the last drops.
DO NOT use a Champion spark plug. I've had too many problems with them on Honda's and other engines. Honda calls for NGK and I have only had a couple fail. Make sure it's the right plug, for some reason people like to put short reach plugs in. It needs a long reach, about 3/4"-1".
When the engine is running, try closing the choke about half way and see if it runs smoother. (the choke should have light detentes open and closed) If it does the power valve is stopped up (part # 27) I have a fine piece of stainless wire I use to clean these. The orifice is in the very bottom and the thing is plastic so be careful trying to clean it.
The governor has only one adjustment and it shouldn't change unless someone messed with it.
Honda engines are incredible when they are working right and that is most of the time! Try these tips and see if they help.