Problem tire brands

   / Problem tire brands #21  
I have always put B.F. Goodrich All Terrain radials on my trucks and have always been pleased with the ride and performance. Wouldn't use anything else.
 
   / Problem tire brands
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Bird, I miss typed that sentence, the side wall does only have 60psi. My mind thinks a lot faster than my fingers can peck on the keyboard. Thanks for correcting me.
 
   / Problem tire brands
  • Thread Starter
#23  
froggy, I agree completely. I have had 6 sets of BF Goodrich All Terrains in the past and have always been extremely happy.
 
   / Problem tire brands #24  
I had a set of Bridgestone Duelers APT that not only split within an inch of the rim but also a couple of them had the cords come apart causing a large bubble on the tread. 3 tires in one set did this within 15m. Tires were run at proper pressure. I made Sears swap them out for no charge for Michelin M/S's.
 
   / Problem tire brands #25  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I made Sears swap them out for no charge for Michelin M/S's. )</font>

Can I ask how you made Sears agree to do that? Gerard
 
   / Problem tire brands #26  
I know I'll be in the minority here, but I've found that Michelins have been the absolute worst tire I've ever had on any of my pickups. The problem is not with wear, but traction on wet surfaces. I don't know if there are different types of Michelin tires for light duty trucks, but every set I've had have been terrible. I've paid to have nearly new ones taken off because I couldn't stop on wet pavement.

Last month my brother in law disagreed with me (not uncommon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) and put some Michelins on his Dodge Dakota. During the first rain he rammed some lady from behind at a stop light. He'd had the truck since new and had put plenty of miles on it in the rain and was used to how it would handle. Yes, he took them off too. He sold them in a yard sale and went back to whatever came on his truck.
 
   / Problem tire brands #27  
It's a long story about problems I had with Sears and my truck.... from the truck not being ready at lunch when they said it would be (4 new tires and an alignment), then I told them they had to have it done by 5:00 that day because I had to pick my daughter up.... they hadn't started the alignment at 5:00, truck still on lift with tires off. When I finally drove off, they had forgot to set the toe, needless to say I had to take it back the next day. On the way home 2 of the factory center caps came off and was lost, they had to replace those. In about a month, driving to Orlando on a Friday afternoon and I noticed a shimmy from the front. Pulled over and the cord evidently had started to seperate.. bubble in the tread. Started to take tire off... get to last lug (8 lug wheel) and it was stripped and I couldn't get it off. Put all lugs back on and drive slowly into the North part of Altamont Springs at about 5:30. Pulled into tire shop to see if they could help... they put air ratchet on and broke the lug loose from hub where all it would do was turn with the lug nut. Fortunately they had someone there that changed tires on 18 wheelers and he put me a new tire on wiht the wheel still mounted. The tire did not match brands but did match in size. Got back to Tallahassee, went to Sears to get them to fix and give me a matching replacement tire... Manager said he wouldn't do it because I made the decision to have a new tire mounted. This was after I told him the story of what happended, and told him I didn't make the decision but that Sears had made that decision for me when they stripped the lug. Actually had to go to the Store Manager to get the tire replaced /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif. After this episode... lost another center cap driving home... had to get Sears to replace. Within about a year I had problems with the 2 other tires (1 splitting and another cord seperation). Went to Sears to get them to swap out for another set and told them I wasn't paying a dime. They agreed to satisfy me when I informed them that within the last 10 years I had charged and paid off over $20m from them (challenged them to review credit charge history) and they were close to loosing that business. Actually many of the sales reps new me by name as well as some of the department managers. Sears changed the tires at no cost to me.
 
   / Problem tire brands #28  
I agree... 50 psi seems very low for a 1 ton truck.

The sticker on the driver door of my ford f350 diesel says 85 psi cold on fronts, 80 psi cold on the rear. The E load range tires on it specify maximum load at 110 psi.

That much under inflation will wear out a tire real fast if your truck recommends numbers similar to mine.

What does tire pressure does it recommend on the sticker on the diver door?
 
   / Problem tire brands #29  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The tires that go to the manufacturers for OEM on new vehicles have the very tightest tolerances. The very same label tire that falls outside of that range but still in an acceptable range goes to the tire dealer. That's why OEM tires always seem to last longer and ride better than replacements.

As to the "off-brand" tires being appearing to be superior to the branded tires, the reason is simple - They are! Someone like Sears has such incredible clout as a customer that they can and do negotiate not only better pricing but also better tolerances on their tires as well.
)</font>

I'd noticed that very thing and complained about it to a buddy of mine. I have a 2002 Corvette Z06 that when I got it new was practically glued to the road. It pulled > 1 G through turns like I was going to the grocery. I got a screw in a rear that did a number on it at about 50% wear, and had to replace the whole set because you DON'T mix and match with that car. I tried just replacing the rears and it drove worse than honda with loose front wheels. I replaced the fronts 2 days later, but I noticed that the car didn't have quite the grip and feel that it did on the tires I just replaced @ 50% wear. I was not happy.

I agree that "weather cracking" is most likely heat + low pressure cracking. The low pressure helps make the heat, so does carrying heavy loads.

Some "off brands" may be better because they aren't catering to OEM business. The Toyo Proxes T1 tires I put on the vette have done well - good rain performance over the oem, but not quite as much stick. We had Toyo M5 studded tires put on the truck for winter and they seem pretty good so far too.

If you go to TireRack or other places, you can do research to see what other people have said about the tires.

Sometimes stickier softer tires can last longer than harder compound tires. If the tire squeals a lot - you are over driving them and they will not last very long. I traded V rated tires for Z rated softer tires on my full-sized sedan and they stood up to my abuse for 5000 miles longer than the V rated, rode better AND stuck better in dry or wet AND I spent $4 less per tire (had to be ordered though).

Be prepared to have tires ordered to get what you want.

Me? It doesn't matter what vehicle its going on - I will trade traction for cash over long life and saving $$$ any day. My life, or my families lives, may be saved by that little extra stick.
 
   / Problem tire brands #30  
Interesting! It sounds WAY low to me too. My old Ford had "D" rated tires which used 50psi(3/4 ton 4x4).

My '01 RAM 2500 4x4 specs 65psi front, 80psi rear. That was for the original Michelin LTX. I have 17" take-offs from a '03 on it now, and run the same pressures.
 
   / Problem tire brands #31  
With a one ton truck, especially with a heavy diesel engine in the front, I've always ran at least 65 psi in the fronts. If I'm not hauling anything in the back, I generally get by running 50 psi in them no problem. As I mentioned earlier, I can't speak about the Michelins, as they get pitched as soon as I buy a truck if it has them on it.
 
   / Problem tire brands #32  
I was surprised, the Michelin's were fine. The only thing I did not like about them was they were a street tread. My only other expierince with Michelin was on my wifes IROC Camaro. She ran the high-end performance tires on it. They were great. I have 17" BFG "Rugged Long Trail" now. My Dad has worked for a Dodge dealer for decades; he got a deal on these I could not resist. They are "take-off" Tires, rims, lug nuts ect off a '03 Ram 2500.

If I am not hauling, I will run 65psi front and rear for a little better ride.

The only tire I have ever had issue with was BFG Mud Terrains on my old Ford F250. They were "D" rated, and didn't handle weight so well. It was especially noticable with the camper on. "E" rated tires fixed that.

I have a buddy with another Ram-2500. His Michelins are starting to weather check on him. He is a stickler for for detail in that regard(He is also an awesome FF/Engineer who makes complex hoselays and pump panel ops look easy). His tires have not been run low on pressure. Tread is fine. Sidewall though, has light weather checking.
 
   / Problem tire brands
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Thanks to all for the input. I was hoping to find out if any of you had a brand of tire that was consistently a problem or a brand you would never buy again. Seen a few brands mentioned, but mostly comments about air pressure on this set of tires. Even before finding this cracking, my fault or not, I had no plans of putting Good Year back on the truck. See previous comments.

The last week I have been asking around and have found 4 other people in my area with '03 Dodge 3500 duelies that have had the same problem with the same tires. All were purchased in late '02, so first ones off the line. Mine arrived in November of '02. This was the first year Dodge used the 235/80/17 on its 3500.

Here is my findings for replacement tires. Only brands I can find that have E rated 235/80/17 are Good Year, General, and Cooper.

Good Year price $212 per tire. Do not want these due to previous problems with brand not including this issue.
General, did not get price. Did not like tread design for 4x4.
Cooper H/T price $159 per tire. More of a street tread.
Cooper ATR price $197 per tire. Little more aggressive tread.

Wanted to go up a size to get more options but clearance between the duels will be to small. I have had 2 sets of Coopers in the past and been happy so the Cooper ATR has won out. Having them put on Wednesday morning. I will post pictures next weekend.
 
   / Problem tire brands #34  
I was hoping to find out if any of you had a brand of tire that was consistently a problem or a brand you would never buy again
MF1455v
================
Fire stone- I Will never buy any of their tires.
Bought a new Nissan pick up in 1989 with firestone tires on it.
Within 2 or 3 years the side wall went bad on 3 of them.
They didn't blow out.
Just had cuts about and inch long in them.
Between this experence and the big recall a few years back I won't buy one.
 
   / Problem tire brands #35  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Dargo, my experience with tires has been similar. I have had better luck with some off-brand tires than with the major brands. I put a set from Pep Boys on a '79 pickup that wore forever. I have the second set of Big O tires on my T-100 which have performed better than the Goodyears that came on it. I had a set of Goodriches on my '85 truck that couldn't be balanced and did not wear well. I have also had some cheap off-brand tires that wore out almost overnight. Is there a secret to selecting good tires? )</font>

*****************************
I had a set of Goodriches on my '85 truck that couldn't be balanced
===================
Out of balance isn't the only thing that will cause wheel shimmy.
One of the biggest problems that I've encountered with buying new tires is finding round ones.
You can have one of these perfectly balanced and it will still shimmy if it's out of round.
 
   / Problem tire brands #36  
I work at a factory producing tires. Have spent 31 years working there. Never buy tires of the same type and size that came on your vehicle. Tires are tested and sorted by four factors curing production, balance (vibration), radial force (bouncing up and down), lateral force (shimmey from side to side), and conicity (pulling one way or the other). Tires that meet the requirements of the auto manufacturer go to them, tires that do not meet the auto makers requirements go to replacement dealers. If you buy the same type and size that came on your vehicle you will get tires that did not quite 'make the grade'. Tires from manufacturers vary greatly in quality depending on which plant they were built in. Most of the Firestones that had to be recalled came from one plant that had been suffering labor problems for years. It was closed within two years of the recall. Do NOT but any tires from Mexico. If you do have problems with a set of tires look on the back at the serial code. The first two digits are a letter code that designates the factory where that particular tire was produced in. If you get a bad set insist that the next come from a different plant with a different code.
 
   / Problem tire brands #37  
My wifes uncle retired from a tire plant in Akron Ohio several years ago.



</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I work at a factory producing tires. Have spent 31 years working there. Never buy tires of the same type and size that came on your vehicle. Tires are tested and sorted by four factors curing production, balance (vibration), radial force (bouncing up and down), lateral force (shimmey from side to side), and conicity (pulling one way or the other). Tires that meet the requirements of the auto manufacturer go to them, tires that do not meet the auto makers requirements go to replacement dealers. If you buy the same type and size that came on your vehicle you will get tires that did not quite 'make the grade'. Tires from manufacturers vary greatly in quality depending on which plant they were built in. Most of the Firestones that had to be recalled came from one plant that had been suffering labor problems for years. It was closed within two years of the recall. Do NOT but any tires from Mexico. If you do have problems with a set of tires look on the back at the serial code. The first two digits are a letter code that designates the factory where that particular tire was produced in. If you get a bad set insist that the next come from a different plant with a different code. )</font>
 
   / Problem tire brands #38  
MF1455

Just yesterday, I had my tires replaced.. I have a Dodge H.O. Cummins quad cab, 4X4 short bed,, This is the third truck to come through with Michelins on it... I don't care for the Michelin brand as they wear quickly and always felt "squirly" to me.. Yesterday they were replaced with Cooper Discover ATR 265-75 R16 10 ply (E's).. I pull a BRi-Mar 12,000 GVW trailer and several tractors for local guys besides my tractor.. We have some serious up and downs here, one at over 16%,, They are short, but hard pulls.. I believe (after asking for 2 months) that the Coopers will do me better than the Michelins. More aggressive tread pattern ( good for our snow) 50,000 mile warranty and hopefully side walls will be much stiffer than Michelin.. I picked the truck up May of 01, and just turned 39300 miles yesterday,, Wife's car went 57 thou or so on original tires,,,,
 
   / Problem tire brands #39  
<<
I had a set of Goodriches on my '85 truck that couldn't be balanced and did not wear well.
reb >>

===============
What do you mean by they couldn't be balanced?
Why couldn't they be balanced?
 
   / Problem tire brands #40  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One of the biggest problems that I've encountered with buying new tires is finding round ones )</font>

I've only encountered that problem once in my lifetime and that was just one of the set of 4 Mohawk tires I bought about 35 years ago. And they gave me another new one to replace it.
 

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