Proper way to bind tractor onto trailer?

[QRTRHRS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( From what your are describing in the quote below.. the chains should not be hooked to itself but to the stake pocket? Is a binder used
only in the middle to take up slack or is it to be used as one end and attached to D ring or Stake pocket?


"Chains should be "fed" either down through the pocket and up either side with the hook hanging on the either side. They can also feed down outside the pocket and come up the inside with the hook hanging on either side. )</font> )</font>You have little choice with a D ring but to hook the chain to itself. With pockets, if you hang the hook over the top, even if it slacks, it will not drop off. Even a loose chain is better than one unhooked. Of course the same thing could happen to a binder hook which is why you tighten them correctly and stop periodically as required to check the load.

Binders don't have enough slack to hook to the pockets or D rings directly.

 

[QRTRHRS]

[quoteI would like some stout D-rings but really the stake pockets seem to do the job well and I drop the hook through from above and then hook from the outside to the top of the pocket. )</font>If you have a rub rail then DOT does not want to see chains outside of it. I have seen "integral" stake pockets with no rub rail so then there is no choice.

 

[Highbeam]

No rubrail for me but I could see how it would help to have the hook between a rubrail and the trailer. As it is with my exposed stake pockets, the hook could move around the pocket.

 

[rk246]

What thickness of chains are you all using? do you think 5/16ths is enough?

 

[RonR]

rk246,

Depends on how heavy your tractor is.

I'd look at the specs for Grade 70 chain and get double or triple what your tractor weighs. The extra will account for any sudden loads on the chains. Make sure you binder is rated that good also.


ron

 

[rk246]

okay thanks...

 

[Dargo]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( rk246,
Depends on how heavy your tractor is.

I'd look at the specs for Grade 70 chain and get double or triple what your tractor weighs. The extra will account for any sudden loads on the chains. Make sure you binder is rated that good also.
ron )</font>

Yes, you will get sudden loads when your trailer flexes. I assure you that a trailer made with 6" channel will flex (some are only made with angle, and they will flex big time). It's not a lot, but with with only a 7500 pound tractor on a trailer that is made with 12" I beams using 6" channel only for supports, there is still some flex. Even if your tractor doesn't roll any, you will still get load spikes. Getting chain that is substantially stronger than your attachment points would be a waste though.

 

[TimP]

HIGHBEAM,

Thanks for the info AND the pics. Nice trailer !

Tim

 

[rk246]

So to show my lack of knowledge one more time, Is there different strengths of chain in the same size? ie 5/16 inch chain with 5/16ths, hooks is there different grades in the same size? I always just thought chain was chain?

 

[HarleyBob]

rk, Oh boy, you should not have said that. Now were in for another
couple of pages of details. From what I understand each size chain can have MANY grades and materials. There is proof coil, high test, high tinsel, galvanized, stainless steel, grade 70, grade 43 etc.
Each one will have a rated working load and breaking strength.
Working load is the key number. There is also Chinese chain (much cheaper) and USA chain. There is also chain that is approved by the CHP that must be coated with gold. The Chinese chains, sold by Harbor Freight etc, are still rated
at Grade 70 and Grade 43 and are legal. The hooks also vary greatly in their working strength for a given size. The binders
also come in different strenghts for a give size. A general rule of thumb is that cheaper means lower working load.
Hbob