PTO generator problems with electical approval. Pls help

[Rock knocker]

Since no one will come right out and tell me what ESA stands for I'll have to guess that ESA is the inspection agency and this is a permitted job.

I don't think any interlocks are fully UL rated. If that is what is being required you'll need a trasfer switch.

 

[gogojuice]

Sorry,

ESA = Electrical Safety Authority. (Inspector)

https://www.geninterlock.com/images/layout/Recognition_Letter_84974_r1.pdf

Here is the UL rating. (UL67)

The inspector couldn't find anything on the device so automatically discounted it. It is being resent with the info.. he should of found.. and is looking at it now.
I don't have much hope as he was so quick to discount it without researching it.

 

[Rock knocker]

Sorry,

ESA = Electrical Safety Authority. (Inspector)

https://www.geninterlock.com/images/layout/Recognition_Letter_84974_r1.pdf

Here is the UL rating. (UL67)

The inspector couldn't find anything on the device so automatically discounted it. It is being resent with the info.. he should of found.. and is looking at it now.
I don't have much hope as he was so quick to discount it without researching it.

That letter basically says nothing. UL67 are the standards for electrical panel boards which must be met. The panel is then inspected and receives its UL rating seperately. That interlock has no UL rating, and even if it did, to be used as a recognized assembly with your Cutler panel the entire assembly would have to be inspected. The MET labratory recognition mark has the very same weight as the "Rock Knocker Recognition Mark", it is just something somebody said.

You asked your electrician to give you a hook up which was "OK". This he did, your interlock will work fine as long as you load shed when it is energized. But it certainly will never met CSA or UL rating, nor will it likely pass a inspection in your neck of the woods (although there are spots in the USA that would pass such an assemblage).

How much did the electrician charge you? Installation of that interlock should be about a ten minute job. You will now either need a real life transfer switch which will pass inspection, or cancell your inspection and make do with the interlock or a combination of the interlock and a subpanel.

 

[Rock knocker]

MET Labs is the anti-UL. From their website

25+ years ago, we broke the UL monopoly for product safety testing and certification in the United States.

So if an agency requires UL certification, and you get MET certs instead, then you're SOL

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,
I believe you are using a 2nd hand manufactured part. It is not in the true UL approved system.

Did you notice the paperwork instructions with it? Was it a real Cutler-Hammer instructions?

Anyway. What you need to do. You need to purchase a real interlock from the manufacturer of your panel. If you have a Cutler-Hammer service panel, you will need to see if Cutler-Hammer makes a approved interlock. You would then have the proper certification to get approved.

Cutler-Hammer BR Panel interlock Kits Brochure

 

[TractorGuy]

A "whole house" system would require both a generator AND transfer switch that matches the capacity of your panel.

The 16kw rating on your generator is probably the peak or surge rating. Most homes will have 200 amp panels these days.

If you were planning to pull a permit you should have told the electrician that up front and had him pull the permit.

 

[MAN IN BLACK]

What is ESA?

ELECTRICAL SAFETY AUTHORITY

 

[daybreak1998]

Howdy,

UL and ULc are met by the manufacturer. You need to purchase a real Cutler-Hammer part. Not a copy.

 

[TheMan419]

Have you contacted the electrician? Seems he should be involved in bringing the project to code at his cost. Unless you specified the parts and e just installed them.

We are in process of upgrading house to 200 amp service, installing gen panel and a bunch of other stuff.

Contractor pulls all permits and insures we pass inspection. If not they fix whatever is wrong at no additional cost to me.

 

[RNeumann]

Howdy,
I believe you are using a 2nd hand manufactured part. It is not in the true UL approved system.

Did you notice the paperwork instructions with it? Was it a real Cutler-Hammer instructions?

Anyway. What you need to do. You need to purchase a real interlock from the manufacturer of your panel. If you have a Cutler-Hammer service panel, you will need to see if Cutler-Hammer makes a approved interlock. You would then have the proper certification to get approved.

Cutler-Hammer BR Panel interlock Kits Brochure

This is it.

Calling an electrician to install a product the OP found on eBay is what they did. Now turning around and saying the device isn't approved- must be the electrician's fault- is misguided. It's a different story if you had called the electrician and asked them them to provide the parts as well.

Sounds like the eBay seller is misrepresenting something and the inspector caught it. Bummer.

The other option is a "whole house" transfer switch. The manual ones are under $1000 depending on the amps needed. 100a, 200a or rarely larger on a house.