PTO shaft "stub" broke off

[k0ua]

Ok, mKes sense. If I can't do that part, I may run that to the dealer. See if they can throw me a bone and stake it if I bring them the part.

You have an automatic centerpunch don't you?. if not they are about 5 bucks.

 

[KenB2920]

You have an automatic centerpunch don't you?. if not they are about 5 bucks.

Actually I do. And with you building my confidence, I may try it. We shall see when I get it apart.

Also, is it correct u have to drain all my hydraulic fluid? Not that it difficult, I just did a fluid and filter change about a month ago and don't want to lose any if that expensive fluid

 

[k0ua]

Actually I do. And with you building my confidence, I may try it. We shall see when I get it apart.

Also, is it correct u have to drain all my hydraulic fluid? Not that it difficult, I just did a fluid and filter change about a month ago and don't want to lose any if that expensive fluid

Just a guess, but my thoughts are you are going to drain it one way or the other.. Either thru the drain plug hole, or thru the housing when you remove it.:shocked:

 

[k0ua]

I am thinking take a look at how the mentioned nut was "staked" from the factory, and see if you can duplicate that look.

 

[murphy1244]

You also might want to run your fluid thru a strainer to get out any metal pieces that are in there.

 

[MHarryE]

ku0a said it - the illustration shows this special nut has a thin portion. After torquing the nut, staking is deforming a portion of this thin she'll into what is likely a groove in the shaft. You should see this deformation on the existing nut. On reason they say to use a new nut is that this deformed area is going to act like a deformed lock nut and will take an unknown torque value just to screw it on the threads of the new shaft so when you get things tightened, the actual tightening torque will be lower than spec.

 

[KenB2920]

You also might want to run your fluid thru a strainer to get out any metal pieces that are in there.

Good call, it "appears" dry where it broke so I was thinking of shop vaccing (real scientific term :-/. ). It out. However straining it would be good.

 

[KenB2920]

ku0a said it - the illustration shows this special nut has a thin portion. After torquing the nut, staking is deforming a portion of this thin she'll into what is likely a groove in the shaft. You should see this deformation on the existing nut. On reason they say to use a new nut is that this deformed area is going to act like a deformed lock nut and will take an unknown torque value just to screw it on the threads of the new shaft so when you get things tightened, the actual tightening torque will be lower than spec.

Ok interesting, I didn't make it to the dealer to get the PTO shaft but TSO grabbed it for me. It appears they haven't done many of these and weren't sure of the procedure. I asked about the nut and they had no comment. They did show the diagram and seem to help when and if I have questions. So hopefully all goes well.

 

[KenB2920]

The Lxx40 WSM states to remove the PTO shaft cover; remove the PTO bearing case mounting bolts and draw out the PTO shaft with the bearing case; remove the internal snap ring; tap out the shaft toward the front. On reassembly, it says to replace the lock nut with a new one if the lock nut was removed and be sure to stake firmly, install the slinger firmly, apply grease to the oil seal and install it noting the proper direction. The lock nut torques to 108 to 145 ft-lb before staking. The bearing case mounting screws torque to 17 to 20 ft-lb.

I meant to ask, is there any sealant suggested when connecting it all back together ?

 

[square1]

Have you told us how it happened yet? Inquiring minds want to avoid a similar experience