Pulling with the Drawbar

[Caretaker]

Off on a tangent here - someone made reference to tracter hop, which I've had the pleasure of experiencing! I recall reading a discussion in one of the JD "how-to" books about the causes. cures. etc. It occurrs the me that tractor hop would be cured by shock absorbers - anyone ever heard anything about that? Does anyone know if any compact tractors come with shock absorbers? I suspect the large machines might...

 

[Bird]

Caretaker, don't forget that a shock absorber works with springs (or some kind of suspension) and helps prevent wheel hop on car type suspensions; no place to put one on a tractor since tires, wheels, axles, etc. is one solid assembly with no suspension.

The only way I know to stop wheel hop on a tractor is what mdewald said to do.

Bird<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Bird on 12/27/00 11:56 AM.</FONT></P>

 

[mccash40]

I'm reopening this old thread, as I just received my load of 16' firewood logs and will be snaking them out back to cut up. They aren't large diameter logs, maybe 8 to 14" max. I am a bit concerned about ruining my 3PH so I thought I'd send along a picture of the pulling rig I have (connected to my splitter) and get your opinion as to whether it will be OK for my hitch to pull the logs.

 

[RoyJackson]

The drawbar is the one mounted below and between the 3ph lower arms.

A better (less confusing) description might be "the drawbar is the one below the tractor's PTO stub shaft" since (IMHO) any mention of the lower 3PH arm (draft links is the correct term I think) suggests use of the 3PH.
Just my opinion...

 

[arrow]

I'm reopening this old thread, as I just received my load of 16' firewood logs and will be snaking them out back to cut up. They aren't large diameter logs, maybe 8 to 14" max. I am a bit concerned about ruining my 3PH so I thought I'd send along a picture of the pulling rig I have (connected to my splitter) and get your opinion as to whether it will be OK for my hitch to pull the logs.
View attachment 397006

I have a personal assertion that if your tractor is capable of pulling a certain weight, the 3 pt should be able to support the tractors ability. If your tractor just spins it's wheels or bogs down at a certain static load its attempting to pull, to me, you are overtaxing the tractor and thus it's 3 pt system. I could be way off here but it's just sensical to me presently. In the picture I use my tractor like this all the time. If something fails on the tractor such as a rear end gearing or transmission, or the 3 pt, then to me, they did not build the tractor correctly for it's capability and I'll move on to another brand.

In the first pic, this may appear to be a lot of weight the tractor is skidding on it's 3 pt but you have to cut the figure of these logs' weight in half. Maybe there is 600lbs of static load on this 3 pt. My 3 pt is rated for over 2200ibs. The second picture is a better test. This log is approaching 1700 lbs. What is your 3 pt rated for? Not trying to beat the tractors chest here but just trying to back up my claims of what a 3 pt should be able to do for any size tractor.

 

[fieldman12]

ILS by John Deere I think is what your looking for.Those that have this option do not want to swap back to a solid axle.

8335R ILS - YouTube

 

[fieldman12]

John Deere 8345R Walk-Around - YouTube

 

[s219]

I'm reopening this old thread, as I just received my load of 16' firewood logs and will be snaking them out back to cut up. They aren't large diameter logs, maybe 8 to 14" max. I am a bit concerned about ruining my 3PH so I thought I'd send along a picture of the pulling rig I have (connected to my splitter) and get your opinion as to whether it will be OK for my hitch to pull the logs.
View attachment 397006

That looks like the same exact combination hitch and skid plate I have. You should be able to lift the butt of 8-14" logs no problem with that, and then skid them to where you want to go. I've done it hundreds of times, first on a B and then on an L. The other end of the log will be on the ground taking at least 1/2 the weight, and I think your BX can handle the rest.

Getting the butt up out of the dirt will make them easier to drag and move, and minimize the chances you'll run into obstacles that can hang up the log. Go for it -- start with a small log and get a feel for it. Go slow.

Cut them down to 8' each if the 16 footers are too long. I almost always worked with 8' sections just because maneuverability is tough with a 16' log, and it's a lot heavier.

 

[s219]

Found a pic:

 

[tcreeley]

The really heavy loads pull better from a lower angle to avoid your front end getting light and the wheels coming up off the ground - big logs sticking on a rut etc. Then use the low drawbar hookup. To pull your light log splitter around, the 3 pt drawbar works great.
I have used the 3 pt draw bar to lift the butt of a log then drag it (log arch idea). Mostly it is just commonsense. Super heavy - hook low, other stuff use the 3 pt drawbar.
Watch some of the crazy russian tractor videos on youtube to see this illustrated when you have too much weight behind!

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Universal 445-Dule bugarin - YouTube

Tragya hordas 1 resz UTB 650 - YouTube