Putting in a gravel driveway

   / Putting in a gravel driveway #51  
True, in his case it helps. For me, I have to go by what depth the ditch is (pictured was a drain) and ideally I can keep the level uniform on both sides of it.

That described 24" culvert does have a somewhat substantial hump over it and bridges the main irrigation ditch. Sure, I could easily add some dirt to that one, but it's already a bit close to touching some trailer's landing gear.

But since that's not a drive I regularly plow, it's fine as is.
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway
  • Thread Starter
#53  
I would set the pipe at the bottom, add your no organic material to the top the pipe, compacting as you go. Then do your road bed.
I would think that is too low though. If the bottom of that dip is 7' lower than level with the rest of the driveway, and I already have material to either side, I would think I'd need to be at least a couple feet higher wouldn't I to keep the culvert fro being buried? Or maybe you are thinking I need to remove material on both sides to create a path for the water?
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway #54  
Your culvert should be at the low point of it's installation point, otherwise it will trap water and saturate your fill site and driveway.
You should contour out a drain swale or ditch and put the culvert in that run.

You are need a long culvert, I wouldn't be surprised if you need a thirty or even forty footer (2 twenties).
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway #55  
Exchanged emails with a local pit and they gave me a quote for 1' of -4 bank run gravel. Isn't 1' a bit much?
The guy that did my drive used a 6-way dozer and dug out 1.5' of soil, then it was filled with 4" crushed rock. He said the odd shapes of crushed is way better than rounded rock for "locking together". He then used his big vibrating roller to get the base tight. Crusher run topped it off and was rolled. If the base isn't sufficient, you will be in trouble in the spring when the frost comes out.
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway #56  
I would think that is too low though. If the bottom of that dip is 7' lower than level with the rest of the driveway, and I already have material to either side, I would think I'd need to be at least a couple feet higher wouldn't I to keep the culvert fro being buried? Or maybe you are thinking I need to remove material on both sides to create a path for the water?
It's all in what you want. I really think taking away 3-4 ft of your 7 ft dip will make a plenty good drive, without the added expense/effort/maintenance issues of filling the whole 7 ft. However, if that is what you want, no dip at all, flat, yes, you'll still need to place something like 4 ft of fill over the pipe. Just keep in mind the slope, or retaining walls. I would definitely set the pipe at the bottom; we aren't trying to dam water at all.

I'm also a cheap ass; so, my thought, if it was me, 15" pipe at bottom, 12" fill, maybe upto 24" fill; our 12" base, and see what you think; if unhappy, pull the base off and add more clean fill. Part of my worry is cost, but also compaction and settling. Settling on 24" of fill might be 2-4"; settling on 60" of fill; 5-10", maybe more. We aren't getting to 95/98% density with the tractor and pick ups.
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway #57  
I would think that is too low though. If the bottom of that dip is 7' lower than level with the rest of the driveway, and I already have material to either side, I would think I'd need to be at least a couple feet higher wouldn't I to keep the culvert fro being buried? Or maybe you are thinking I need to remove material on both sides to create a path for the water?
I would not keep the dip in there, at least not much of it. Hiring someone that knows what they are doing with a 6-way dozer would really jump start your project.
 
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   / Putting in a gravel driveway #58  
What did the low spot look like before you started? I assume water drained through it. When you’re all done I assume water will still drain to it. Put the culvert in too high you built a dam and the water will back up until it gets high enough to run through the culvert. Put it in too low and water will force its way through it but will silt in over time.
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway #59  
Part of my worry is cost, but also compaction and settling. Settling on 24" of fill might be 2-4"; settling on 60" of fill; 5-10", maybe more. We aren't getting to 95/98% density with the tractor and pick ups.
I really lucked out with my driveway widening, getting decent rain almost every afternoon, so compaction was relatively easy on a layer at a time.

Of course, this fill was no more than three feet thick, and I was pleasantly surprised when "testing" it with the M936 once it had dried out a bit. With 20,000 lbs. on three tires it only left normal tire tracks in the uncompacted road base, no ruts. How it'll work in the spring remains to be seen.

When making the pad for the barn I obviously had only one shot at it. Oddly enough I managed to be within two inches of level over 80+ feet (using no instruments) over slightly sloped ground and Morton claimed that it was the highest compaction they'd ever seen. Used a water truck and rented compactor for that one.
 
   / Putting in a gravel driveway
  • Thread Starter
#60  
What did the low spot look like before you started? I assume water drained through it. When you’re all done I assume water will still drain to it. Put the culvert in too high you built a dam and the water will back up until it gets high enough to run through the culvert. Put it in too low and water will force its way through it but will silt in over time.
The ground does slope from the high end of the driveway to the low end naturally and all the way to the back of the property. That is still the case unless we back fill some of that area which we might. Even backfilled there should still be a slope.

One of my thoughts, that wouldn't involve a culvert is to build up the high side until it is level with the rest of that side of the driveway. Then the entire driveway is level. Then handle water management either by pitching the entire driveway so the water sheets off to the low side. I was also thinking that if I went with a crown I could bury perforated pipe, wrapped in fabric, to both sides and move water that way. I've not seen it done that way before but it was a thought similar to what you would do along the foundation of a home.
 

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