Quarter Inching..

[snpower]

Almost. The way it was demonstrated to me is to rapidly pull or push the lever to the stop and back to neutral. Each quick pull and release will move the hitch about a quarter inch. Try doing that in rapid fire fashion and see if your hitch moves in small increments. That's how the quarter inching feature is suppose to work, though I guess it's good too for slow movement if you hold it at the stops.

Ok I don't get it - my unit has always done that. I don't see how the aforementioned stops do anything in that case. Before I bent them the lever really didn't even make contact.

 

[marxman]

YouTube - ‪Kubota B7610 Quarter Inch Valve versus Position Control‬‏

That's a helpful video, thanks!!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Ok I don't get it - my unit has always done that. I don't see how the aforementioned stops do anything in that case. Before I bent them the lever really didn't even make contact.

Agree. Its just an aid to manually limiting the time the valve is open. A selling point apparently, but very little benefit.
larry

 

[skspurling]

You are right on those springs....... my bad. I was thinking of something else when I wrote that. I'll check mine later to see how it does return, though I do know that it will stay all the way forward in the outer slot for the float as you suggest.

Dealer told me that quarter inching was in the up direction only. Maybe it is different between the b and bx.

 

[kuboman]

The only real benefit position control has is it will maintain position of hitch as it tends to sag, but there still is a certain amount of sag before it will react. A properly set 1/4" valve is very easy and accurate to operate. It is hard to fathom the debate about this.:confused2:
The whole L series jerky hitch problem would not be a problem if it was a 1/4" valve.

 

[TripleR]

The only real benefit position control has is it will maintain position of hitch as it tends to sag, but there still is a certain amount of sag before it will react. A properly set 1/4" valve is very easy and accurate to operate. It is hard to fathom the debate about this.:confused2:
The whole L series jerky hitch problem would not be a problem if it was a 1/4" valve.

I guess maybe it gets down to what you are use to using and what you use it for. With a background in farming and the need to raise and lower equipment at the end of every turn row for ten-twelve hours a day and have it remain at the same height, I just accepted that as "the norm".

I lived with a BX2200 for several years without quarter inching or position control and am living with a BX2660 with quarter inching now. I just like the convenience of precise repeatability and and not having to bump my cutter or blade up as I am going about my work. I use a box blade for counter balance while using my FEL and it is an aggravation to have to bump it up ever once in a while to keep it from digging in unexpectedly.

Although I can and have used all types, I simply dislike anything but position control and will never bu another tractor with it if I can at all avoid it.

Only one of our position control tractors, an older model MF sags while none of the others do. The 3PH on the MF never has worked right.

 

[ChuckinNH]

On my B model Kubota there is a stop that can be set to limit how far the implement drops, and I have used it with some success when using the rotary cutter, etc. It is a trial, and error thing, and does require a wrench, but it's functional, and I get very little drift down. I've learned that the implement, (on my tractor) will drop a little lower than you initially guess so I drop the implement to a position a bit higher than what I want, slide the stop up, and tighten it, and it seems to work. It sure isn't as nice as position control, but it works at least. Now if I can get used to the tractor going where the bucket takes it, even in float mode sometimes without steering brakes that are useable most of the time, I'll be all set. ( the brakes work great with the cruise control set) My B is pretty light on the front like the old tricycle Allis Chalmers C we had on the farm, and even though that was a long time ago, I still am used to using the brakes on snow, or doing some loader work like back dragging, etc. I used a loader very little (we didn't even have one on the farm, and my dad didn't see the need with two strong boys, and a couple of dung forks) so I'm still learning the best way to do some things. For other newbies to tractor hydralulics, try using the angle on the back of the bucket for back dragging instead of using the dump angle, and lip of the bucket. The hydraulic cylinders will love you for it, and it works surprisingly well in many cases. My Kubota QA does get in the way sometimes though. Now that I've gotten used to it, I sure wouldn't want a round back bucket.

 

[TripleR]

On my B model Kubota there is a stop that can be set to limit how far the implement drops, and I have used it with some success when using the rotary cutter, etc. It is a trial, and error thing, and does require a wrench, but it's functional, and I get very little drift down. I've learned that the implement, (on my tractor) will drop a little lower than you initially guess so I drop the implement to a position a bit higher than what I want, slide the stop up, and tighten it, and it seems to work. It sure isn't as nice as position control, but it works at least. Now if I can get used to the tractor going where the bucket takes it, even in float mode sometimes without steering brakes that are useable most of the time, I'll be all set. ( the brakes work great with the cruise control set) My B is pretty light on the front like the old tricycle Allis Chalmers C we had on the farm, and even though that was a long time ago, I still am used to using the brakes on snow, or doing some loader work like back dragging, etc. I used a loader very little (we didn't even have one on the farm, and my dad didn't see the need with two strong boys, and a couple of dung forks) so I'm still learning the best way to do some things. For other newbies to tractor hydraulics, try using the angle on the back of the bucket for back dragging instead of using the dump angle, and lip of the bucket. The hydraulic cylinders will love you for it, and it works surprisingly well in many cases. My Kubota QA does get in the way sometimes though. Now that I've gotten used to it, I sure wouldn't want a round back bucket.

Chuck, I have been using FEL equipped tractors since about 1986 and am still learning and doubt I will ever reach the level of expertise I would like.

 

[TigerfaninAR]

Dealer told me that quarter inching was in the up direction only. Maybe it is different between the b and bx.

This is how my B2320 works. Maybe I just need to adjust the down stop so it will work as it does in the up direction.

 

[ChuckinNH]

Moving the down stop does change the way the hitch works in that direction, but the operating lever doesn't come back to the center by itself on mine. I notice on the BX tractors it does in both directions.

 

[jhoward000]

The way a quarter-inching valve works, at least on a B-series, can be thought of like this:

The 3ph will raise and lower at two speeds: very slow or very fast. The speed depends on how far you move the lever from center in either direction. The "L-shaped stops" shown in Chuck's original post are simply designed to help you control how far you move the lever, and therefore whether you move the 3ph "Fast" or "slow". They should be adjusted so that when you move the lever to the first "detent" on the stop, the 3ph moves at the slow speed, which allows for much more precision in where you position your implement. This slow, precise control is the "quarter-inching" function. When you move the lever all the way to the stop (past the detent), the 3ph moves at the fast speed.

Once I figured thid out, everything became much easier, especially using a rotary cutter. As the rotary cutter sags, I simply pull the lever up to the 1st detent and it very slowly raises up and I release the lever when it's where it needs to be. If I go too far, I can push the lever to the 1st detent in the down direction to compensate and the mower will very slowly lower. This actually works very well and makes it easy to precisely control implement position. I have never had to readjust these stops once I got them set. I'm not sure why dealers don't do this.

You can experiment with the 3ph lever to see what I mean. If you have the 3ph in its lower position, very slowly raise the lever. At first, the 3ph will raise very slowly. However, as you continue to move the lever farther back (up) very slowly, you will eventually hit a point where the hitch suddenly moves to high speed and raises quickly. The adjustable stops are there to help prevent you from moving the lever to the "fast" speed position by stopping the lever at the detent before it goes too far, yet easily allowing you to bypass the detent when needed for a fast speed.

It sort of reminds me of old radios that had two tuning knobs: coarse and fine tuning. The coarse knob would move the dial fast, but imprecisely, while the fine-tune knob was slow but very precise. It's basically the same principle.

Maybe this didn't cloud the discussion even more

 

[snpower]

That's a GREAT explanation. :thumbsup: I think that, the confusing part for me, was that the factory stops weren't doing anything whatsoever. After bending them somewhat they now contact the lever if I pull it in towards the seat while raising/lowering. This was critical because before it was impossible for me to have much control over blade/rake height when grooming our driveway which uses small (pea type) gravel or box scraping.

 

[paladin32776]

My 50ct about the "quarter inching valve":

All the things stated above about how you can set it up are correct.

However, this type of valve is still just the el-cheapo version of a position control valve:
The adjustments I can make with the position control valve on a 40 year old Massey are as accurate as the ones I can do with the Position control valve on my B3200. And it is MUCH easier to setup and hold a certain position with the position control valve. There is no advantage I could find so far that would convince me to get a quarter inching if I'd have had the choice (!) on my B3200.
I'd happily pay more for the tractor to get a pos. control valve.
Quarter inching is certainly workable, I do it everyday, but in the end, the reason it was introduced, is to increase profit margins.

 

[jhoward000]

Yep, not sure I can think of any advantages of the "quarter-inching" valve (for the consumer/user, anyway) over a true position valve.

A position valve lets you move the 3ph at any speed you want, stop it where you want, keep the implement in a set position without needing adjustment, and repeatedly lower the implement to the same position quickly.

 

[kuboman]

The qtr inching valve is just like the loader or implement valve but with adjustable stops. The more you pull back the faster it will raise and visa versa for lowering except you do have a valve to limit lowering speed. So just think of it like you are raising or lowering the loader. What do you do when you want a slow controlled raising of the loader? You pull back very slowly until you get the desired response. For a small incremental raising of the 3 pt you adjust the stop so when you give the lever a short bump you get a small (1/4") rise in the 3pt.
Very simple, very effective.:thumbsup:

 

[paladin32776]

Regular implement valve for the 3PH ... makes me think:

Kind of like using a stick to drive a nail. Would work better if a hammer head would be attached to the stick, but eventually you sure get the nail in the wall with just the stick as well (And all the adjustments, just awesome: you can use both ends of the stick! And the stick is sooo simple.)

Sure saves the manufacturer a lot cash ... part of which they can invest into Mktg to make customers think that the stick is just what they wanted.

 

[kuboman]

Regular implement valve for the 3PH ... makes me think:

Kind of like using a stick to drive a nail. Would work better if a hammer head would be attached to the stick, but eventually you sure get the nail in the wall with just the stick as well (And all the adjustments, just awesome: you can use both ends of the stick! And the stick is sooo simple.)

Sure saves the manufacturer a lot cash ... part of which they can invest into Mktg to make customers think that the stick is just what they wanted.

WOW:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::confused2:

 

[bp fick]

Thought I'd resurrect this thread by ChuckinNH. Here's the reason for my post.

I worked a couple of hours, using my middlebuster to plow up some of the gardens yesterday. Let me say again that my B2320 unit came with the adjustments just about perfect. Dumb luck? I dunno. But as I plowed, I could bump up or down precisely. I would look back to see what it was doing. Flawless operation. Need a 1/4"? one quick bump. 1/2"? two quick bumps.

I don't mean to compare/contrast this with the Lxx00 series and their inability to inch up or down, nor I am taking consolation from the misery of others, but I just gotta say, THAT would drive me bananas. The unit on my tractor works as advertised. Flat out.

 

[skspurling]

So, does yours bump in the downward direction? Mine will work in the upward direction, but downwards you would have to push and pull. There's no spring return back to the middle in the downward direction. Is there supposed to be? I don't see how it would work if there was. Not with the default setup.

 

[bp fick]

So, does yours bump in the downward direction? Mine will work in the upward direction, but downwards you would have to push and pull. There's no spring return back to the middle in the downward direction. Is there supposed to be? I don't see how it would work if there was. Not with the default setup.

Yes and no. Yes, it can be bumped in the downward direction, but there is no spring return such as the upward direction has. Why Kubota designed it that way if far, far above my pay grade to discuss. Perhaps ChuckinNH will jump back in here, since he started the thread.

Since my hand is on the lever, I just "rock it" or "pulse it", if that makes sense. That it does or does not spring back to center doesn't effect my use, although, it would be nice if it were the same auto centering both directions.