Buying Advice Questions about potential purchase, not sure where to start

[Yander]

Stick with Kubota or Yanmar. JD is over Priced for what you get unless you get an older model that was built 100% by Yanmar. Those are harder to find because people don't want to part with them.

 

[WinterDeere]

Stick with Kubota or Yanmar. JD is over Priced for what you get unless you get an older model that was built 100% by Yanmar. Those are harder to find because people don't want to part with them.

I owned two old Yanmar JD’s, and they were great tractors for their time, but the cost of parts on these 40 year old machines is insane, and availability is starting to become a problem.

The last one was sold when one of my steering knuckle castings cracked. I had to buy a whole new front axle assembly, because no one carried the early version of the casting on that tractor as a stand-alone part. It was 33 years old, at the time.

The one before that was sold because it was only gear drive, manual steering 4wd (oof!), and had a fixed loader that wasn’t removable. That just didn’t work for my needs. That was a 1978 model, if I recall.

I won’t knock those antiques, they were great for the time, but wouldn’t want to rely on one as my only tractor.

When is the last time Yanmar even made a CUT for Deere?

 

[WVH1977]

Before I had my current excavator, I needed to clean up an acre of land on my previous property. Lots of good size trees, junk, big concrete chunks and such. I started this project with just my tractor and tools. Soon realized I needed something better.

I researched and rented a mini-ex. I got the biggest one the rental place had at the time. I worked on it for a week and got everything done except burning the piles of stumps and sticks. After that, I did all the finish work with the tractor. It MAKES a big difference with real construction equipment to get clearing done if you have the funds to do it.

If you can swing it, rent the mini-ex and clear it the way you want it, then take the rest of the cash and look for a tractor after for clean-up work.

 

[WinterDeere]

From someone who owns a tractor with a pinned bucket. I can unpin and drop my forks or bucket in two minutes on my Yanmar.

.. and attach a snow plow or forks? C’mon, there’s a reason QA tractors are bought more, and bring higher resale, than pinned bucket tractors. Very few users want to be hammering pins out and back in every time they want to change attachments, and then fabricating their own attachment mounts to fit on some odd old pin arrangement no one uses anymore.

I’d guess if you can’t afford the machine you want, and this is the deciding factor, then you do what you have to do. Or if you absolutely know you won’t want to change FEL attachments, dedicated bucket-loader scenario, then go for it. But I’d never buy a pinned bucket machine, if my intent was to have it be a multi-purpose user, changing between different attachments at-will.

Maybe the people who have never owned both just don’t get it. I’ve owned both, and would never go back. Pinned buckets are obsolete tech for the single-tractor household, IMO.

 

[jyoutz]

I owned two old Yanmar JD’s, and they were great tractors for their time, but the cost of parts on these 40 year old machines is insane, and availability is starting to become a problem.

The last one was sold when one of my steering knuckle castings cracked. I had to buy a whole new front axle assembly, because no one carried the early version of the casting on that tractor as a stand-alone part. It was 33 years old, at the time.

The one before that was sold because it was only gear drive, manual steering 4wd (oof!), and had a fixed loader that wasn’t removable. That just didn’t work for my needs. That was a 1978 model, if I recall.

I won’t knock those antiques, they were great for the time, but wouldn’t want to rely on one as my only tractor.

When is the last time Yanmar even made a CUT for Deere?

The small JD4100 tractors sold in the early 2000s were made entirely by Yanmar. These were only 20hp tractors, but they were really nice for the size. I owned one for 22 trouble-free years.

 

[WinterDeere]

The small JD4100 tractors sold in the early 2000s were made entirely by Yanmar. These were only 20hp tractors, but they were really nice for the size. I owned one for 22 trouble-free years.

That's a lot better than I thought, and I know Yanmar has always made great machines, but still... I don't know if I'd recommend this OP seek out a machine that's already 20 - 25 years old to start. Cost of parts is already climbing today on a machine of that age, and once you get past 30 - 35 years, availability of parts usually starts to become a problem.

OP was talking about 2-5 year old machines, if I recall.

If you want to get a pretty good idea of pricing on more "slightly" used tractors, check out one of the bigger resellers, like Good Works Tractors or Messicks. They usually have an assortment of machines under 10 years old, from which you can get a quick gauge on typical asking prices.

 

[JasperFrank]

After seeing pics of the property, I'll double down that you don't need a tractor. From what I can assess, you want a tractor. And this is a tractor site, so of course, we are going to encourage you to get one. I'm seeing some tricky areas, of slope and open rock, that someone with little experience should not tackle. But pros, with the right equipment could make short work of, and then you are good to go as having defensible spaces, to immediately enjoy and build upon.
Sorry to be the contrarian here.
Edit,.... and what ever amount of fill dirt you think is enough.... double that, and know where it is coming from.

 

[California]

I know Yanmar has always made great machines, but still... I don't know if I'd recommend this OP seek out a machine that's already 20 - 25 years old

I own a couple of Yanmars from way back then. The YM240 built in 1980 is clearly an early 70's design, alternator, regulator etc are same as early 70's Datsun.

After buying the YM240 and cleaning up a lot of prior-owner neglect in 2003, the only repairs it's needed is where my boneheaded mis-use broke something. It's never been off the property to a professional mechanic. Everything is designed to be maintained and repaired by any farmer who has a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. I like to think this specific model was what spooked Deere into contracting Yanmar to build all the under 50 hp John Deere's, Yanmar was already building tractors that Deere couldn't exceed in quality.

This model Yanmar was sold worldwide (as YM2000) so there are still replica NAPA-quality parts out there. In contrast, some of the tractors that Deere contracted to Yanmar to build, were excellent quality but Deere no longer stocks their unique parts so they really are un-supportable orphans.

I wouldn't recommend the old Yanmars and Deere's that don't have dealer support, to someone with no DIY instincts.

 

[2manyrocks]

As the owner of a 226d, I would say the older yanmars were very high quality, but the issues tend to be owner neglect over the years since they were new.

 

[California]

As the owner of a [Yanmar] 226d, I would say the older yanmars were very high quality, but the issues tend to be owner neglect over the years since they were new.

Uh yeah. Pix of prior owner neglect/abuse I had to remedy in 2003. No problems since!

Hydraulic 'strainer' in the sump. I had to destroy it to get it out, the o-ring at the shoulder had turned to cement. After replacing it, subsequent fluid changes haven't shown the debris evident on this.

More prior-owner abuse. One of the wheels has '$25' on it, so not the first time he destroyed a wheel. How????

It was a gamble to buy this YM240 (cheap!) but I won the gamble, repairing everything when I bought it has subsequently given me 20 years of reliable service. The fundamental Yanmar quality survived all the neglect that prior owners threw at it.

Folks, don't treat an expensive new tractor like this!

 

[careyo63]

My YM2000 same Hyd. pickup screen was in bad shape also. You could tell the Screen had been replaced on it. And was still bent up! Without much doubt looking at the seam and how thick it was compared to the new and Org.. I found out doing Maint.. Old Hyd. fluid was Whale oil basiacly esp. from Japan so I'm sure that had a lot to do with it. I replaced the Filter with a new Org.. I gladly waited the a couple days before refilling it! The bottom of the Hyd. oil pan had at least 1" of Crisco oil looking sediment on it! And it Stank scraping it all out!!
Lived in Balt. Md. so I know what a fresh fish market smells like!

 

[fattylumpkins]

After seeing pics of the property, I'll double down that you don't need a tractor. From what I can assess, you want a tractor. And this is a tractor site, so of course, we are going to encourage you to get one. I'm seeing some tricky areas, of slope and open rock, that someone with little experience should not tackle. But pros, with the right equipment could make short work of, and then you are good to go as having defensible spaces, to immediately enjoy and build upon.
Sorry to be the contrarian here.
Edit,.... and what ever amount of fill dirt you think is enough.... double that, and know where it is coming from.

I agree with your observation. I work very hard to keep my space in nice condition- but also work 10 hours+/day during the week in an office. As a result, I’m faced with constant maintenance to keep up versus executing projects that I aspire to achieve. If that means I want a tractor, and don’t need one, you are right. My time is very valuable to me, I don’t mind spending it working outside in the evening nor weekends on it, it just feels inefficient. Does that make sense?

Either way, it’s a solid reminder to not rush a decision just because it’s on my mind. Thank you!

 

[airbiscuit]

After seeing pics of the property, I'll double down that you don't need a tractor. From what I can assess, you want a tractor. And this is a tractor site, so of course, we are going to encourage you to get one. I'm seeing some tricky areas, of slope and open rock, that someone with little experience should not tackle. But pros, with the right equipment could make short work of, and then you are good to go as having defensible spaces, to immediately enjoy and build upon.
Sorry to be the contrarian here.
Edit,.... and what ever amount of fill dirt you think is enough.... double that, and know where it is coming from.

I'll predict, that if you do get a tractor, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. You have plenty of area where it is safe to operate, and you can keep civilized. Of course, you won't be going up and down the steep slopes, but I don't see why you need to.
It's hard to overstate how many uses we have for a loader and a bucket. Who uses a wheelbarrow anymore?
I'll say it again, she will get a lot of work done with a tractor and loader, a rough cut mower and a rear blade. Not to mention the fun she (and her Dad) will have

 

[Yander]

.. and attach a snow plow or forks? C’mon, there’s a reason QA tractors are bought more, and bring higher resale, than pinned bucket tractors. Very few users want to be hammering pins out and back in every time they want to change attachments, and then fabricating their own attachment mounts to fit on some odd old pin arrangement no one uses anymore.

I’d guess if you can’t afford the machine you want, and this is the deciding factor, then you do what you have to do. Or if you absolutely know you won’t want to change FEL attachments, dedicated bucket-loader scenario, then go for it. But I’d never buy a pinned bucket machine, if my intent was to have it be a multi-purpose user, changing between different attachments at-will.

Maybe the people who have never owned both just don’t get it. I’ve owned both, and would never go back. Pinned buckets are obsolete tech for the single-tractor household, IMO.

Our larger tractor has SSQA so I know how it works.

You're comparing your old Yanmars to the new SA series Yanmars. No hammering of pins. No tools required.

Educate yourself on the new equipment and stop misinforming people.

My 8 year old grandson has removed the pins with no tools.

I have forks for my Yanmar. They make every front attachment you could want. As I said I can convert to SSQA and still be cheaper than a JD.

 

[ning]

I agree with your observation. I work very hard to keep my space in nice condition- but also work 10 hours+/day during the week in an office. As a result, I’m faced with constant maintenance to keep up versus executing projects that I aspire to achieve. If that means I want a tractor, and don’t need one, you are right. My time is very valuable to me, I don’t mind spending it working outside in the evening nor weekends on it, it just feels inefficient. Does that make sense?

Either way, it’s a solid reminder to not rush a decision just because it’s on my mind. Thank you!

I don't *need* a tractor either.
All the maintenance I use my tractor for, I could easily find someone else willing to do it.
It would cost a lot of money, though; over the last seven years, likely close to what I've paid for my tractor.
I think I'm coming out ahead, and doing this work gives me great personal satisfaction.

 

[California]

FWIW I've never had a need to take the loader off either of my old Yanmars.

One is a semi-permanent mount. The other comes off complete, easily. But I've only taken it off to see how that works.

I use clamp-on forks occasionally on the front bucket of either tractor, but less than once a year.

3-point forks for the back, in contrast, are used frequently.

Fattylumpkins, maybe these photos are typical of how you would use forks.

1) Typical rear forks use, apple harvest time.

2) I built this rear forks assembly (blue) from scrap on hand. Here I'm fetching an implement, an old back blade, to take it to my shop. (I modified the back blade to fit on the quick hitch). Using the blue forks was faster than mounting the implement temporarily just to transport it. Just pick it up and go.

 

[DK35vince]

Stick with Kubota or Yanmar. JD is over Priced for what you get unless you get an older model that was built 100% by Yanmar. Those are harder to find because people don't want to part with them.

I had one (John Deere 850).
Was it better built or more reliable than my current tractor = NO

 

[DK35vince]

.. and attach a snow plow or forks? C’mon, there’s a reason QA tractors are bought more, and bring higher resale, than pinned bucket tractors. Very few users want to be hammering pins out and back in every time they want to change attachments, and then fabricating their own attachment mounts to fit on some odd old pin arrangement no one uses anymore.

I’d guess if you can’t afford the machine you want, and this is the deciding factor, then you do what you have to do. Or if you absolutely know you won’t want to change FEL attachments, dedicated bucket-loader scenario, then go for it. But I’d never buy a pinned bucket machine, if my intent was to have it be a multi-purpose user, changing between different attachments at-will.

Maybe the people who have never owned both just don’t get it. I’ve owned both, and would never go back. Pinned buckets are obsolete tech for the single-tractor household, IMO.

I added hydraulics and hydraulic cylinder to my SSQA.
I can change from bucket to forks to stump bucket, Etc. and never leave my seat. Its great.
I do have to leave the seat for my snowplow to hook up the hydraulic lines to the snowplow. (takes about 1 minute)

 

[tacticalturnip]

@Yander doesn't the SA series have it's own proprietary Quick Attach system?

I wouldn't consider that pin-on.

I've got to say, for these smaller machines John Deere's quick-attach is my favorite.

 

[Runner]

@Yander doesn't the SA series have it's own proprietary Quick Attach system?

I wouldn't consider that pin-on.

I've got to say, for these smaller machines John Deere's quick-attach is my favorite.

Me just being lazy old me, I would like it if there was some way for the pins on the JD hook and pin setup to automatically latch itself so I wouldn't have to drag my butt out of the seat when hooking up to bucket, forks, etc. I know it wouldn't be too hard to design such a connector, and even make it so you could set it up to either lock or not, depending on how you have it configured.