Questions On Switching To Rotella Synthetic

[Docsknotinn]

Even though I am a fan of Mobil one you will find a dissclaimer on their web site that indicates little or no benefit to synthetic oil if you follow the proper change intervals. I do both but I sure wouldn't want to bet any $ that my engine will run better or longer than some one elses who properly maintains with conventional oil. Dave

 

[pruntyc]

Dave you agreeing with me, have you checked to see if you might be running a little fever, or coming down with something?? I'm starting to worry about you now. You just don't do that very ofter. lol /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RichNJKubota]

I have alot of experience rebuilding Citroen auto engines. Have been doing this for about 20 years. I can tell the difference between an engine that has run regular oil or synthetic. Since there aren't many of these cars in the US I know the history of a car before I get it. There is much less wear on engines that ran synthetic compared to conventional. Most of the wear I see on engines running conventional oil is in the valve train - cam lobes, lifters, rockers, rocker shafts. Wear on the pistons and liners is about the same for both types of oil. Wear on the crankshaft is only a tiny bit more for conventional oils (not enough to worry about).
I have also noticed that Castrol Syntec wears the engine about the same as conventional oils. The best oils seem to be Mobil 1, Red Line and Amsoil. There are a few other syn oils out there but have no long term experience with them.
The transmissions also last longer on synthetic oils - both automatic and manual. Since I don't rebuild the transmissions, I can't give details. The auto boxes are made by ZF in Germany and are also used in German cars. Very durable but they do prefer Amsoil ATF. Manual trans really like the RedLine oils.
I've never had oil samples tested to see what's in the oil and therefore what's wearing.
That's my 2 cents.
Do you think I use synthetic engine and trans oils in my Kubota? - You bet.

Rich

 

[Docsknotinn]

Dick, I just thought I might throw a curve ball out there to see if you were awake ! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Dave

 

[pruntyc]

I don't know about your experience with them. Because you had to rebuild them both, regular or synthetic. Now there is lot of difference in the way people drive to, so I don't feel that is a real test. Someone else might not have the same results as you say you have, they might get cars that were driven differently or had other conditions that might change the results. In other words not a very scientific study of the wear difference. Just what you think from what you ran into.

 

[TresCrows]

Rich, I know also and I know that you are correct. On TBN all tractors are equal and all oil is oil is oil. J

 

[RichNJKubota]

Yes, I know there are many factors that contribute to engine wear. Only one of them is the type of oil. The way the car is driven is a bigger factor then the oil, in my opinion. And there may be no correlation at all between these particular car engines and the engine in my Kubota. Sure, there are no guarantees but from what I've seen synthetic gives you that extra bit of protection from wear.
It can make the difference between junking the car and keeping it going. Over the life of a car it may cost you an addtional $600 for synthetic. A full rebuild is about $5k. When the engine has a problem and the car is only worth $3k are you going to spend $5k? Or do you think using synthetic to get that extra 100k miles would have been worth it?
Not science but just my opinions.
Rich

 

[pruntyc]

Well, I know a much cheaper way to protect the tractors, and that is. I was thinking about it and came to this conclusion. I have a 4 cyl Camry, and if I drive it at about 55 miles per hour, it will be running at about 2200 RPMs. Which is probably close to the rpms most run their tractors at. So we will change that to 50 miles per to make it easier. In 10 hours it will be in the area of 500 miles, so in 100 hours about 5,000 miles. What I'm getting at, is most say change the regular oil at 100 hours, so that is like driveing you car 5,000 miles on a oil change. So if you are using your tractor enough to worry about wearing it out, then change your oil at 50 hours, which would be like changeing at 2,500 to 3,000 miles like a lot of people do with their cars. I personally change my regular oil in my cars and trucks at 5,000. Never had a motor problem, or needed any motor work so I'm happy with that. Of course I generally trade them in before they have 200k on them so don't know if the next person has a problem or not. By the time they are that old everything is getting old on them and I want new. I guess if I were to drive 50k miles a year per car, then I would keep them longer. But I don't and have 2 cars and a pickup, so they get old.

 

[shady1701]

So they've been on synthetic oil for 20yrs? I've not seen any difference in the way an engine wears some newer oils from castrol and chevron are beating the PAO oils and other expensive oils yet cost less than $2 a qt. Please explain that.

 

[shady1701]

My vw diesel engines and most euro and other non-american oil bribed motor cars say 7500 -15K . Most american cars are at 3000 yet are capable of 10K mile drain intervals no problem with proper stuff.