Quick hitch for a 3 point hole digger

[travlitt]

I was wondering if a person could some how set up a 3 point hole digger with a 3 point quick hitch. I would like to try and see if it would work.
Has any member done this before? Or is it even possible.

 

[BukitCase]

I wouldn't think you could get enough range on any 3point I've seen - all the augers I've seen you REMOVE the toplink and mount the upper arm of the auger direct to the tractor's upper solid mount - this means that, if the 3ph raises a foot the auger raises at least 3 feet.

Not to say you might not figure out a way, I just don't know what it'd be... Steve

 

[SSdoxie]

It can be made to work if you have hydraulic top link to enable adjusting for the lost motion.
Here thread when I did it. http://http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/206452-post-hole-digger-quick-hitch.html?highlight=

 

[travlitt]

I may be missing something with SSdoxie's 3 point hole digger conversion to a quick hitch. It looks like you would have to be on the ground to hook up the top part of the quick hitch. How would you do this if it had the gear box and auger already attached to the boom?

 

[SSdoxie]

I may be missing something with SSdoxie's 3 point hole digger conversion to a quick hitch. It looks like you would have to be on the ground to hook up the top part of the quick hitch. How would you do this if it had the gear box and auger already attached to the boom?

When not in use the PHD hangs on a cradle with auger off the ground. I just back in close, then drop the lower pins into bottom QH hooks then use the hydraulic top link to position the top hook, slide the 3/4" pin in the top hook then the 1/2" bolt goes in just above it. It could use a little more fine tuning but works OK for now. I like digging with it because there isn't quite as much fore and aft arc movement to the auger now. When drilling a hole, I start with 3pt position control all the way up and use top link to lower auger to the ground then dig using only the 3pt control. Lifting out of the hole is just opposite, 3 pt fully raised the retract top link. It now raises higher and can dig deeper than original boom connection.

 

[travlitt]

When not in use the PHD hangs on a cradle with auger off the ground. I just back in close, then drop the lower pins into bottom QH hooks then use the hydraulic top link to position the top hook, slide the 3/4" pin in the top hook then the 1/2" bolt goes in just above it. It could use a little more fine tuning but works OK for now. I like digging with it because there isn't quite as much fore and aft arc movement to the auger now. When drilling a hole, I start with 3pt position control all the way up and use top link to lower auger to the ground then dig using only the 3pt control. Lifting out of the hole is just opposite, 3 pt fully raised the retract top link. It now raises higher and can dig deeper than original boom connection.

Thanks for the clarification on how you hook it up.
I plan too continue with my project.
I have a different idea in the way mine will work when hooking it up.
I will post pictures as I progress with the build.

 

[SSdoxie]

Keep us posted. Always looking for ideas to improve.

 

[travlitt]

Keep us posted. Always looking for ideas to improve.

Will do Mr. Dennis

 

[Fallon]

Thinking about trying this. My PHD should raise an extra inch or w so it doesn't drag. I have the QH & TnT so this would be a lot easier to hitch as well. I wouldn't have expected to be able to get the proper lift with the QH installed, but if others are getting the range combining 3pt lift & TnT, that sounds great.

I actually found a spare PHD boom identical to mine on Craigslist for $20. Picked it up a while back to make a 3pt boom for my chain harrow or as a spare anyway.

 

[travlitt]

Back in the summer I had bought an old complete 3 point hole digger with this idea of converting it to the quick hitch set up.
Here are some pictures of my 3 point hole digger conversion to a quick hitch hook up.

I started with the modification of the yoke.


First step is to move the lower pins forward 4"
This step will allow me to move the top connection forward so the top hook will clear the yoke and allow for a true quick hitch connection.


Top connection



Yoke sitting on Quick hitch






All of the connection points on this modified yoke match the measurements on my BB and Brush hog

 

[zoedog2012]

How are you going to fasten the beam to the yoke?

 

[Fallon]

Definitely going to try this. Picked up a plasma cutter with my Christmas bonus for several projects already. I figure worst case my spare PHD gets turned into the lift boom for my chain harrow. Best case it works for the PHD too.

With this design if you lock your 3pt rate of descent knob you'll end up being able to use your toplink as down pressure too. Chance of breaking things that way I suppose, but if you can build it, you can fix it.

 

[travlitt]

How are you going to fasten the beam to the yoke?

Weld it
That will be the next step after I determine the exact length I need to cut the boom.
I will probably add a brace on both sides of the boom back to the original lower pin holes.

 

[travlitt]

Definitely going to try this. Picked up a plasma cutter with my Christmas bonus for several projects already. I figure worst case my spare PHD gets turned into the lift boom for my chain harrow. Best case it works for the PHD too.

With this design if you lock your 3pt rate of descent knob you'll end up being able to use your toplink as down pressure too. Chance of breaking things that way I suppose, but if you can build it, you can fix it.

I am aware of the down pressure possibility

 

[travlitt]

As pointed out by Mr. Fallon I am aware of the possibility of having the benefit of down pressure on this modification.
I will include pictures of the way this will be accomplished.
Now back to my project.
Travis

 

[travlitt]

More progress on my project.

View attachment 402548

Can put the tip of the boom on the floor.
View attachment 402549

Tip of boom 6' above the floor.
View attachment 402550
View attachment 402550

That gives me the full range of the boom.

 

[SSdoxie]

More progress on my project.

View attachment 402548

Can put the tip of the boom on the floor.
View attachment 402549

Tip of boom 6' above the floor.
View attachment 402550
View attachment 402550

That gives me the full range of the boom.

Your photo attachments aren't showing, try reposting. I like what I see in the first set.

 

[travlitt]

Your photo attachments aren't showing, try reposting. I like what I see in the first set.

I just clicked on one of the attachment and it opened just fine.
1st.

2nd

3rd

4th

 

[SSdoxie]

I like that. Much cleaner looking than mine. Now that I have welder capable of the task it's time to redo mine. I will offer 1 suggestion tho. Think about a brace from top pin back to boom somewhere close to 1 of the pin holes the arc used to lift from. The boom was designed for the lift pressure to be back there, I'm thinking just the weld at the arc might let the boom start bowing more.

 

[travlitt]

I like that. Much cleaner looking than mine. Now that I have welder capable of the task it's time to redo mine. I will offer 1 suggestion tho. Think about a brace from top pin back to boom somewhere close to 1 of the pin holes the arc used to lift from. The boom was designed for the lift pressure to be back there, I'm thinking just the weld at the arc might let the boom start bowing more.

Dennis,
I plan on installing a brace but not on the top of the boom. I don't think it would be enough height at the top pin to do be much help..
There will be 2 braces,one on each side of the boom, They will run from the original lower pin holes up to the boom about where the curve is. This will enforce the boom and remove all of the side-to-side movement.
I will also add a triangle brace from the top pin bracket back to the boom, about 6 or 8".
What do you think of this location?
Next I will have to design a way to use the hydraulic top link to apply down force to the auger.
Thanks
Travis