R4's are USELESS!

   / R4's are USELESS! #101  
It seems like a common thread through these problems is the excess weight on the tph. If you have front wheel assist, the rear weight is far less important for traction(not say balance, but traction) purposes, and putting that much weight way back is probably getting the tractor out of balance. On inclines, you are probably over the hump of diminishing returns, and actually hindering traction(the extra weight is hindering movement more than providing extra traction). The bar loading, in part, comes from compression of the mud, which is worsened by the excess weight.

Just my thoughts, as I have not had this problem. (I don't even have filled tires). My TC45 essentially floats over the surface. I have to put it in full time fwd when I do FEL work with heavy dirt, though, as the back end loses power.

Chris
 
   / R4's are USELESS!
  • Thread Starter
#102  
Ok, now I'm baffled here.........I just went back and looked at my measurements and I measured that mine has 26 1/4 inside of the 3pt arms when they're raised, and yours shows 27 1/2........YET yours look like they have more clearance than mine do. How the heck can my arms be narrower, yet I have less tire/arm clearance?

I wonder if they changed tire sizes or something?
Mines a 2007 model........

Rear tire sizes are 14-17.5

I'm baffled, because your pics clearly show that you have more clearance than mine, but mine measure out to be set narrower.

Is there another way to adjust these 3 pt arms or something I'm missing?

If I don't have my ballast box 100% centered, I can hear the tires "squeaking" as they are rubbing on the 3 pt arms lightely. :eek: :mad:
 
   / R4's are USELESS! #103  
ding2520 said:
Deadman, I installed a "cold shut" in my new chains and put them on the tractor, decided to install a second one in each side to tighten them even more.

Hi: It is a great idea to make sure that you chains fit tightly but you still need chain tighteners:
Chain Tightener
Marshall
 
   / R4's are USELESS! #104  
Deadman said:
Ok, now I'm baffled here.........I just went back and looked at my measurements and I measured that mine has 26 1/4 inside of the 3pt arms when they're raised, and yours shows 27 1/2........YET yours look like they have more clearance than mine do. How the heck can my arms be narrower, yet I have less tire/arm clearance?

I wonder if they changed tire sizes or something?
Mines a 2007 model........

Rear tire sizes are 14-17.5

I'm baffled, because your pics clearly show that you have more clearance than mine, but mine measure out to be set narrower.

Is there another way to adjust these 3 pt arms or something I'm missing?

If I don't have my ballast box 100% centered, I can hear the tires "squeaking" as they are rubbing on the 3 pt arms lightely. :eek: :mad:

Are your rims inside out?
 
   / R4's are USELESS! #105  
dynasim said:
I have to put it in full time fwd when I do FEL work with heavy dirt, though, as the back end loses power.

Chris
Hi Chris: If your rear wheels are slipping more than 15% when you use your FEL that means that you have almost all the weight transfered to the front axle. Look at your users manual and see how much weight your front axle can take. I am sure that it wasn't meant for that much weight. Also almost all your stability comes from the rear axle. Your front axle can pivot and allow the tractor to roll over when your tractor is balanced on the front axle. To transfer weight from your front axle to your rear wheels you must put weight behind the rear wheels. Loading the tires or adding weight to the rear tires only adds weight to the rear tires it does not transfer weight off the front. Think of a teter-toter. If you put weight on the pivot nothing is changed on the seats. If you put equal weight on the seats the teter-toter will balance. In this case the rear axle is the pivot point but we want about 45-50% of the weight to remain on the front axle.
John Deere Ballast Handout Scan I hope this scan is readable.
Marshall
 

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   / R4's are USELESS! #106  
Deadman,
Same tire size (14-17.5) as my 06 model. I measured the offset on my rims on Saturday. I laid a straight edge across the tire and measured 7 1/4" to the surface that the bolts that hold the wheel to the tractor bottom out on. Only other thing is maybe they changed the shape of the arms.
 
   / R4's are USELESS! #107  
Deadman:
If your R4 rims are turned to the widest setting the valve stem will on the inside of the wheel. Just move the tires from the right side to the left and vise-versa to change the width. If you just flip them over and leave them on the same side the bar tread will go the wrong way and the tread will not self clean.
Marshall
 
   / R4's are USELESS!
  • Thread Starter
#108  
Ok great info guys, I'll go look at the tractor some more tomorrow and post back. I was up there looking today, and Its so hard to tell if there would be a width gain if we reversed the wheels. It almost looks like the're centered on there. I might just swap sides on them tomorrow and see if it gains or loses. Looks like I might gain 1/4 inch or a little more. that'd be almost enough.
 
   / R4's are USELESS! #109  
Based on the things I have read on this thread, I will really have to think hard on which tire to pick. The land is sandy, red clay and mostly flat. I assumed ag tires would be an automatic choice for me until I read R4s were better for thorns. The land is covered with mesquites. Their thorns are very long and sharp. So then I figured R4s would be the automatic choice. Then I read about the issues people have with R4s not digging in.

My hope is with a utility tractor in the 50-70 HP range, filled R4s would have sufficient bite.

Anybody here using a tractor in a mesquite infested environment? What tires are you using and how are they holding up to the thorns?
 
   / R4's are USELESS! #110  
i absolutely love my R4s on my 2320. I use it in mud, plow snow all winter and mow my lawn on them. Never once have i had a traction issue or ripped up grass due to sharp turns, to me, i am extrmemly glad i went with them.
 

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