R4's are USELESS!

[JMP1320]

I have turf tires on my 1320 and they work excellent in most conditions. They are loaded which makes them 500 lbs each i believe. I have used a JD 4200 with R4s to push snow banks back, i was not impressed at all. The tire tread is too flat and just flattens the snow. I do agree with the fact that the tires are a compromise between the R1s and Turf tires. They are a good tire for certain aplications.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have turf tires on my 1320 and they work excellent in most conditions. They are loaded which makes them 500 lbs each i believe. I have used a JD 4200 with R4s to push snow banks back, i was not impressed at all. The tire tread is too flat and just flattens the snow. I do agree with the fact that the tires are a compromise between the R1s and Turf tires. They are a good tire for certain aplications.

That would be applications where you dont spin - or if you do it isnt sticky enuf to load the tread. Otherwise add chains to get the same traction. Ties up a large amt of money for a little xtra load carry capability, xtra hassle, no width adjustability. If youre constantly running over bricks, cinderblocks, and dry hardpack they are good - but only from the standpoint of ruggedness. Never traction.
larry

 

[RalphVa]

Deadman,

Are you SURE that you're in 4wd?

Another alternative to chains is to put metal screws into the lugs, for work on ice. Probably won't help much in slick snow though. If you're trying to push much uphill in slick snow or ice, chains help a whole lot. Otherwise, chains or R1s or R4s will likely provide LESS traction because they simply have less rubber on the ground than bar or turf type tires have. This is what I found in running R1s, chains or turfs on my Gravely tractor. Turfs provided more traction up to the break point. However, the "break" (spin) point in slick or mud conditions will be lower with turf type, and they'll become like a little slick ball once they start slipping. R1s or chains are fine until they start digging, then they simply dig you in deeper. They'll provide more traction before that slip point in slick conditions but less in reasonably dry conditions.

I'm happy with the bar type turfs on my 4010 EXCEPT in mud. They've worked great for pushing snow and sleet. I don't push snow and sleet much up steep hills; slight hill outside my driveway was fine in sleet. About equal to the Gravely with chains on the single turfs but much better than it with either dual (2 on each side) turfs or R1s with metal screws in the lugs.

Ralph

 

[Ford850]

Check with your dealer right away if you just bought it. They will more than likely help you out. You'll need new rims and tires for all 4 wheels, and the dealer might be able to swap yours for something they have on the lot. If not ask them to check other dealer for a swap. Since the R1's cost less, the swap might be close to even.

 

[Deadman]

I've got around 1,2000 LBS in the Ballast boox, so thats not the problem. Its just that the R4's don't bit in at all, they just ride over the top and spin on anything thats at all slippery. They even look like a non-aggressive tire, because they have so much surface area.
I'll contact the dealer soon.
Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Hard]

I've got around 1,2000 LBS in the Ballast boox, so thats not the problem. Its just that the R4's don't bit in at all, they just ride over the top and spin on anything thats at all slippery. They even look like a non-aggressive tire, because they have so much surface area.
I'll contact the dealer soon.
Thanks for the suggestion.

chains Deadman...chains...go get some...they're your ticket R4 utopia...

 

[Deadman]

I just absolutely FEAR chains, because I saw my buddy throw a chain off of an ATV and it trashed the Plastics, brakes, and anything it hit. I know the tractor is slower, but I just hate the though of a chain hooking something and ripping the heck out of the nice tractor. That and I really hate even installing chains. Its just a pain to install then really staright and tight......anyone can just throw them on and have them flop around. I guess I should just get the R1's and go from there because the R1's on the 2210 were MEAN tires. They dug into anything and never filled with mud.
All the mowing I plan on doing is kinda rough cutting, so if they do leave a small print OH WELL. Is it realistic to just change the rear tires to bar tires, or is that going to throw off the Transmission ration because of a slight height change?
thanks guys!

 

[Ford850]

I checked into R4's for the front and R1's for the rear. Due to the diameter difference it would bind drivetrain.

 

[Deadman]

Is that on the 2520 tire sizes, or a different size?

 

[m7040]

Originally purchased the M7040 with R4s but quickly realized the limitations in traction when doing FEL work. Went back to the dealer and he changed them out with a set of R1s from another machine. Now also realized that I should have gotten the cast iron wheel centers so the dealer has agreed to swap them put as well for a small fee. In the mean time I have built a 2000 lbs ballast box for the rear that together with the filled tires has worked out very well. Virtually no slipage when digging with the FEL. As someone pointed out the front R1 front tires will not carry as much load as the R4s so having a ballast box really helps to off load them a bit. If you plan to use the FEL for agressive digging you need R1s and all the ballast you can get. Good luck