Ready to purchase but still not sure

[Boondox]

Maybe I got a killer deal, but my hydraulic outlets cost less than a third of the price you quoted...

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com

 

[HR_Mutt]

SmokyMtnMan
That sure is a nice looking land/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
regards
Mutt

 

[Bird]

SmokeyMtnMan, I may disagree with some other folks, but I'd say to get the biggest tractor (L4610 preferably) with the cab, if you can afford it; protection from weather, limbs, insects, and blowing dust and debris. I don't think you'll ever regret getting it, but you sure might regret not getting it. And get all the remotes that are available; you'll find a use for them.

Bird

 

[MarkV]

SmokyMtnMan,

First let me say that your property is wonderful and it sounds like you Grandmother was also. I know when I was looking at tractors for the first time many of the terms were very foreign. TonyC gave you many of the answers to your questions, so I’ll just add some examples of how they are often used.

Remote hydraulics can do many things. If you use a rear blade to maintain your road, one with a hydraulic cylinder can be angled from the tractor seat with one of your remote hydraulic levers. This would let you pull gravel from the edge and dump it in the middle of the road or straighten the blade and you could spread it more evenly. A landscape rake can be worked the same way. I use a remote hydraulic outlet to run a log splitter, but I do not do it from the tractor seat.

T&T or Top and Tilt, Tony explained pretty well. If we were using the same rear blade to maintain the road, one of the levers would extend the hydraulic cylinder on your top link. This would tilt the blade back making it cut in more aggressively. Another lever would extend the side link, which would drop one side of the blade to cut more aggressively on that side.

I think you may be mixing up “Draft Control” with “Position Control". Draft control is more often used on larger tractors for plowing. Position control is what we have on most of the compact tractors. As you know, the position control lever raises and lowers the 3pt hitch. It also lets you pick a point, normally on a number scale, which will not let the 3pt go any lower. If you were using a tiller, and did not want it to go any deeper than 2” you set the position control, at lets say 5, it will not go any lower. When you reach the end of a pass you lift your 3pt, turn around and reset your position control on 5, you will be tilling at the same depth.

It sounds like you have been using a tractor on the property and I am wondering, after looking at the photos, how often you find yourself on side slopes. A cab has a fair amount of weight so it will raise the center of gravity on the tractor. This could be an issue on steep grades.

Good luck in your search and if you ask enough questions, someone here will make sense eventually. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

MarkV

 

[cowboydoc]

I agree with Bird. I also might add that for what you want to do and wanting a cab and all I would seriously consider getting a utility rather than a compact utility tractor. You will be much better off on those hills and have enough tractor, for about the same money as a compact, to do whatever you wanted to do.

 

[JJT]

I faced the same dilemna 2+ years ago, couldn't make my mind up 3710 or 4310. I drove them both and couldn't tell the difference. I ended up with the 3710 HST because it was instock at the dealer that was the most helpful. I could have waited 2 weeks, he had a 4310 in the pipeline, but he recommended I keep the $2,500 difference. 250+ hours later - no regrets.

 

[SmokyMtnMan]

Good evening folks. I just wanted to express to all of you how amazed and appreciative I am of all the advice and knowledge you guys have shared concerning my upcoming tractor purchase. A lot of forums, chat rooms, etc seem to always have a least one or two who seems to be a 'know-it-all" and talks down to people who dont' have their experience and expertise. All messages here have been nothing but helpful and show genuine concern.
I just wanted to report tonight on one of the reasons i'm looking for some help and advice this way instead of going to dealers here..AND probably not even considering purchase from a local dealer.
I have two dealers withing 35 miles of me here in western NC. One of those dealers I have had service performed on my L2250...and I was overcharged rather severely on a front axle repair...found out later after too late being a rookie tractor owner...also was quoted a price of $92 for a drawbar from same dealer ...and charged $26 for a gearshift knob. ..also talked to me like I was a dog....so that dealer of course wont' get this sale...the other local dealer a little farther away I visited today...I had asked about prices for same tractors i have mentioned in this forum. His pirce was somewhat higher that some of the advertised website firms we know of on here, but not really that much higher....but what got me about him was this quote..
"We don't put Kubota loaders on tractors we sell...we prefer putting our own loaders on from another company..Kubota loaders are always giving problems and we got tired of fooling with them"
any of you had this type of experience?

second comment that got me was this one
"What is a tiltmeter? anyway...you dont' need that...and why would you want a toothbar? that's just a waste of money.....let me sell you this 4n1 bucket and you wont' have to worry about that?
so, what do you guys think?

i mean..I appreciate someone giving me advice and i'm sure when i walk in a dealer, they know pretty quickly that i'm not an experienced tractor owner...but doesnt' this sound more like telling me what i want to buy instead of actually being helpful? let me know...thanks

 

[frank_f15]

very nice looking peice of land. would suggest u get the biggest tractor u can afford, and get all the toys on it u want and can afford. some times even a good dealer is a pita(pain in the ass) they will try to sell what they have in stock. as far as toothbar, i have a detachable one for my 2400 and don't use it that often, but when i need it, it makes a lot of difference when digging into hard dirt or clearing brush.

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Gee's Smokey, sounds like a rock and a hard place. one guys a cheat and the others a liar. Is this a reflection of the whole dealership or just an individual salesman? If these two foul balls are your only options, I be talking to Carver.
Al

 

[radman]

SmokeyMtnMan:
Some dealers will steer you toward different FEL, attachments etc. Why? because they often sell many of brand "X" and therefore can get better pricing from the company and brand "X" may have a bigger profit margin. I know of one Kubota dealer who almost exclusively sells Woods loaders with all of his tractors. Not saying Woods is a bad loader, but a Woods FEL is cheaper than kubota and he may have a greater profit margin. In addition, if he sells so many $ of Woods products he gets better price breaks on other pieces of Woods equipment. There are a lot more Woods boxblades, mowers, rakes etc than similar Kubota products and the Woods products are again cheaper. If he won't sell you a Kubota loader, someone else will. Kubota makes a good FEL but then again many aftermarkets loaders are also good.
He may also want you to buy brand "X" because he has many sitting on the lot.