Really Weird Tire Losing Air Issue

Farmwithjunk · Jan 29, 2007

RWEST said:
Holy mackerel!! Kinda' reminds me of the time I poked that hornet's nest with a stick when I was a kid.

Just got back after a weekend of dealing with winter (I guess that mild December and first 2/3 of January were just to soften us up, phew!!) and this is my first chance to review the posts.
1. If memory serves, the dealer said they fill the tires with windshield washer fluid.
2. It's a tubeless tire.
3. The fluid leakage is definitely around the stem. Is WW fluid corrosive? I imagine those wheels are pretty dear.
4. The tires are inflated to 25psi +/-.

Obviously, since I discovered the problem, I make certain the stem is "up", so I don't have to deal with the flat; as a result, I really haven't let the tire sit in the "leak" position since then to monitor it. I'll just keep making sure it's "up" until winter's done, then post what we found.

Thanks to all.

Windshield washer fluid is non corrosive. No more than ordinary water anyway. That's its claim to fame. Besides not freezing in all but the harshest temperatures, it doesn't start eating away at metal like ca cl. There is some environmental questions regarding ww fluid. (methyl alcohol) I use it in tires on the tractor I bush hog with. (LOTS of flats) I've never noticed any plant kill from ww fluid. Ca cl will nuke grass.

You mention the leak being around the stem. Are we talking all the way to the base of the stem? If so, does your stem have a lock nut and washer holding it in place? If so, try GENTLEY tightening that nut. Sometimes jsy a slight turn can seal them.

All my tractors are 2wd. Not sure what that translates to on a 4wd, but I run 10 to 12 psi in my rear tires. (30 to 35 in fronts)

Soundguy · Jan 30, 2007

One more on rim protection.

I think i saw it mentioned here about rims being galvanized. While I have seen a few galvanized ones( or regalvanized ones.. ).. I've seen plenty more cad plated rims ( and gas tanks ).

From what I've seen the plated rims or galv rims seems to hold up much better than painted rims to corrosion. Anyone else using plated or coated rims vs painted ones? ( I see lots of oldies with plated.. ) Most new tractors i see have painted rims.. any new production tractors using plated?

Soundguy

daTeacha · Jan 31, 2007

RWEST said:
3. The fluid leakage is definitely around the stem. Is WW fluid corrosive? I imagine those wheels are pretty dear.

Do you mean there is no fluid coming out of the valve, but rather between the valve and the rim? Different things have different names in different places. To me, the core is the center part of the valve, the stem is the part that sticks up from the rim, and it's a part of the valve body, which is everything except the core and cap. If it's leaking between the valve and the rim, it could be an incorrect or improperly installed valve, maybe one designed for a rim made of thinner or thicker steel than what you have.

It's still weird that fluid leaks out and air doesn't. Maybe the volume is so small it doesn't affect the pressure to a measureable extent when it's only air that leaks. It's been a long time since your first post. Did you check the pressure after finding signs of a fluid leak?

RWEST · Jan 31, 2007

It's been a long time since your first post.

Actually, the problem showed up some time ago (months). I've been meaning to "get around to fixing it", but, with the million +1 things to do that have kept me from it, I just make sure I park it with the stem up.

The tires have been on the wheels since I got the tractor in '02, but, the problem just appeared in October or so of last year. Come spring, I promise I'll get it off there and see what's what.

SPYDERLK · Jan 31, 2007

RWEST said:
Actually, the problem showed up some time ago (months). I've been meaning to "get around to fixing it", but, with the million +1 things to do that have kept me from it, I just make sure I park it with the stem up.
The tires have been on the wheels since I got the tractor in '02, but, the problem just appeared in October or so of last year. Come spring, I promise I'll get it off there and see what's what.

Distortion of the rimhole combined with rust or cracks? Slightly lower pressure on valve when at the top?
Farfetched but all I can think of that fits what youve said.
Larry

Egon · Feb 1, 2007

Take the cap off of the stem. and spray the stem with a mixture of dish washing soap and water. Bubbles should form at the leak. There are also commercial products just for this purpose. Some people just spit on the area and rub it around.

I am guessing the entire valve core will have to be replaced. You may be able to do this without removing the tire but not sure??

Jim_Fisher · Feb 3, 2007

Egon said:
Take the cap off of the stem. and spray the stem with a mixture of dish washing soap and water. Bubbles should form at the leak. There are also commercial products just for this purpose. Some people just spit on the area and rub it around.

I am guessing the entire valve core will have to be replaced. You may be able to do this without removing the tire but not sure??

When I attempted to check the rear tire pressure on my John Deere 3010 last weekend, the valve core on one of the tires pretty much disintegrated. I replaced the valve inserts on both rear tires.

Jacked the rear of the tractor up, one side at a time. Rotated the tire until the valve was at 12 o'clock, screwed out the old insert and screwed the new one in. Added air to the proper pressure (14 psi) and lowered the tractor.

I might have been able to get away with just changing the valve core, but for about a dollar, it didn't seem to be worth the effort to try to dig the remains of the old core out of the valve insert.

Egon · Feb 3, 2007

Maybe explain with a little more detail on how you switched out the valve core Jim. I've never done it and am interested.

Thanks.

Jim_Fisher · Feb 3, 2007

Egon said:
Maybe explain with a little more detail on how you switched out the valve core Jim. I've never done it and am interested.

Thanks.

Most rear ag tractors have a tire valve with a replaceable core housing that contains the valve core. The valve stem of the tube (or tubeless valve) has a larger inside diameter than an automotive valve in order to allow liquid ballast to be added efficiently.

The inside of the valve stem is threaded and has a seat machined in it. The core housing threads into the valve stem and has a rubber seal attached to the end which contacts the seat and provides a seal. Inside the core housing is a standard automotive type valve core.

Here is a link to an illustration of the core housing - item 17-587.

patchboy: TR #CH-3, Core Housing for TR #218A & TR #618A, 1 Piece

To check or adjust the air pressure on a liquid ballasted tire I ordinarily roll the wheel until the valve is at the 12 o'clock position. This assures that the valve is above the ballast. This can be done by simply moving the tractor. If the valve core or core housing is to be replaced, I jack the tractor up so that the weight of the tractor will not force air and liquid ballast out of the tube while the valve stem is open. Unscrew the part that you intend to replace and screw the new part in.

It's a good idea to make sure that you have the right core housing before you remove the existing one. Older equipment used a tire valve that had external threads to hold the core housing and the two types are not interchangable.

I have had the misfortune to shear off the core housing on my compact tractor, which doesn't have liquid ballast. I now carry a spare in the toolbox.