Rear blade decision

[W8BYA]

I know I am really late to the party as I see you have already made a neat purchase. If it will help others I wanted to show what I did here. I have a nice simple rear blade that I can rotate around if need be and I have been using it for years to maintain a 1000' gravel/clay road. I would have to wait until after a real good soaking rain then get out there and make multiple passes to loosen up and free the gravel from the clay.

Then I found a nice length of I-beam, cut it in half and welded it to the back side of the blade. Even that extra 100 pounds made a noticeable difference but the real gem came when I drop in 6-8 forty pound rectangular weights inside the I-beam. With all that weight it makes grading the road a snap in a fraction of the time. Nice thing is I can add more or remove weights as needed. Below is a poor picture of the beam attached.

 

[Overtaxed]

LOL, yeah, I'm sure you're right. It's sad though, I really want to support the local guy, but man, the buying experience is just so much better online. I hate being "that guy" who's contributing to the death of local businesses, but why do you make it so hard? And of course the big loser here is Woods/Land Pride/etc. I can't be the only person having this problem; so, if you want to compete with EA and the other online sellers, put a "buy now and ship to local dealer" option on your website! I know exactly what I wanted, but making me try to catch the guy at the dealer, get his attention, get him to work me a price, explain the options to me... Just so much easier to go on the EA website, select the blade, call them if I have questions, add my options, click "buy now" and wait for delivery.

 

[oosik]

When I finally realized that my 565# Land Pride RB3596 just WAS NOT heavy enough for summer driveway maintenance - I spent around nine months researching on the internet. I'm very fortunate - there is a Rhino dealership just 14 miles away and they had the exact rear blade I had decided on. My Rhino 950 @ 96"/ 1100# makes summer driveway maintenance possible. After the spring rains my driveway dries out and becomes extremely hard - my very own mile of concrete.

BTW - that Bison looks like a good unit.

 

[Fallon]

If they wont sell you anything close to what you want, it's not your fault. The dealers are the ones splitting their own throats, not you.

I'm lucky with my local dealer I guess. They usually call or Email me back. They know I'm kicking tires at times, so are leisurely in replying at times or occasionally forget. They step up if I indicate its urgent at all.

 

[Overtaxed]

If they wont sell you anything close to what you want, it's not your fault. The dealers are the ones splitting their own throats, not you.

I'm lucky with my local dealer I guess. They usually call or Email me back. They know I'm kicking tires at times, so are leisurely in replying at times or occasionally forget. They step up if I indicate its urgent at all.

Yeah, I don't feel like it's my fault. But, at the same time, I do wonder, what will happen when they are all gone/absorbed into some conglomerate (hint, it's probably not gonna be good for us) and don't like being the person who's causing it to happen. There's a huge gap in e-mail, it seems that most of the dealers want to deal face/face or, at the least, by phone. I don't like either medium, I hate face/face, I can say things I don't mean, you can tell me things that aren't true and I can't research anything because you're sitting there right in front of me. I like phone better because as a dealer is telling me my options, I can look it up and see what they are talking about. And I love e-mail, send me a quote with a paragraph on "why this is the right blade for you" and you'd have my business. I bought my tractor basically by the criteria of "e-mail savvy". I went to a dealer, met them, drove the tractor and told them I'd e-mail with exactly what I want. I did, and they never got back to me. Followed it up with phone calls, still nothing. So, I went on to Kioti and asked them to find someone who could use a computer and wanted to sell a tractor. First guy who was responsive (and I'm using that term very loosely, in my world, "responsive" is a reply in minutes, in the tractor world, it's a reply within 24 hours) sold me the machine. Never met him before, showed up with the tractor on a flatbed and the paperwork. Nice and easy, just the way I like it.

The "ease of use" is just so much higher Internet vs in person even with a very well educated and responsive dealer. I can have 50 implements heading to me, having read reviews on all of them and done some comparison shopping before you've driven to the dealer sat down, and found someone who can discuss implements with a degree of authority. That the thing I wanted from my local dealer, and the value they could add. My soil is just like yours (local dealer), I'm trying to crown my trails and cut ditches with a 7000 lb tractor.. Is this the right blade? That's the question that an Internet guy can't answer because, they have no idea what my soil/terrain is like (well, except for EA, but that's only because they are 100 miles from me and we have the same conditions). So there's value in that, but it has to be coupled with someone who will return a phone call and knows something about the products that they are selling. I just can't seem to find that person (although, to be fair, the guy I have working on my Kioti right now seems really good; told him I was interested in a grapple, sent over some pics, prices and specs a few hours later.. So maybe I finally found "the guy" who I can work with).

 

[DieselBound]

When I was shopping for my box blade I contacted a local Case dealer about pricing. $5k. Everything Attachments sold the exact same one for something like $3,700. Although I've purchased many attachments from EA I decided to go elsewhere for a box blade: the one I got was a bit cheaper and a bit smaller; at 7' I figured I would be pushing the envelope. Even at 1,200 lbs my box blade has skipped on the ground! (you can really hear the effects of that weight grinding on the ground though)

 

[mpsmith60]

I have a 6'- EA "Deluxe 6 Way Scrape Blade".
I bought a 7'- KK blade first, and used it only once. The KK offset function is a bad joke.
The EA "extreme duty blade" you are considering, is essentially the same design as my Deluxe blade.
You need the heavier blade. I have 32HP, you have 60HP
I would HIGHLY recommend the EA extreme duty blade. The design is the most well thought out I have seen, and the welding is excellent.
Be prepared though: Most will agree that the EA paint quality stinks!
I did not think that it was possible to apply half a coat of paint,...but it is.

I am considering that same blade from EA. I currently have the equivalent landscape rake by them and love it! It's built like a tank and the paint job seems fine. To me, the offset option is a must for both a scraper blade and a landscape rake.

 

[Overtaxed]

I should have updated this thread, I have the Bison and really like it, here's a link to my thread where I show off a few pictures. It's a very nice piece of equipment, well built, and man, can it dig!!

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/406953-bison-nb80-240-review.html

 

[prof fate]

i got a box blade when i first got my tractor - it's great for many things.
then last fall I got a back blade (a used, cheap mahindra - 5' $150...used twice...can't pass that up).

WOW what I can do now.

For leveling - the box blade wins as it rides on the groud, picks up or drops off, like a belly scraper does.

the back blade will float as well, but dig in. If you set it say, just at dirt level, as the ttractor goes over uneven terrain the blad will dig (when tractor goes up) and leave the ground completely (when the tractor goes into a depression).

HOWEVER - it will dig, in 'reverse' it will spread - and best of all it can move dirt sideways - like you want to do with your driveway.

This is where I found it's value - I have a 200' gravel drive, and using the box blade I could remove the center hump but not much else. With the back blade I set the offset, angle and tilt and can pull the edges into the center of the driveway and get a nice crown and the potholes fill in and stay filled in. It fixed the driveway where using just hte box blade made things worse.

It's all manual - I did get a crank-tilt level for my kioti (a kioti item). not much value in top link adjustment like on a box blade, angle is a simple pin arranvement and turning the blade 180 degrees is must useful..not sure if hydraulics will do that.

 

[fried1765]

i got a box blade when i first got my tractor - it's great for many things.
then last fall I got a back blade (a used, cheap mahindra - 5' $150...used twice...can't pass that up).

WOW what I can do now.

For leveling - the box blade wins as it rides on the groud, picks up or drops off, like a belly scraper does.

the back blade will float as well, but dig in. If you set it say, just at dirt level, as the ttractor goes over uneven terrain the blad will dig (when tractor goes up) and leave the ground completely (when the tractor goes into a depression).

HOWEVER - it will dig, in 'reverse' it will spread - and best of all it can move dirt sideways - like you want to do with your driveway.

This is where I found it's value - I have a 200' gravel drive, and using the box blade I could remove the center hump but not much else. With the back blade I set the offset, angle and tilt and can pull the edges into the center of the driveway and get a nice crown and the potholes fill in and stay filled in. It fixed the driveway where using just hte box blade made things worse.

It's all manual - I did get a crank-tilt level for my kioti (a kioti item). not much value in top link adjustment like on a box blade, angle is a simple pin arranvement and turning the blade 180 degrees is must useful..not sure if hydraulics will do that.

You have discovered that a back blade is the PROPER implement for maintaining a crowned driveway.
Now,.... do yourself a BIG favor,...... upgrade $, to an Everything Attachments Deluxe Scrape Blade (angle/tilt/offset). It is a wonderful piece of equipment!

Absent a belly blade, a rear blade is the BEST tool for maintaining a driveway, and adding an extended gauge wheel will do the job even easier/better.
Of course some here will say...Oh NO!.... Don't do that... get a land plane.

To those folks I ask: How do you pull the migrating gravel back on the driveway, from the ditch edges, with a land plane?
When was the last time you saw a land plane used on a natural surface county roadway?
Graders, with belly blades, are the proper tools for natural surface roadway maintenance.

 

[Professor Marvel]

You have discovered that a back blade is the PROPER implement for maintaining a crowned driveway.
Now,.... do yourself a BIG favor,...... upgrade $, to an Everything Attachments Deluxe Scrape Blade (angle/tilt/offset). It is a wonderful piece of equipment!

Absent a belly blade, a rear blade is the BEST tool for maintaining a driveway, and adding an extended gauge wheel will do the job even easier/better.
Of course some here will say...Oh NO!.... Don't do that... get a land plane.

To those folks I ask: How do you pull the migrating gravel back on the driveway, from the ditch edges, with a land plane?
When was the last time you saw a land plane used on a natural surface county roadway?
Graders, with belly blades, are the proper tools for natural surface roadway maintenance.

Yep you picked the right equipment if you want to take a lot longer to the job. Also if you do not want to reclaim as much gravel. I have 2 rear blades, one has an offset blade, that i have not used since I bought my land plane about 8 years ago. I keep thinking I will need to use a back blade to bring in the sides but have not needed to yet.

 

[fried1765]

Yep you picked the right equipment if you want to take a lot longer to the job. Also if you do not want to reclaim as much gravel. I have 2 rear blades, one has an offset blade, that i have not used since I bought my land plane about 8 years ago. I keep thinking I will need to use a back blade to bring in the sides but have not needed to yet.

Absolutely correct!
I do not care how long it takes to do the job.
If I don't get it done today, I'll do it tomorrow, or the next day, or maybe next week.
I have been retired for nearly 19 years!
I want the BEST JOB possible.
"Haste makes waste."

 

[NHGunowner]

Great thread, glad you found one you like Overtaxed.
I'm looking for advice on a rear blade.
I have an L4760 hst rops. Loaded turfs. 3 rear remotes (2 float), and TnT.
In the neighborhood of 7k lbs operating weight, by my math.
Mostly going to use for snow, also some smoothing. My rear yard is a fairly wide open area, I drive back there and park trailers/camper. I rut it up if its wet.
I have some leveling to do, I'll be building a garage back there, plus I still have a messy site from a home addition/expansion years ago.
Soil back there is horrible rocky highway fill. Full of rock and asphalt.
After the site work is done, blade won't have too hard of a life, I'm thinking.
I would like to buy a blade with offset (tooless/swing boom) and angle. I'd like to buy all manual, with provisions for adding hydraulics later, if I want.
I don't know if I should be going 7 or 8 foot.
I am pretty interested in a blade like the EA extreme. I'm not sure hydro can be added.
Input would be appreciated, thanks!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Great thread, glad you found one you like Overtaxed.
I'm looking for advice on a rear blade.
I have an L4760 hst rops. Loaded turfs. 3 rear remotes (2 float), and TnT.
In the neighborhood of 7k lbs operating weight, by my math.
Mostly going to use for snow, also some smoothing. My rear yard is a fairly wide open area, I drive back there and park trailers/camper. I rut it up if its wet.
I have some leveling to do, I'll be building a garage back there, plus I still have a messy site from a home addition/expansion years ago.
Soil back there is horrible rocky highway fill. Full of rock and asphalt.
After the site work is done, blade won't have too hard of a life, I'm thinking.
I would like to buy a blade with offset (tooless/swing boom) and angle. I'd like to buy all manual, with provisions for adding hydraulics later, if I want.
I don't know if I should be going 7 or 8 foot.
I am pretty interested in a blade like the EA extreme. I'm not sure hydro can be added.
Input would be appreciated, thanks!

Highly recommend the Land Pride RBT3596 for your tractor. You can get it with all manual adjustments and can easily add hydraulics later. While the ETA blade is nice, the LP unit is a little nicer IMO.

Whatever blade you get, get skid shoes. They just make life easier.

Pretty much all the rear blades of this caliber are very good quality implements, some have features that are a little different than another, but they are all pretty nice.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[powerscol]

Brian is very correct. I have the RBT3584 (next smaller unit) It does everything I need and more. Definitely get the shoes - helps it not dig in. I have hyd tilt and blade swing and manual offset. In addition I have a hydraulic top link.It is one sweet monster. The weight is you friend. Neighbor could not get his lightweight blade to dig in to level his drive. I cam over and in 2 passes had it where he at least could do something. I also pulled the shoulders an 2 miles of the subdivision roads (gravel and asphalt millings). Was easy to to, especially being able to adjust on the fly.

 

[NHGunowner]

Take a look at the Woods RB96.60. Get the hydraulic angle and offset with manual ratchet tilt. Excellent blade! About $2200...money well spent

I priced out the Woods RB96.60 today, a local dealer quoted $3k for all manual, another $600 hydro angle. 4-6 weeks.
Seemed high.
I am waiting on quote for the LP RBT3596 from my dealer.
Messick's quoted 2900. Freight makes it a no deal tho.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I priced out the Woods RB96.60 today, a local dealer quoted $3k for all manual, another $600 hydro angle. 4-6 weeks.
Seemed high.
I am waiting on quote for the LP RBT3596 from my dealer.
Messick's quoted 2900. Freight makes it a no deal tho.

None of these type-quality of rear blades are cheap if purchased new. You are going to be around $3000 at best.

Good luck. You might want to look at used ones??? :confused3:

 

[Bigpuddie]

I have a Woods RB96.60 for sale. Like new condition. Located in southern Pa. $2400. It had hydraulic offset and angle, and manual tilt.

 

[NHGunowner]

I have a Woods RB96.60 for sale. Like new condition. Located in southern Pa. $2400. It had hydraulic offset and angle, and manual tilt. View attachment 639156View attachment 639157View attachment 639158

I would definitely be interested if we were closer geographically. I'm in New Hampshire.
I only thought the price on the Woods was high because of what I had found on tractorhouse. They were all midwest dealers but as much as $1000+ lower.
North of $3k it looks like the landshark from EA becomes a good value at $3039, with only and extra $100 per hydraulic function.
And a rake option.
Site says in stock

 

[NHGunowner]

A local quoted me $2900 on all manual Landpride RBT3596. 2-3 weeks. Unless something appears on the used market (there have been none local in the weeks I've looked) that is probably the way I go.