Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive way

[5030]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expansive way

Jerry:

You are nit picking.....

I said in my previous post, in a production environment, the part is CNC milled. In a one-off environment, it would be ground.

Either way, a rusty chunk of iron won't cut it.

Maybe I am being too particular. For me to make the block, first I would rough machine it and then it would be ground. Ground flat and parallel. The holes would be gaged, counter bored and relieved. The outlet pipes would be welded and die checked for leaks and the entire piece would be normalized.

When a part leaves my shop for a customer, whether a die repair or a machined part, there is always a liability lurking somewhere. My mind rests easier knowing it's made right and it will perform it's intended task without problems.

That's just the way I do things.

 

[L3710GV]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expansive way

BBell is right these top and tilt additions are a rip off, my Gearmore tnt kit cost $1200, the valve is a low end italian one , a prince valve is just as good ,as for the power tap off it is just made out of a mill finished 1" thick aluminum, drilled for the three holes counterdrilled for the o-rings and taped 1/2" pipe threads,no milling, all this can be done on drill press. The third hole is the power beyond port, All three of the holes MUST be used on these open center systems used on kubotas and many others, the pressure is needed downstream somewhere else,in this case the three point lift. If you look at the triangle block taken off you will see where the pressure port is connected to the power beyond port,returning pressure to the three point lift circut,the other hole is tank or return port. The hoses and fittings are not that expensive at Northern Hydraulics,and the top link cylinder is avaliable.the lower link tilt cylinder was a standard one with a U shaped band stock welded on one end.

 

[_RaT_]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expansive way

I would rather think of it as a expensive option that works very well. I like BBells ingenuity, it's great to see folks figuring this stuff out. If you go out and purchase a set of Gannon hydraulic cylinders with the appropriate ends, expect to pay about $500-$600 for the two. A decent 3 spool will be about $250 or more for a well built unit with virtually no leak down even after years of use. Throw in about $100 for the 6 quick connectors which is 12 pieces in total. In my case a homemade bracket that a machine shop or backyard mechanic could easily make for you if you can't at say $50. The many various hoses (at custom crimped/lengths instead of ones wich will in all likelyhood be too long), connection block and then the appropriate fittings and I'd say your pushing close to $1000. I had them install mine as well all for about $1300 or so. Could you do it cheaper, no question. Cheaper cylinders like Prince which now come with the right end but not necessarily the right open/close length. You can easily modify it, but it takes time which if someone does it for you, will indeed cost you something. The Prince spool's, less costly no doubt, It's a bit of a compromise in quality, but one most of us can easily live with. If you really want TnT but aren't perepared to pay the price, you can do it all yourself, the trade off will be a considerable amount of your time. Decide what that is worth to you. Once you get at least a hydraulic toplink, those investment cost's in TnT will seem well worth it. I use mine everyday. Rat...

P.S. if you do it yourself, get the right length top link to start. I had a Gannon top link cylinder already but had to lengthen it.

 

[techman]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

Actually neither SAE, NFPA or ISO have much to say about the work discussed here. Flatness of o-ring mating surfaces are mentioned, but things like o-ring pocket dimensions are at best recommended only.

I usually don't read the sports pages, and I do keep a copy of The Machinists Handbook in my machine shop.

You may have witnessed a leak related amputation, but it is extremely rare, much more so than being killed by lightning. I asked about a dozen people at work, all with over 20 years field experience in hydraulics (much with 5000 PSI systems) and no one could recall any permanent injury from an oil leak. I'm not saying it can't or hasn't happened, but exercising basic common sense makes the probability of it happening near zero.

I am glad that you are a skilled tradesman, who prides himself in his quality and work, but you shouldn't be so dismissive of "garage mechanics" that can innovate reasonable solutions at home, with reasonable, useable quality and minimal safety risk. Those without any skills should, and usually do stay away from such activities, but others are able to find solutions even though they are not "professionally qualified"

paul

 

[BBELL]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

I've got some picture of my home made part, tractor is up and running and guess what no leaks.

 

[BBELL]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

notice the pipe and fitting to make it easyer to attach hoses to. those are JIC male fittings

 

[BBELL]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

another angle

 

[BBELL]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

I painted the block so it wouldn't rust and the fittings also. The pipe is 304L S.S.

 

[BBELL]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

Here it is looped on my tractor till my valve spool come in from prince.

 

[_RaT_]

Re: Rear hydraulic on Kubotas the less expensive w

Thats great BBell, thanks for all the details.