Rear mounted loader?
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Iangb
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That's the deal..........but they do have an arrangement with Metkit so you can buy a complete kit and weld it up yourself.
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I made one myself and it worked suprisingly well, better in fact than some front loaders I have used on 2wd tractors. The best part about it was that you gained traction as you filled it. I simply attached a 3-pt lift boom to the tractor, and hooked that onto the top link position of a pond scoop. I ran a couple pieces of angle iron as extensions on the lower links to make those hookups. It really worked good for loading a manure spreader, but I also used it occasionally for loading a small dump truck with topsoil, and a trailer with stone. I had to put some weight on the tractor's front bumper for counterweight, and when I tried it on my Ford 8n, it could only lift the empty scoop. My front-weighted Ford 2000 would lift about 1/3 yard of topsoil however. It sure worked a lot better than a shovel or pitchfork. I only used this contraption when I had to lift to a significant hieght such as onto a truck, trailer, or spreader. The plain pondscoop without the boom was faster for just moving stuff around. Since getting a 4wd tractor with a front loader, I got rid of both the scoop and the boom (gave them to my dad). You are right that a tractor without a front loader is much more manuverable in tight quarters than one with a loader. A good feature of my rear loader was that it went on and off as fast as any 3-pt implement and it didnt cost me a dime as I already had the two implements that made most of it. It served me very well for about 10 years.
Sorry no photos, but it was just one of them basic 3 pt scoops, and lift boom like they sell at TSC. You can probably buy a scoop for around $300, and a boom for $100 or so, new today. The only trouble I had with it was a badly bent lower link arm on the tractor one time when I had to move a bunch of topsoil in a hurry with the dumptruck. The funny thing is, I still have that link arm as I straightened it out and use it on my 8n today (interchangeable with model 2000), but I sold the rest of the 2000 (with a new link arm) about 5 years ago. 3 pt hitches were not really intended for using in reverse so you had to take it kind of easy when using the rear loader. After bending that link, I added some stabilizer bars that made it much stronger, and never had any more problems.
JB4310
Super Member
Yeah but that's what you need so you don't have to get into an involved hydraulic system, you do have to have at least 1 aux remote.
Looks like it would be alright for occasional use and the price isn't through the roof, pretty easy to take it off when you didn't need it.
JB.
Taylortractornut
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Warratah in Australia made one, Then later Hooper thats a trip type but has a scissor boom. Ive made a few copies of them for my customers. One can be made for about 150 if you have a good source of scrap metal. You can do a google on rear loaders or linkage loaders as they are called in Europe. Westendorf makes one called Autodump, then theires Negrisolo, Then Forano is an old scissor type. And the old Dearborn rear loaders I have all but the boost cylinders to one of those. I also know a man that had one he made like a hay scissor that he put a bucket on and used it on a 3930 Ford to dig a hole to put a 2 ton log truck into so he could load with another 3 point scissor.
The version of scoop I made for my tractor at work was more like a combo of the Cad loader and the Negrisolo rig.
im posting a pic of the Hooper scissor lift scoop
The version of scoop I made for my tractor at work was more like a combo of the Cad loader and the Negrisolo rig.
im posting a pic of the Hooper scissor lift scoop
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RoyJackson
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While the rear loader is being considered, don't forget about the ballast you'll require on the front end of the tractor, especially if you want that loader to go more then a foot or three up.
And while you're considering front ballast, consider the extra weight you'll be carrying on that front axle. Most CUT front axles cannot handle an excessive amount of weight.
Just something to think about...
And while you're considering front ballast, consider the extra weight you'll be carrying on that front axle. Most CUT front axles cannot handle an excessive amount of weight.
Just something to think about...
I am new at this too.
i am going to the farm show in Louisville and look at the Westendorf Autodump.
it is the only dump i have seen in the US that does what you describe and it is what i am considering.
go to westendorf mfg website and you will see it. there is a video of the WR_10 on youtube
dourobob
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There was a company in Canada that made one called a WIFO loader
WIFO Farm Equipment Limited
It does not show on their web site any longer.
I sold one for $200 a couple of years ago. I had used it on a 1951 Ferguson TEA 2085. Worked well.
Good luck in your search.
WIFO Farm Equipment Limited
It does not show on their web site any longer.
I sold one for $200 a couple of years ago. I had used it on a 1951 Ferguson TEA 2085. Worked well.
Good luck in your search.
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dourobob
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All I had was the manure bucket but I have seen guys fabricate a shell to sit inside the tines and then use it as a material bucket.
Good luck in the search.
I sold mine to a friend who is in Northern Ontario and he recently bought a tractor with a FEL - I can ask him if he wants to sell it. Probably a long haul for you to North Bay Ontario.
Bob
boggen
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pending on dry lot size. and if there are fence around it. a small size skid steer can be more easier to manuver. within the dry lot. more so getting into corners and around feeders.
skid steers ((when i say bobcats non tractor folks around me tend to figure out what i am talking about quicker)) have a much shorter turning radius, and you can almost have zero turn if you want to bounce around some and scuff the tires some.
as far as front loader vs rear loader. on a tractor. i would go with front loader. more so if you have 2 wheel drive older tractor. with the bucket on front. you can get yourself out of alot more sticky stuck situations. ((been there done that, to many times)) by curling the bucket and kind pushing your way backward. giving your rear tires more weight in idea to bite into the ground and roll the tractor up and out of a rut.
also with a front loader on, you generally always want to drive with the bucket all the way down or as low as you can go to the ground without hitting the ground. ((helps you from rolling the tractor over)) but also if you are driving through tall grass and weeds. your bucket will hit what ever first. if it is a fallen down tree limb or a stump, as far as a creek or wash out that you didn't know about / forgot about. with loader being on front. you will get your front tires down into it. but with loader bucket low down to ground, you will not fall clear down into it. and with the bucket on front you should be able to work the front loader bucket, to push the front end back up and over the edge. while working the back tires and the back tire brakes to get up and out of the area.
having the loader on rear... to much balance problems more so when ya get that bucket full. IMHO. and your front end will become light or come off the ground. resulting you working the left and right back tire brakes. plus turning your head backwards. no thanks.
as far as getting traction and digging into a pile of dirt, or down into the ground. loaders are not the best thing for digging. they are "loaders" while they can skim dirt off of the ground. with some work. you are better off with other attachments for digging and grading.
=======================
skidsteers are a tractor in a sense. and there are plenty of implements for them out there. i tend to see many farmers with bigger size field tractors. and then having skid steer with a bucket, pallet forks, etc... for them. to move stuff out of trucks or off trailers and into sheds. move seed bags around, 55 gallon drums, land scape work, etc...
and then i tend to see folks around not really needing a big size field tractor. but having enough land, that a skid steer is to small, and needing a bigger size tractor say larger size compact tractor that is more versatile for attachments, and more horse power. than a skid steer to do what needs to be done.
i then tend to see folks in the landscaping buisness having skidsteers. (smaller size, smaller turn radius, less weight, to due the smaller size jobs that require alot of material moving. vs shovel and wheel barrow. and if the job is a little bit bigger, the skidsteer grant would take more time. vs a larger size compact tractor might take, but works for them.
4x4 or MFWD tractors i honestly would rather have. but if it is too muddy for a 2 wheel drive tractor i most likely shouldn't be outside in first place due to all the ruts i would be making, but a good old 2 wheel drive tractor with a front loader already on it. can be a nice piece of machinery. but if ya not DIY'er and half way mechanically inclined. be prepared to do some paying for repairs. or good long down times as you figure stuff out on the older tractors. buying a shop/parts manual and operators manual can be worth it.
for myself when it came down to choice, i knew a skidsteer would be nice, but for what needed to be done on the farm, pasture, lakes, just not enough horse power. and it would end up being cheaper long run. for a bigger size tractor. and slowly getting implements and selling other implements off as i get done with various things. though at initial choice it was a tough call.
=============
don't glue yourself to the internet, make phone calls as well. check local papers for auctions as well.
skid steers ((when i say bobcats non tractor folks around me tend to figure out what i am talking about quicker)) have a much shorter turning radius, and you can almost have zero turn if you want to bounce around some and scuff the tires some.
as far as front loader vs rear loader. on a tractor. i would go with front loader. more so if you have 2 wheel drive older tractor. with the bucket on front. you can get yourself out of alot more sticky stuck situations. ((been there done that, to many times)) by curling the bucket and kind pushing your way backward. giving your rear tires more weight in idea to bite into the ground and roll the tractor up and out of a rut.
also with a front loader on, you generally always want to drive with the bucket all the way down or as low as you can go to the ground without hitting the ground. ((helps you from rolling the tractor over)) but also if you are driving through tall grass and weeds. your bucket will hit what ever first. if it is a fallen down tree limb or a stump, as far as a creek or wash out that you didn't know about / forgot about. with loader being on front. you will get your front tires down into it. but with loader bucket low down to ground, you will not fall clear down into it. and with the bucket on front you should be able to work the front loader bucket, to push the front end back up and over the edge. while working the back tires and the back tire brakes to get up and out of the area.
having the loader on rear... to much balance problems more so when ya get that bucket full. IMHO. and your front end will become light or come off the ground. resulting you working the left and right back tire brakes. plus turning your head backwards. no thanks.
as far as getting traction and digging into a pile of dirt, or down into the ground. loaders are not the best thing for digging. they are "loaders" while they can skim dirt off of the ground. with some work. you are better off with other attachments for digging and grading.
=======================
skidsteers are a tractor in a sense. and there are plenty of implements for them out there. i tend to see many farmers with bigger size field tractors. and then having skid steer with a bucket, pallet forks, etc... for them. to move stuff out of trucks or off trailers and into sheds. move seed bags around, 55 gallon drums, land scape work, etc...
and then i tend to see folks around not really needing a big size field tractor. but having enough land, that a skid steer is to small, and needing a bigger size tractor say larger size compact tractor that is more versatile for attachments, and more horse power. than a skid steer to do what needs to be done.
i then tend to see folks in the landscaping buisness having skidsteers. (smaller size, smaller turn radius, less weight, to due the smaller size jobs that require alot of material moving. vs shovel and wheel barrow. and if the job is a little bit bigger, the skidsteer grant would take more time. vs a larger size compact tractor might take, but works for them.
4x4 or MFWD tractors i honestly would rather have. but if it is too muddy for a 2 wheel drive tractor i most likely shouldn't be outside in first place due to all the ruts i would be making, but a good old 2 wheel drive tractor with a front loader already on it. can be a nice piece of machinery. but if ya not DIY'er and half way mechanically inclined. be prepared to do some paying for repairs. or good long down times as you figure stuff out on the older tractors. buying a shop/parts manual and operators manual can be worth it.
for myself when it came down to choice, i knew a skidsteer would be nice, but for what needed to be done on the farm, pasture, lakes, just not enough horse power. and it would end up being cheaper long run. for a bigger size tractor. and slowly getting implements and selling other implements off as i get done with various things. though at initial choice it was a tough call.
=============
don't glue yourself to the internet, make phone calls as well. check local papers for auctions as well.
boggen
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another thing to think about if you want tight turn radius.
if you are going with a tractor. vs skid steer. a small front end tractor. were the 2 front tires basicly sit directly below the engine. can provide a tight turn radius. though when ya trying to use a front loader. you can easily loose turning of front wheels. if ya put the bucket down to much, and end up relying many times on rear left and right tire brake pedels
also a short front end can be rather unsafe if you pick the loader all the way up. and could tip the tractor over on it side. resulting in death or serious injury.
other words, think about ATV 4 wheelers vs 3 wheelers. vs wide front end vs short narrow front end. short narrow front end are generally field tractors for getting the tractor through rows of crops.
if you are going with a tractor. vs skid steer. a small front end tractor. were the 2 front tires basicly sit directly below the engine. can provide a tight turn radius. though when ya trying to use a front loader. you can easily loose turning of front wheels. if ya put the bucket down to much, and end up relying many times on rear left and right tire brake pedels
also a short front end can be rather unsafe if you pick the loader all the way up. and could tip the tractor over on it side. resulting in death or serious injury.
other words, think about ATV 4 wheelers vs 3 wheelers. vs wide front end vs short narrow front end. short narrow front end are generally field tractors for getting the tractor through rows of crops.
A problem with used 2wd front loader tractors is most of them are so beat up they aint worth looking at. This is a much bigger issue with 2wd than 4wd. With 4wd, the bucket can be easily filled thru the smooth application of force, even by a novice operator. With 2wd, this dont happen due to the traction balance issue. As a result, momentum (high speed impact) is often employed to do the job, even by experienced operators. That momentum causes much higher peak forces on welds, pins, etc, and takes a heavy toll on the machine over time. A big advantage of the rear loader on a 2wd is that the bucket can be filled with the smooth application of force just like a front loader on a 4wd. It is true that the front loader can often be used to push or pull out a stuck 2wd. The problem with that is that the loader weight is in the wrong place to assist wheel traction and actually reduces it significantly. That is why you dont see many farmers working land with 2wd loader tractors. With a 4wd, all that loader weight directly increases overall wheel traction. For me, the biggest deal since getting 4wd 5 years ago was an average reduction of (1) month in time required for spring tillage and planting and the second was about a 25% reduction in fuel usage. If I was limited to 2wd (thankfully I am not) I would certainly go back to the rear loader before I considered putting one up front.
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