Rear Remotes

[GATC35]

I priced remotes for my Class III Boomer thru Messicks's Farm Equipment in Elizabethtown PA. First set was $250.00, Each addidtional was $225.00. I hope to place an order for mine within the next month. Call or e-mail Neil, I'm sure he can help. Click on dealers at the banner up top of this page.

And Oh Yea ! I have no vested interested, etc. in Messicks. I have contacted them on several occasions and they are just good folks to work with.

 

[KenVT]

thanks for all the advice, Job looks doable using Pineridge's step by step 'how-to for dummies', but..do you really need to take off the RR tire, and if so,
how muck does a loaded R4 weigh?
It looks like there is plenty of room to work around it, and
how do you bleed out the lines after?

Ken

 

[chatcher]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( thanks for all the advice, Job looks doable using Pineridge's step by step 'how-to for dummies', but..do you really need to take off the RR tire, and if so,
how muck does a loaded R4 weigh?
It looks like there is plenty of room to work around it, and
how do you bleed out the lines after?

Ken
)</font>

Loaded R4's are plenty heavy. The trick is never to pick them up or let them fall over. It isn't too hard to roll them and lean them - just keep in mind the potential hazard of lettiing one fall on you and if you lose control of it, get the heck away and let it go. If you are careful jacking the tractor up you can just barely take the weight off the wheel so that it will come off the lug studs without dropping. It helps to have a second person helping. Best to jack up one side only instead of from the center, otherwise when the first wheel comes off the tractor tips over to the other side, possibly with a great deal of force. Don't ask how I know that.

I haven't installed remotes on mine yet, so I can't answer about the bleeding. I would guess the air comes out during use of the remote equipment.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It looks like there is plenty of room to work around it, and
how do you bleed out the lines after? )</font>

Don't even think about doing it without removing the right rear tire. You have to remove a plate and install the hydraulic lines before putting the remote valves into place. The first remote has to be in place with the hydraulic line tight before you can put the second one on. After the 2nd is in place, you cannot get a wrench on the the first valve, so make sure everything is tight and leak free or after you get it all together, you'll have some small leaks. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

You can handle the loaded tire if you follow Chatcher's advice. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[PineRidge]

I would also advise using a good pipe thread sealant. I even put a little on the flared threads knowing that it wasn't necessary but using it as a lubricant to help me get everything tight. As Jim said you don't want remote number one to leak after 2 and 3 is in position or you'll be cussing a blue streak.

Jim had some corrosion issues with the innards of his rear remotes so I disassembled mine right out of the box, even before installing them and coated the internal parts like the springs and such with Never Seize. (see picture) The heavy grease prevents rusting and galling and makes disassembly at a later date much easier. It may be a bit overkill but I figured it was easier to do it at that time then a year or two later.

Be extra careful with that filled rear tire. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[KenVT]

this is the type of info you just don't get from the people around here.... Much appreciated!

I did call the New Holland dealer, in New york (35-40 miles away) He has the 1st set of remotes on hand, and can order the 2nd and 3rd,... oh, did I mention , the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are all priced @ 250 a piece, /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I mentioned that I heard that the 2nd and 3rd were a little cheaper, he said that actually the 1st set has gone up, but he is still selling them for 250, sounds right.. as I know that steel is through the roof. Well... 'morrow I'm going to ask my dealer how he lives with himself, and even if he matches the price.... Well, He won't see me around too much.

Ken

 

[KenVT]

I did ask him if the RR tire had to come off for only 1 remote, he said it didn't but it would make it easier to install, He also said there was no need to bleed out the lines... Is this right? (Probably, just being careful, my only experience is with brake lines...)

Thanks,
Ken

 

[DocHeb]

Run the remotes and they will self bleed. It is not a closed-end system like brakes - the air will be pushed through the system back to the return reservoir.

 

[PineRidge]

Ken I'm with Jim on this one. I wouldn't even attempt it without removing the right rear tire. It's impossible for a normal person who insn't double jointed in more places than I want to mention to have access while the tire is still in place.

Don't worry about the lines. The first time you make a connection to the quick connects any trapped air will take care of itself.

 

[boomer4snow]

Well, I installed 1 rear remote on a tc40DA and I left the rear tire on. Mine has loaded tires and double wheel weights, so I thought I would give it a try before I went thru the extra hassle. Well I am 6'1 and a touch over 215 lbs /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif (well that's what my drivers lic. says) and I managed to get the remote on leak free in about an hour with a stubby ratchet, and some gearwrenches (metric, can't believe how many metric fastners) It would have been easier to do with the tire off, but in my case R&R the tire/weights would have been just as much work too. I do not see how it would be possible if you were adding more than just 1 remote though. If that's the case, yank the tire.