Rear wheel seal on YM2000

[clemsonfor]

 

[clemsonfor]

 

[clemsonfor]

OK TNB did not like my pics to be attached and kept messing up and not loading some. This is the reason for the 3 posts with pics. This is the only way i could load the remaining pics, if i went to the same reply the old ones were still in the box unloaded??

Anyway i had thm in order now there all outta whack cause some loaded and others didnt. You should be able to figure this out. Its dissassembly and reassembly.

 

[winston1]

Nice pictures. Looks like your just about back on the road again.

 

[clemsonfor]

I did not have time to comment on the pics as i was trying to get out the door this mourning.

Sorry that there just cell pics, not as good, but better than nothing. I wanted to take them for others doing this.

OK the seal colar is metal bonded to rubber (viton or something stiff) for the inner part of it. You can see it in the first set of pics where its just the colar. The old one was not easily seen which is why i thought it was all metal. Its about 1/3 metal 2/3 rubber it looks like if i remember right or 60/40 or something.

I did the whack turn 90 degrees and go again till it was loose, then i kind of pryed it with 2 screw drivers, which is why i had that screw driver there for the pic. i then just pulled it off. The new one i lubed up and cleaned the shaft, and slid on till it stopped. i spun it, and had a pipe fitting that went till the splines ended on the shaft then was just barely to small to fit over the smooth part of the shaft. I put just a bit of heat to it, as i was worried about melting the rubber, it was still enough to burn me as i touched it with a finger. There was no melting of rubber as i was carful, i was able to push it by hand another 1/2" or so,but could not seat it the last 1/2" against the race. I ended up getting a peice of 2x wood and a dead blow and slowly tapping it around like you would a seal till it seated firmly against the race. This is really an easy job, and i made it out to be more than it is. With it being rubber on the inside i think is why it goes on and removes so easy.

 

[winston1]

Didn't seem to be anyone around that knew the seal collar had rubber in it. Guess we all learned something here. At least I did. Thanks for sharing your repairs.

 

[clemsonfor]

Thats why i posted it, from what i got here even from Gary who tore his down, it sounded like it was solid metal?

But yea, when i opened the new one yesterday, i was thingking "huh new design", as the one on there looked like solid metal. But it too had a rubber backing. Which makes sense how it seals to the axle so well i guess.

The new carrier and seal fit nice n snugly on the new collar, it should not leak!

 

[Gary Sweat]

Thats why i posted it, from what i got here even from Gary who tore his down, it sounded like it was solid metal?

But yea, when i opened the new one yesterday, i was thingking "huh new design", as the one on there looked like solid metal. But it too had a rubber backing. Which makes sense how it seals to the axle so well i guess.

The new carrier and seal fit nice n snugly on the new collar, it should not leak!

I forgot to mention the rubber because I forgot about it after a year or so. But I did say you can take the seal collar off with a couple of screwdrivers in post #22.

"You can see from the photo, that bearing is going to be hard to get a hold on to pull it out without taking the axle off the tractor and pushing it out from the inside. If your just going to replace the seal collar, it will come off pretty easy with just a couple of screw drivers pushing on both sides. Take care not to scratch the new one putting it back on and make sure the axle is very clean."

Sorry about missing the rubber on the inside. And glad to see you got it repaired.

 

[clemsonfor]

I remember about the screw drivers thats kind of where the idea came from that and common sense. But i could not tap screw drivers in behind the seal as it was seized to the axle and nothing would go back there and pry. I was worried about maring and jarring the bearings why i did not do to much of it. Thats where the chisel worked it loosend the rubbers grip and i was able to slip it out a 1/16 or so then slip the screw drivers back there and pry.

And yes you would have to take the axle off to press that bearing out. I was not going to do that so i did not want to remove the axle.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I remember about the screw drivers thats kind of where the idea came from that and common sense. But i could not tap screw drivers in behind the seal as it was seized to the axle and nothing would go back there and pry. I was worried about maring and jarring the bearings why i did not do to much of it. Thats where the chisel worked it loosend the rubbers grip and i was able to slip it out a 1/16 or so then slip the screw drivers back there and pry.

And yes you would have to take the axle off to press that bearing out. I was not going to do that so i did not want to remove the axle.

On the axle that I just replaced the collar and seal, I sprayed Kroil on it the night before and let it sit. It loosened the bond on the axle and the collar came off with just a little pressure with the screwdrivers. One more thing I forgot about doing. Seems I can remember the big things but not the little ones that make the bigger ones easier to do. Kroil works better than any penetrating oil I have used. You just have to give it time to work. I'm going to pull the axle this time and do what I did on the other side. The way Yanmar is going, I better order all the parts I want and fix them and then sell the tractor. I like the tractor but I don't care for Yanmar anymore.