Rear wheel weights vs filling tires

[Gary Sweat]

I'm sure you have your reasons as to not wanting have the bb connected for ballast weight, But I must suggest that using a ballast connected to the rear of the tractor extending past the rear tires not only give traction but also helps to unload weight from the front, think about it for a moment! like a child seesaw the weight is over the center support just as the weight is on the axle of a tractor, the farther back the ballast the more equal the load on front becomes,:thumbsup: however I'm not saying that liquid or wheel weights don't add benefits to traction, They do... but while using a FEL it does help to have a ballast weight on the rear,

Had a while to think this over and now I understand better what you are saying. I agree, it is better to have a counter balance behind the tractor. I don't know how to go about figuring how much effect the loader is placing on the chassis so I don't know what would be the best overall weight to add to even out the added stress.

I am going to have to build a quick hitch since I can't find any that are 24" spacing and that is what my BB, bush hog, lift bar and trailer hitch are.

You can ignore the first reply since I should have taken time to think it through before posting. I was just stuck on not wanting to have hook up an attachment every time to use the loader. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[skipmarcy]

Most compact/subcompact tractors with FEL have framing that runs from the front loader framing to the rear axle of the tractor to help take some stress off the front and center of the tractor. With this proper framing it allows for heavier ballast on your 3ph.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm sure you have your reasons as to not wanting have the bb connected for ballast weight, But I must suggest that using a ballast connected to the rear of the tractor extending past the rear tires not only give traction but also helps to unload weight from the front, think about it for a moment! like a child seesaw the weight is over the center support just as the weight is on the axle of a tractor, the farther back the ballast the more equal the load on front becomes,:thumbsup: however I'm not saying that liquid or wheel weights don't add benefits to traction, They do... but while using a FEL it does help to have a ballast weight on the rear,

Had a while to think this over and now I understand better what you are saying. I agree, it is better to have a counter balance behind the tractor. I don't know how to go about figuring how much effect the loader is placing on the chassis so I don't know what would be the best overall weight to add to even out the added stress.

I am going to have to build a quick hitch since I can't find any that are 24" spacing and that is what my BB, bush hog, lift bar and trailer hitch are.

You can ignore the first reply since I should have taken time to think it through before posting. I was just stuck on not wanting to have hook up an attachment every time to use the loader. Thanks for the explanation.

The weight unloaded from the front is not much considering the pivot points and distances. The main reason to use counterweight is that it has a bit more leverage hanging behind to keep your rears hard against the ground. It can also be hung very low -- below CG. Thats stability and every bit helps. Dont worry about the front. Take it slow. If the front axle has problems the tractor is not suited to a loader. Get a different tractor.
larry

 

[Gary Sweat]

The weight unloaded from the front is not much considering the pivot points and distances. The main reason to use counterweight is that it has a bit more leverage hanging behind to keep your rears hard against the ground. It can also be hung very low -- below CG. Thats stability and every bit helps. Dont worry about the front. Take it slow. If the front axle has problems the tractor is not suited to a loader. Get a different tractor.
larry

I don't have any problems with the front axle. It is doing fine and so far the tractor handles about the same as it did. A little more resistance on the steering but not much. I have just run into a few situations where the rear tires will spin backing up without an implement on the 3pt. I don't have any experience with filling the tires or adding wheel weights so i wanted to hear the pros and cons of each.

My property has a lot of trees that I have to get the tractor around through and I've been using the box blade since it's the shortest but it is adding to that hassle.

I appreciate every ones input. I still haven't decided the best way to go yet.

 

[k0ua]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/177061-using-truck-bed-coating-floorboards-3.html

check out the center pix. the thread deals with my bed liner coating of the floorboards of my tractor, but the center photo shows my ballast barrel and also the carter quick hitches. think about both, the barrel solves the clearance problem, gives you rear storage, and gives you a bunch of weight, mine is about 750 lbs, has open storage on top, and the 2 inch pvc pipes provide holders for handle tools. also inside is a 6 inch pipe for chain storage.
The Carters save a lot of time and cuss words vs the stock 3 pt. balls and cost only 89 bones and are easy to remove if you want to go back to the standard 3 pt hitch balls. They arent any John Deere I match or anything but in my opinion they are worth the money. Also another benefit of the Carters, is no changes in PTO shaft is neccessary as they do not lengthen the hitch setup, as they sit on top on the lower arms not behind them. Once you load your tires and add the proper ballast on the back, you wont believe how much more stable, and powerful you tractor will be for loader work.
James K0UA

 

[bp fick]

On my Kubota BX, I really like the wheel weights. While a grunt to put on and off, still, quite manageable. I liked them when plowing snow, working in the dirt and ballast for the FEL but didn't want them for mowing.

Now, with my new B2320, I haven't made up my mind yet. First, even finding wheel weights for the B series is an unknown commodity, and secondly, I'm sure the weight would be too much for me to handle, given the 16.5 inch rear wheels size. Leaning toward filling.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I think I have mislead everyone on what I was wanting to know.

The loader was built with the tractor in mind and not what I could do with it or how much I could load it. It was built small, light and a small bucket. The bucket is 19" deep, 16" tall and 42" wide. As best as I can tell, it is not hurting the front end or the tractor and that is what I wanted. Yea, it will take more trips to do the same as a normal size loader but that is not a problem for me.

I have found out that the loader is a handy tool to clear out the undergrowth in my woods. But the trees are a little close together and getting around through them is sometimes tight at best. With just the loader and no attachment on the back it works great except when I go to level a high spot and load the bucket then I sometimes loose traction backing up. Doesn't seem to have the problem going forward. So for that reason I would like to add weight to the tires. I just didn't know if one method was better than the other and why it would be so.

I really do like all the responses and they have given me something to think about when adding implements and how they can affect stability. Here's a picture so you can see the loader is pretty small as they go.

 

[deepNdirt]

sorry there Gary Sweat, didn't mean to sidetrack your original question, I'm sure someone will chime in that has had experience with both types of tires weight and give you the answer your looking for, as fore me I cannot "weigh in" on this issue ( Pun intended ) as I never have use either kind, although most folks I know with their tractors use water/antifreeze in the tires,

 

[Gary Sweat]

sorry there Gary Sweat, didn't mean to sidetrack your original question, I'm sure someone will chime in that has had experience with both types of tires weight and give you the answer your looking for, as fore me I cannot "weigh in" on this issue ( Pun intended ) as I never have use either kind, although most folks I know with their tractors use water/antifreeze in the tires,

No problem, I thought your post was very informative. Gave me some things to think about. The tractor was given to me by my dad a few years ago before he passed away and he liked it a lot. So, it's one of those things I can't exactly swap in for another one and have to take care not to break it beyond repair. It's the only tractor I have ever owned and have a lot to learn so I ask a lot of seemingly simple questions about it so I don't damage it.

Thanks again for the information on how loading a tractor effects it.

 

[deepNdirt]

No problem, I thought your post was very informative. Gave me some things to think about. The tractor was given to me by my dad a few years ago before he passed away and he liked it a lot. So, it's one of those things I can't exactly swap in for another one and have to take care not to break it beyond repair. It's the only tractor I have ever owned and have a lot to learn so I ask a lot of seemingly simple questions about it so I don't damage it.

Thanks again for the information on how loading a tractor effects it.

Sorry about the loss of your Dad, I can understand the sentimental value of your tractor and would have the same concerns myself about taking care of it,
if you are interested in reinforcing the tractor? I can share with you what I did to mine, But with you having already built the FEL you have metal fabrications skills well beyond mine, I'm sure you have already examined the stress area's that would need to be addressed and reinforced and most likely have your own plans underway