Quick Hitches Removing PTO from bush hog

[JTXN]

Hello,
New to tractors and this forum. I just purchased a 60s ish MF 135 from my father in law. It's the diesel version and runs great, just needs a little work.

He gave me a brush hog that needs a new PTO shaft. I'm trying to disconnect the yoke from the other yoke (correct me if my terms are wrong) that attaches to the slip clutch.

I've removed the 2 clips on the PTO shaft yoke. Do I need to remove clips on the inside, then hammer it out? All the videos I've seen use a vice or a press which does me no good since its attached to the gearbox. The gearbox and blades move easily for being outside for 10 years. I realize a new mower may be better, but I just want to cut once and then worry about it next year.

Appreciate any help.

 

[TractorGuy]

You need to pull the clutch off the gearbox. Edit: Looks like it has a clamp bolt or tapered pin holding the clutch end to the gearbox. New shaft will come with a new clutch if replacing the whole thing. Look for a complete replacement to simplify your life.

Bush Hog 35 and 36 Rotary Cutters Parts Diagrams

Replacing u joints is tricky if you've never done it. You will need to get the whole thing off and in a vise to do it properly. Getting the caps back in, clipped, and unloaded without damaging the needle bearings takes some practice. Might want to watch some you tube videos on replacing u joints.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Basically this above. What exactly does it need ?

 

[CobyRupert]

I may be all wet, but I don't believe you want to disconnect one yoke from the other yoke. I assume the entire joint needs to come off the gearbox input shaft that we can't see under the plastic housing in your first picture.

Edit: On 2nd look, it looks like that universal joint connects to a slip clutch that then connects to the gearbox input shaft.

 

[JTXN]

The shaft plastic is broken and slid down. So the metal part where both shafts meet was exposed to the elements for 10 years. Tried a bunch of PB blaster, chained it to a tree and reversed, and it will not budge. Its about 3" too long to hook up to the tractor PTO. Not sure if its bent, I didnt hit it too hard for fear of further damage.

 

[TractorGuy]

Click on the link I furnished and go to the driveshaft section to see how the parts break down. If you live near a Agri Supply they will probably have a complete shaft to fit it.

 

[JTXN]

Click on the link I furnished and go to the driveshaft section to see how the parts break down. If you live near a Agri Supply they will probably have a complete shaft to fit it.

Thanks to all. I'll do some more investigating and take some more pictures. Sounds like it might be quite a bit easier to take the whole thing off.

 

[TractorGuy]

I've fought and won over several stuck shafts. If it isn't bent some penetrating fluid and heat might get it.

That parts breakdown looks like the actual shaft tubes are attached at the joints with roll pins.

Problem is with it sitting that long I imagine the clutch is stuck too. You will need to loosen and free up everyting to trust it won't damage the tractor when you hit something.

 

[JTXN]

I've fought and won over several stuck shafts. If it isn't bent some penetrating fluid and heat might get it.

That parts breakdown looks like the actual shaft tubes are attached at the joints with roll pins.

Problem is with it sitting that long I imagine the clutch is stuck too. You will need to loosen and free up everyting to trust it won't damage the tractor when you hit something.

This can be remedied with a whole new clutch / PTO assembly right? Agrisupply has a few for 150-200.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yes a complete shaft would be all new parts

 

[TractorGuy]

This can be remedied with a whole new clutch / PTO assembly right? Agrisupply has a few for 150-200.

That was my first suggestion.

Just make sure to get the correct length and ends to connect at the tractor and implement.

 

[JTXN]

Here are some pictures. Everything look standard? Spline on both ends. Total shaft including clutch is about 50". Will order a new cover also.

 

[airbiscuit]

So, why can't you just loosen everything up, cut the shaft down a bit and use it?

 

[TractorGuy]

Here are some pictures. Everything look standard? Spline on both ends. Total shaft including clutch is about 50". Will order a new cover also.View attachment 619998View attachment 619999View attachment 620000

Does the spline on the gearbox look just like the PTO shaft on the tractor? If so you can use a shaft with the spring loaded pin on each end. If not the challenge might be finding a shaft with the same type end you have on the clutch end of the shaft. The safety cover should come on a new shaft.

Gearbox spline would need the relief like the tractor PTO shaft to use the spring pins on both ends. You would need a 60" shaft minimum if that shaft is about the right length to connect as it's frozen. Connect the tractor to the bush hog and measure from spline to spline. Add the length of both splines and a foot or so to determine new shaft length.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Take that entire shaft assembly to a heavy duty truck shop and they can install new u joints and free it up.

 

[TractorGuy]

Take that entire shaft assembly to a heavy duty truck shop and they can install new u joints and free it up.

You can buy a brand new shaft with clutch and safety cover for $161.
PTO Shaft-PTO Shafts | Agri Supply 12242

 

[airbiscuit]

Wasn't the problem that it was 3" too long? If so, free everything up, adjust the slip clutch and cut to the appropriate length. Or, spend $161 if you like.

 

[TractorGuy]

Wasn't the problem that it was 3" too long? If so, free everything up, adjust the slip clutch and cut to the appropriate length. Or, spend $161 if you like.

The issue is it's frozen in place and he can't get it to free up. It's 3" too long as it sits but that is a moot point. If he could get the shaft free to slide it would easily slide in to the correct length. He said he tried chaining it to a tree and couldn't get it apart. Could be 10 years of rust has made it unrecoverable by any means.

If it were mine I would attempt to cut the plastic off, heat the tube with a torch, free up, and lube. In the process I would have ruined the temper of the metal and risked having the tube twist during use. Some folks don't have a torch or the inclination to do all that so a new unit would not only solve his problem but would also give him a new unfrozen clutch and a new safety sleeve.

 

[airbiscuit]

I'm not saying the OP shouldn't buy new. Sometimes a softer touch is better than brute force. I had a frozen PTO shaft. Hooked on to the loader, but no go. Soaked in PB Blaster, chained one end to a tree and the other end to a come a long. Applied tension, did tap, tap tap with a hammer, and it flew apart.

 

[JTXN]

I ended up buying a new shaft for 170. Time is money and with a 2 year old and a full time job and everything else in life it was worth it to me. I also try to be as safe as possible.

I did not cut the shaft because it has about 12" of overlap before the covers bottom out.

I started out in 1L and it wasnt cutting at all. Put it in 2H and gave it some more RPMs and it started cutting. Grass is spring growth (dead) and really heavy summer growth.

The deck is not level and the tailwheel probably needs lowering. It cuts uneven at an angle but hey this was my third time on a tractor with the first two times loading and unloading it on the trailer. First time mowing. I was smiling the whole time putting along at 3mph.

Plenty of time to figure out deck issues later. Any tips for a MF135 are appreciated. Overall it pulled a 6' hog pretty well for not having sway bars.

Me and one-eyed Betty had a great time.