Rent or buy a chipper-- I need to decide soon

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Did you have a use for the chips? In my case I could put them down on some dirt roads through the property. Or put them down where I am trying to get weeds not to grow?

Over the last 20 years I think I've used every method for dealing with downfall and debris.

As for chips. One year when I took down a bunch of doomed "flagpole poplars" I hired a giant chipper that can chip an entire 6" diameter 40' long tree in about 1 minute, plus a crew to run it. Ended up with a pile of chips about the size of a school bus.

It's not very attractive mulch, if that matters to you. And I wouldn't put it in beds as it's too green and will suck nutrients from the soil. I chose to compost it. It did take about 3 years to compost, probably because there wasn't enough "green" mixed in with the "brown."

Definitely if you put it down 4-6" deep it will smother weed growth. I think that might the best use for it. Wait a year or two and that area will be weed-free, enriched with nutrients, and ready to plant.

 

[plowhog]

I value and learn from everything you post. Thank you.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

The estimate for timber net proceeds is in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. But, lucky me, we are not doing this for money. We have held off for many years against family pressure to do this-- researching and learning.

The local registered professional foresters have all said that the forest health will be enhanced by a timber harvest. It is so overstocked that nothing below the forest canopy has a chance to grow. It is causing a reorientation of species due to this, with cedars taking over because pines can't get enough light to grow. We could cut up to 90% or 100% of timber legally; and for a lot more money. Instead, we are looking at 40% to 50% for forest health. We are stewards of the land.

Based on your prior posts, I will insist any standing dead trees not be removed. Those are habitat-- and trees with no merchantable value. I don't want to cut down a nest of baby birds just to remove a tree that does not need removing. So your advice is appreciated!

Oh, I'm so glad you feel this way.

Amazing the difference in timber prices. I live in the land of lots of trees, cheap labor, cheap everything really, and frankly little appreciation for natural resources, so forests go for pennies here. I can easily believe in CA it would be different. If timber went for those prices here, we wouldn't have a twig left.

I've been looking at land for the last year or so.....you know how you always want more. Recently toured a 50-acre tract of pretty close to virgin forest (virtually inaccessible is the only reason it hasn't been cut). Just amazing. Saw sights I've never seen around these parts. The owners had had a "timber inventory" done, and I got a copy, and the grand total estimated value for the timber on 50 acres of priceless near-virgin forest was.....$80k.

Only one last comment re "professional foresters." Hmmm, around here, a "forester" interprets "forest health" to mean getting the max $$$$ for your timber. You should have state resources such as a state biologist, state conservationist, etc., etc., all of which will come to your property for free. Be nice to get some other opinions, so you're sure.

Thank you for paying any attention to my "save the forest" posts. Nice to know anyone is listening.

 

[newbury]

OK, back to basics. I think I should buy a chipper. I can justify that.

I won't chip anything past 4", so if I get a 6" compatible chipper I should be well within capacity. Now it is ... which one to buy?

Are you chipping straight poles? Most of the deciduous trees I've chipped had branches that went every which way but straight. I think I only chipped one branch that was about 5 inches but I often wished I had a larger opening to squeeze branches and brambles through.
/edit - and note I have the Jinma 8" chipper.

 

[ericm979]

The larger the chipper's capacity the less cutting you need to do on the material you're feeding to it. The 8" Woodmaxx and Woodland Mills models are only a few hundred $$ more than their 6" models. They both have advantages over the 6" in addition to the capacity, such as much heavier flywheels that turn faster and better feed mechanisms. The Woodmaxx 8H has upper and lower feed rollers instead of a single roller and WM's 8" has a larger single roller. Those improvements will make them feed better on all sizes but especially irregular material. I'd only get the 6" for a low power tractor.

GirlWhoWantsTractor's advice is good. There used to be a lot more fires in the forest and at lower intensities than most modern fires. There wasn't fire suppression and the native peoples often set fires as a way to manage the land. This resulted in a mix of open areas and forest and mature forest without a thick understory. We can't do control burns now but we can manage the land through mechanical means.

 

[plowhog]

Are you chipping straight poles? Most of the deciduous trees I've chipped had branches that went every which way but straight. I think I only chipped one branch that was about 5 inches but I often wished I had a larger opening to squeeze branches and brambles through.

This is the dilemma of buying a chipper without ever having the experience to use one. I presume most of what I chip will have lots of attached branches, so ... no straight poles. Looking at the two Woodland Mills units, I believe one has a 6"x8" opening, and the other 8"x8". Hard to figure the relative benefit of the larger vs smaller, although with machinery larger is often better.

 

[plowhog]

Only one last comment re "professional foresters." Hmmm, around here, a "forester" interprets "forest health" to mean getting the max $$$$ for your timber.

In CA they are "registered professional foresters." I've worked with several, and what I have experienced is a strong focus on forest health and other interactions with nature. Like where the watercourses are, how to deal with that during a (anticipated) logging operation, disturbing archaeological sites, special species of animals or birds, etc. In only two brief instances did any mention of $$ come up-- both times at my request. (One for a legal process, one to evaluate finances including paying the significant fees involved for a timber harvest.)

In our area, a timber harvest plan (THP) has to be submitted to Cal Fire. Developing that plan is extensive, taking several months of effort ($$.) Only when such a plan is developed and approved can you choose to move forward. There are also post-cleanup requirements. The legal minimum is OK; we will probably re-invest some $$ from the timber harvest to do a further cleanup.

Our neighbors recently did about a 50% cut. Their property looks very nice-- plenty of cover for animals, etc. and more light now for better tree growth. In comparison, our property in many respects looks like a jungle.

 

[LD48750]

I was in your situation years ago.
Needed some way to manage brush (for lack of a better word) other then burning.
I bought a Jinma 8" chipper because it was 1) cheap, 2) would run from my low power tractor, & 3) because I didn't KNOW what I wanted or needed.

I have had it for 7 years now & couldn't tell you how much stuff I have run through it along with what friends that borrowed it.
Yes, it has on occasion broke in one way or another but never anything I consider serious.

I even use it to clean up after splitting wood. Just rake up bark & splinters & pitch them through the chipper along with leaves, vines, twigs, & anything else that is in the pile.
Chips get given away, blown into the woods, & used as fill or ground cover.

I never thought I would use it as much as I do being just a residential homeowner with no business to support but I do.

Oh... I also heat with wood so I USUALLY only chip the smaller stuff but 8" rotten logs that are no good for firewood get chipped along with small stumps & like I said, anything else.
You will not regret getting AT LEAST an 8" chipper.

 

[plowhog]

Looks like the 8" model is less than $500 more (including a higher shipping cost) than the 6" model. Might have to pull the trigger on that one.

Y'all are really good at spending other people's money ....

Question-- I have a *lot* of downed wood from a bark beetle tree infestation/die off a few years ago. Acres of the stuff. Is there a big difference between chipping old dried out wood vs. newly cut and green?

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Looks like the 8" model is less than $500 more (including a higher shipping cost) than the 6" model. Might have to pull the trigger on that one.

Y'all are really good at spending other people's money ....

Question-- I have a *lot* of downed wood from a bark beetle tree infestation/die off a few years ago. Acres of the stuff. Is there a big difference between chipping old dried out wood vs. newly cut and green?

Yep. Dead wood is tougher to chip.