DarkBlack
Elite Member
…says the guy who posts every 5 minutesOh no... now you've started a whole "tape vs dope" debate, that'll take us through the next 3 pages.![]()

…says the guy who posts every 5 minutesOh no... now you've started a whole "tape vs dope" debate, that'll take us through the next 3 pages.![]()
I would use J B Weld ! I've had good experience with it on my 1946 Willys CJ-2A Jeep repairing the front Head Bolt that got stripped. It comes out like cast iron ! If it is drilled right into the whole block - I would try it even inside the bore hole. If it doesn't pan out and provide the same finish in the cylinder then I would junk it.I had the dealer install a new engine in my Kubota L4740 when it spun a bearing
In order to get the new engine from Kubota, they required the dealer to drill the block
Now I would like to rebuild this engine and am wondering what it would take to repair the drill hole
See pics
What is the concern with sleeving if into the cylinder?
How far down, from the top, is the hole drilled? If it is like halfway down, outside of the combustion chamber and below ring travel, why not just JB Weld it and give it a good honing, as long as nothing passes over it other than the piston skirt?Looking into cost of sleeving it
I’m still waiting to hear what bearing spun that deemed it more economical to replace the whole engine. Main, rod, or cam? Just one bearing? There’s got to be associated damage resulting from, and causing the spun bearing. Over reved, no oil pressure?Jeesh, why bother? You have a spun bearing, AND now a hole in the block! The bearing itself would be expensive to fix, and sleeving an engine is not cheap either. ---- Unless you are doing it yourself just to see if you can, then tear it apart and have fun!