Repairing MF35 Utility Hydraulics

[PatrickS2222]

Sorry for the delay - bit busy! :confused2:

Seems the answer on those studs is somewhat unclear - looking through Sparex & Bepco online catalogues - neither show studs for 35/35X, only for 135 & similar.
However, Google finds several parts suppliers who quote the same dimensions of stud as suits 135 etc (2x 9/16 x 3" UNF & 2x 9/16 x 4" UNF - 5 Euro ea) applicable to 35 series tractors.
Note: 35 series use 3" diameter cylinder; this was raised to 3&1/8" for 135 & related models. The cylinder diameter being larger in the later tractors seems plausible as the same hydraulic plate assembly was fitted to all models up to MF188 tractors.
I'm reasonably confident that using normal grade 5 or similar studs would be Ok - if the rear is too heavy to lift, our 135 will lift the front up instead. Possibly the pressure relief valve needs attention! We know to be cautious if in any doubt when lifting something - usually with crane attachment.
Another possible explanation is that the strength of the hollow studs may have been a little conservative, or they fatigue with age and tension over the decades.
Best of luck! :thumbsup:

 

[shaeff]

Sorry for the delay - bit busy! :confused2:

Seems the answer on those studs is somewhat unclear - looking through Sparex & Bepco online catalogues - neither show studs for 35/35X, only for 135 & similar.
However, Google finds several parts suppliers who quote the same dimensions of stud as suits 135 etc (2x 9/16 x 3" UNF & 2x 9/16 x 4" UNF - 5 Euro ea) applicable to 35 series tractors.
Note: 35 series use 3" diameter cylinder; this was raised to 3&1/8" for 135 & related models. The cylinder diameter being larger in the later tractors seems plausible as the same hydraulic plate assembly was fitted to all models up to MF188 tractors.
I'm reasonably confident that using normal grade 5 or similar studs would be Ok - if the rear is too heavy to lift, our 135 will lift the front up instead. Possibly the pressure relief valve needs attention! We know to be cautious if in any doubt when lifting something - usually with crane attachment.
Another possible explanation is that the strength of the hollow studs may have been a little conservative, or they fatigue with age and tension over the decades.
Best of luck! :thumbsup:

That's about the best I could find as well. I don't plan on overloading the hitch, but then again, most don't plan something like that. Maybe I'll see what Grade 5 studs I can find. Thanks, Patrick!

 

[PatrickS2222]

No trouble at all, glad to help if I can!

One further point:
I just noticed, while looking for something else, another site showed an aftermarket replacement 3" cylinder and described 1/2"UNC threads
Massey Ferguson 35 35x 65 765 Hydraulic Lift Cylinder 3

Just would be a good idea to ensure yours still has the original cylinder (or a replacement with UNF threads, but also ensure the diameter).

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hi Shaeff, Any progress? I'm hoping to hear it's back together and working well!

 

[shaeff]

Not yet, still waiting on my parts to arrive at the MF dealer. Once I get those, I'll begin to reassemble the hydraulic pump, drop it in, then put the rest of the tractor back together and fill the case with oil. I'm hoping that I get the parts before the weekend, as I'll have some time to work on the tractor both Saturday and Sunday. I'd love to get the rear end assembly at least partly put back together!

I also need to drill out the broken studs from the lift cylinder and check the mating surface for flatness. Shona13 gave me some tips for that, I just need to see if I can find a machine shop in my area that won't charge me a life's savings to do the work.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Yep, onward and upward.
BTW, What diameter and thread are they, or can you not ascertain that until you remove them?
(midnight here, and got to work tomorrow)

 

[shaeff]

Not quite sure yet, as I'm uncertain if both ends of the studs are the same pitch, as for the diameter of the actual stud, I'll be putting a caliper on one this weekend.

'Night!

 

[PatrickS2222]

Yep, literally "burning the midnight oil" here ha ha.
We're a dedicated bunch - we must be!
Cheers.

 

[shaeff]

I put a caliper on the studs, they are 1/2". Cylinder is 3". Upon closer inspection, I may replace the cylinder- the rear of the mounting area is not quite flat, likely from when the studs snapped. Oh well, one more thing to add to the list!

 

[PatrickS2222]

Yeah, its probably better to renew it if it's severely distorted, if it's only minor it could simply be resurfaced. I'm pretty sure they're cast iron, so if it is severe it stands a good chance though of being cracked somewhere or other. I don't know how costly they are - never had to buy one. :scratchchin:

I wonder if you can indeed fit the 3&1/8 diameter 135-148ish cylinder & piston? Finding the piston for it (new) may be fun - both Sparex and Bepco supply 3" pistons for 35s but neither do 3&1/8 for 135&c. I notice 165-188 (and a lot of newer models) use a 3&3/8 cylinder and pistons and seals are available from both! It all depends on the spacings for the mounting studs, their diameter (simply drilling and retapping to 9/16" would solve that issue), and whether the larger cylinder will physically fit.
Would give your 3PT lift some muscle though! :thumbsup: