Replacement windows from big box store or lumber yard

[Country Geek]

As a home remodeler, I replace windows fairly often for clients. You can go with wood, vinyl or metal. I like metal the best because of how smooth it is. Vinyl has an edge over metal for efficiency, but it's really too small to make a difference in my opinion, and the ease of how metal opens over vinyl is huge. Wood windows are always going to require maintenance, and even the most expensive ones rot and lose their paint at different rates depending on their exposure.

What about metal-clad wood? My experience with them has been good but overall what do you think of them?

I like them because they are wood on the inside, which is the appearance I want, but the metal seems to protect the exterior really well. I had them put in to replace wood windows on a large south-facing wall, the harsh sun and weather had made those window start to bubble and rot after only a few years.

 

[Walkin Horse]

This was a local news topic about a year ago.

Glare from energy-efficient windows can melt siding, vehicles :: WRAL.com

Maybe even set my brush pile on fire without a permit.

 

[JDgreen227]

What about metal-clad wood? My experience with them has been good but overall what do you think of them?

I like them because they are wood on the inside, which is the appearance I want, but the metal seems to protect the exterior really well. I had them put in to replace wood windows on a large south-facing wall, the harsh sun and weather had made those window start to bubble and rot after only a few years.[/QUOTE

As I noted in an earlier post, my aluminum cladded Anderson 400 series have a serious issue with condensation on the wood inner frames and trim...it is really severe and bad enough to mildew and bubble off the varnish on the wood.

 

[Country Geek]

As I noted in an earlier post, my aluminum cladded Anderson 400 series have a serious issue with condensation on the wood inner frames and trim...it is really severe and bad enough to mildew and bubble off the varnish on the wood.

Haven't seen that with my (Pella) metal-clad windows, which are now well over 10 years old. But I'll be on the lookout for it now!

 

[GBOUTDOORS]

So much depends on how long you intend to live in the house...as a former carpenter by trade I installed thousands of windows. The original part of my personal home has Anderson basic quality double hung wood windows installed in in 1976...the sills are badly rotted and all 14 need replacing. My addition was built in 2002-2003 and all the Anderson 400 series casements (14 each) are like new...the real issue with wood windows and doors is that no matter how good the quality may be when new, condensation is a HUGE factor on how long they actually last. My 400 series windows and slider doors have an issue with condensation because winters here can be bitterly cold, and the inner window frames are aluminum which creates condensation. PM me if you want details.

Condensation on the inside of a window only shows that it is doing its job keeping the cold out. The reason for the condensation is way to much moisture in the home for some reason . Do a search online about moisture control and you will see what I mean .

As for Andersen windows they do not have a metal frame on any of their units. They are wood, vinyl clad or their new composite material.

 

[kco]

Can you just replace the glass?

All the seals of our then 32-year old home were leaking when we moved in 11 years ago. They had moisture and dirt between the panes but the wood frames we good. The local window store came out and measured all the windows, ordered sealed glass panes and installed them for a very reasonable price. They removed the outside 3/4" wood strips to take the windows out and cut new strips. As EddieWalker recommends, they put double-sided tape on the new glass panes. They peeled back just enough of the vinyl tape covering on the inside face of the tape strip so it was accessible once they put the window in the house frame. They removed the tape by carefully pulling it out between the inner house wood surface and the glass. Here are some photos:





EddieWalker, I'm curious about your statement regarding reflective glass. Our new windows have some kind of one-way reflective glass on one of the double panes. It is not a coating, and is not noticeable except it is very slightly darker than ordinary glass. I specified we wanted the windows designed to KEEP HEAT OUT in the summer. We find them very effective. They just replaced the living room windows the first day. It was sunny and warm, and we immediately noticed a big reduction in heat.

In the summer we often enjoy cool early mornings on the deck on the east side of the house. When the sun reflects off second storey windows it can generate enough heat that one needs to move, even though 15 to 20 feet from that window. The coating seems very effective and did not add a lot to the glass cost.

 

[caver]

I did replacement windows for a living for many years. Tell me what you have (double hung, slider, etc) (wood, metal) (pics would help) and I'll give you some tips on replacements and buying them.

Wood horizontal sliders about 50x50 give or take a few inches.

 

[caver]

I wouldn't be spending a pile on windows for an old house.

They are all difficult to open and one on the front has a rotten frame in one area on the bottom.
Some of them I need to replace but may not do all of them. The screens are shot too.

 

[KennyG]

So much depends on how long you intend to live in the house...as a former carpenter by trade I installed thousands of windows. The original part of my personal home has Anderson basic quality double hung wood windows installed in in 1976...the sills are badly rotted and all 14 need replacing. My addition was built in 2002-2003 and all the Anderson 400 series casements (14 each) are like new...the real issue with wood windows and doors is that no matter how good the quality may be when new, condensation is a HUGE factor on how long they actually last. My 400 series windows and slider doors have an issue with condensation because winters here can be bitterly cold, and the inner window frames are aluminum which creates condensation. PM me if you want details.

My house was also built in the mid-70's. It originally had Andersen casements, some of which were deteriorating. My contractor said the problem was poor original installation but they still lasted 35 years. I installed new Andersen 400 casements. About 20 windows (1 to 4 units wide) and two sliding doors - close to $20K (gulp) - and I'm very happy with them. I'm not seeing any condensation issues but I have whole house ventilation and only have a limited amount of humidification.

 

[JamesHW]

I was planning on replacing the 1920's double hung windows on my bungalow with a Pella product that you install in the original opening that does not require taking the frame out, but I had a change of heart.

1) The current windows are solid and still functional and other than sash weights that need rehanging, paint and a few broken panes they are still almost as good as the day they were installed.

2) What really needs to be replaced are the old aluminum 1950's era storm windows as they are at the end of their functional life.

3) It will be a major boost in my equity when I sell to not have spent a lot of money (storm window replacement put aside).

4) If I replace the windows and just remove the 1950's storms, I will probably just break even on energy savings

Obviously with sash weight cavities are leaky energy wise, but with the storms closed tight it isn't that bad. I am a fresh air fiend and will open windows during the day when the temps get above 50-60. If I ever get around to building that very tight & energy efficient barn home, a method of introducing fresh air will be paramount in my plans. So a somewhat leaky house for me is an ok compromise.

Double hung windows are a pain to clean and the new windows that tilt in are a real attraction, but if the on an older house if original windows are of good quality and decent condition they should be considered to be kept. The original way double hung windows were used of course was that upper and lower sections would be opened to allow heat to escape the house in the pre AC days (often awnings were part of the equation). If the existing windows are really shot then replacing is in the cards, but whether to go expensive or not on a planned sale needs more info to offer advice. Getting a good, experienced realtor or 3 in to look at the house and recommend what will bring the best ROI before spending a lot of money might not be a bad idea. Of course this is a Rural property so your mileage may vary.

In my case I am going to just replace the storm windows with a better quality modern storm that looks good on an older house and does not stand out like the 1950 aluminum ones. Fortunately I have had a lot of practice over the years re-glazing windows, so finishing up on getting the old windows up to snuff is a good DIY/equity builder exercise.

 

[newbury]

I had Window World put mine in. All weird sizes, etc. They did a great job, cleaned up and hauled the old ones off and the price was "extremely" competitive.

I second Window World. I had them replace windows in 3 of my homes and never had a problem. Cheaper for them to do it than to do it myself. Only $189 per window no matter what size and all double pane windows. The cheapest model has special features like double hung, safety latches to lock the window slightly open, etc.

All places try to upsell you but just tell them you want the special $189 and you will get a quality, good looking window with a good installation.

One tenant broke a window 3 years after installation and they came out and replaced it free.

I just did major renovations on a rental property so my son and family could move into it and I had about a dozen windows replaced. The "prime" contractor was/is a friend of my son's and he recommended Window World. They installed them for less than I could buy them from the big box stores. Plus they were careful with the ones they removed and I'm reusing them in my workshop in Mississippi.

 

[sld]

We just replaced all of ours with vinyl casements from Champion. They replaced wood Pella's and the difference is very noticeable.

Can't believe how quiet they are and heating and cooling bills have gone down. I took the day off when they were installed to supervise each one and they did a very good job. Pretty happy 2 years later...so far.

 

[JDgreen227]

We just replaced all of ours with vinyl casements from Champion. They replaced wood Pella's and the difference is very noticeable.

Can't believe how quiet they are and heating and cooling bills have gone down. I took the day off when they were installed to supervise each one and they did a very good job. Pretty happy 2 years later...so far.

Query here...please define what quiet means as regards a window. Having a complete hearing loss, I wonder what that means.

 

[Don H]

Big Box stores put their window contract out for bid every few years. So the window you buy from them today might not be the one they stock when you need parts. Many low bid window manufacturers don't last long, again problems getting parts. I'd go with a company that's been around for many years. Buy direct or though a distributor, make sure they have a good warranty and hope the company will be around for the next 30 years.

When I built my house I put in Andersen windows, they are now 28 years old. I've had to replace a few balancers and one sash.

 

[KennyG]

Query here...please define what quiet means as regards a window. Having a complete hearing loss, I wonder what that means.

My next door neighbor shoots skeet and, once in a while, a black powder musket. With my Andersens closed, I can't hear it.

 

[Sprinklerman]

I got my windows from Lansing , they are a distributor , a friend of mine works there , they were made by Simonton , They are replacement windows . 12 windows , $ 2900.00 ( contractor price) It took me alone 5 hours to install alone , and another day to wrap the outside trim . Estimates to install were $ 9000 to $ 14,000 .

 

[EddieWalker]

Can you just replace the glass?

All the seals of our then 32-year old home were leaking when we moved in 11 years ago. They had moisture and dirt between the panes but the wood frames we good. The local window store came out and measured all the windows, ordered sealed glass panes and installed them for a very reasonable price. They removed the outside 3/4" wood strips to take the windows out and cut new strips. As EddieWalker recommends, they put double-sided tape on the new glass panes. They peeled back just enough of the vinyl tape covering on the inside face of the tape strip so it was accessible once they put the window in the house frame. They removed the tape by carefully pulling it out between the inner house wood surface and the glass. Here are some photos:

View attachment 417044

View attachment 417045

EddieWalker, I'm curious about your statement regarding reflective glass. Our new windows have some kind of one-way reflective glass on one of the double panes. It is not a coating, and is not noticeable except it is very slightly darker than ordinary glass. I specified we wanted the windows designed to KEEP HEAT OUT in the summer. We find them very effective. They just replaced the living room windows the first day. It was sunny and warm, and we immediately noticed a big reduction in heat.

In the summer we often enjoy cool early mornings on the deck on the east side of the house. When the sun reflects off second storey windows it can generate enough heat that one needs to move, even though 15 to 20 feet from that window. The coating seems very effective and did not add a lot to the glass cost.

Are you asking if it's good? Yes, but it's pretty standard on every window I've installed. There are extra coatings that some specialty stores try to add on to the cost of the window that you will never notice. A decent window will come with everything needed to make it pass all the energy requirements out there. Then there are the bonus things that will not improve anything.

Eddie

 

[kco]

Thanks, Eddie. Yes, I was wondering if some options are good. I'm not sure what we got, but just one of the two panes had it, and it just works one way. We did not want windows like those ones in office buildings that look like mirrors. Whatever glass they used keeps heat due to sunlight out much better than plain glass. As noted above, they were not much more expensive than all plain glass.

We were lucky that our window frames are all sound and of simple construction. And we were very pleased with the local business that did the work. They seemed very diligent in sealing the new windows. In fact, on one of them the helper broke the shiny protective cover (that is removed so the tape sticks to the wood) when removing it after installing the glass in the frame. Some of the glass was stuck to the frame and it was a chore to get the glass back out. But they did it, cleaned everything, and reinstalled the whole thing with new tape. It's really nice to have diligent contractors.

 

[TnAndy]

I got my windows from Lansing , they are a distributor , a friend of mine works there , they were made by Simonton , They are replacement windows . 12 windows , $ 2900.00 ( contractor price) It took me alone 5 hours to install alone , and another day to wrap the outside trim . Estimates to install were $ 9000 to $ 14,000 .

Exactly. And Simonton makes a very good vinyl window. You probably had another couple hundred bucks in trim coil, caulk and insulation. So for two days labor, you 'made' 6 to 10 grand you didn't shell out. You normally make that at work ?

For the most part, especially if one has standard, wood, double hung windows, installation is not all that tricky. Wrapping the outside trim is probably the hardest part for folks not used to using (or having) a sheet metal brake, and while that makes a much neater, more professional looking finish (IMHO), it is not a requirement. What is does is make the exterior nearly maintenance free, but if you don't mind painting, you can skip that part.

I worked for a window installation company for several years, and used to cringe at the prices they would charge people (and they had no standard price....it was however much the salesman could extract from the homeowner) knowing what they had in the window and my labor cost to install it. I later went out on my own and charged $60/window labor over the cost of the window and other materials, and made a dang good living for many years doing so.

If you want to save thousands (and I mean THOUSANDS, as above) and not do the job yourself, go find an aluminum/vinyl supply place that also sells windows to contractors like Sprinklerman did, and get the names of a couple of small contractors. Call them for LABOR only estimates (you'll likely find they will install them for under 100/ea even today), have THEM come measure ( I always preferred to work off my own measurements), you buy the windows/materials, and they come put them in.

 

[TnAndy]

Thanks, Eddie. Yes, I was wondering if some options are good. I'm not sure what we got, but just one of the two panes had it, and it just works one way. We did not want windows like those ones in office buildings that look like mirrors. Whatever glass they used keeps heat due to sunlight out much better than plain glass. As noted above, they were not much more expensive than all plain glass.

It is called LowE glass in the window industry. Stands for low emissive glass. The glass is manufactured with iron particles in the glass, or it is added later as a surface coating, and it reflects radiant heat....either outward in summer due to sunlight, or inward in window due to your heating source. Almost all high end windows, new or replacement, will include it standard. Some lower end replacements, it will be an option over standard glass, simply so they have an option to up-sell, and over price, their window.

It is not a highly reflective glass like mirror glass....you will notice a slight tint to it over normal glass, or if you get to one side of the window, you can sometimes see more of a mirror effect if they used the surface coat method, but mostly you will not notice the difference. Good stuff. Everything I've ever read on it suggests it makes a window 30% or so more efficient, which, when you consider a window is mostly a huge thermal hole-in-the-wall, means you probably ought to have it.