Retaining wall question

[RobertN]

Anchor recomends cutting blocks to keep your running bond. However, in the Anchor book I have, they show the solid block... From thier book:
Step-1 Proper installation of the Anchor reetaining wall requires that running bond be maintained. Running bond occurs when the blocks are centered over the vertical joints of the previous course. This adds to wall stability.

Step-2 Any wall that is not straight will eventaully run off bond. When this happens, skip a block position, and place the next block where it is back in bond. Measure the remaining gap, and cut a block to fit.

Setp-3 Once the partial unit is in place, adhere with a concrete adhesive. Partial units should not be less than 5"(five inches) and should not be placed atop each other. If the gap is larger than the length of one block, divide the measurement by two and put two partial units in place.

The small wedge you show would not be affect, and would affect the stability of a large wall. Since you are using the open center blocks, it may be best to order at least some solid core blocks for cutting and using for this purpose.

Too, try contacting Anchor direct. You might also check out thier web page; they have pretty good info there.

 

[CTyler]

Thanks everyone for your replies.
This is in no specific order...

I understand why the batter gets off but it only has to be off by about 2" and the edge of the hole starts to show up. I can see now that this block would be good for straight runs and 90 deg corners. The solid block would be better/easier anyway for this curve.

The thing I kinda liked about this block was the rock being packed into the holes providing additional shear strength. I will give Anchor a call today and see if there are any issues mixing the blocks. Wouldn't think so but want to be sure. Besides the other side of the house will be getting a small garden wall about 2' tall. So the extra block will get used anyway.

I thought about cheating the blocks up a little bit by knocking the corners off a tad. However would this affect the strength of the wall? Remember this has to be 7 1/2' tall for the first ~9-10 linear feet.

I must have missed the part about a 5" minimum or it didn't register the glue part did. Something in the back of my head kept saying there had to be a minimum size.

Yea, I'm going to just work on the one side of the wall from the house out until the first row of steps are in place. After putting a few blocks down at the other end the adjustment factor/realization set in...dohhh!

Will also get the landscape fabric in there.

Thanks
Chris

 

[tracdoc]

Hi Chris,

Just a quick thought on mixing the cored with the solid Anchor blocks. As I recall, the solid blocks are 6" in height, while the cored blocks are 8" tall. The website URL I put in my post on this thread yesterday will take you to the specs for each type to confirm. Also, I don't know about color availability/match of the two types. You might be able to camouflage a 2" height difference by running a full course of one type. A color mis-match would be harder to conceal.

Keep us posted...

 

[HammerFour]

Make sure the block you are using is designed for that height of wall. The pavestone block we used was only recommended for a 3' wall so we built ours in steps.
Front flowerbed wall project

 

[CTyler]

Hi, yes that block can go much higher than 7 1/2'.

I called Watkins, the place I bought the block from, and asked to speak with one of thier engineers. He stated that there wasn't a minimum size for the partial block. Perhaps this is specific to the block being used? He said you could cheat a little knocking the corners down a little and it would not affect stability.

I think I'll have more piece of mind using a larger block piece to correct the batter. The center structure of the block may well be 2 1/2". Will measure it. So with a 5" piece this would split the difference. Guess I'll have to fiddle with it and see what works.

fwiw...My Wife thinks I'm being over critical about this like everything else I do.

 

[CTyler]

I went and re-read the installation manual and specs etc.. and sure enough it says 5" minimum partial block. Gives me a warm fuzzy about the "engineer?" I spoke with.

Thanks again everyone for your input.